N frame in .22 Hornet

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I wish. Be interesting. It would not be hard to line a N frame barrel to 22 and then bore a cylinder out as large as possible and then install fixed inserts reamed to 22 Hornet. Modifying the extractor would be the hard part. I just checked and the max over all lenght possible using a 44 cylinder would be 1.762 and the 22 Hornet OAL is 1.723

The 22 jet is 1.58 in OAL and takes a K frame 357 length cylinder. a 44 mag is 1.61 OAL

But all that is kind of mute in face of the fact that unless you stay under about 1800 fps with the 22 jet or Harvey K Chuck (I have both) you get throat erosion and it you don't keep the chambers real clean back out problems above those velocities

So, although interesting a 22 Hornet revolver won't do anything the Jet (or K Chuck) wouldn't

As far as weight goes. Fitting a 22 barrel and a Jet cylinder to a alloy K frame would be an interesting project IF cylinders for model 53s were not so valuable.
 
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steelslaver said:
I wish. Be interesting. It would not be hard to line a N frame barrel to 22 and then bore a cylinder out as large as possible and then install fixed inserts reamed to 22 Hornet. Modifying the extractor would be the hard part. I just checked and the max over all lenght possible using a 44 cylinder would be 1.762 and the 22 Hornet OAL is 1.723

The 22 jet is 1.58 in OAL and takes a K frame 357 length cylinder. a 44 mag is 1.61 OAL

But all that is kind of mute in face of the fact that unless you stay under about 1800 fps with the 22 jet or Harvey K Chuck (I have both) you get throat erosion and it you don't keep the chambers real clean back out problems above those velocities

So, although interesting a 22 Hornet revolver won't do anything the Jet (or K Chuck) wouldn't

As far as weight goes. Fitting a 22 barrel and a Jet cylinder to a alloy K frame would be an interesting project IF cylinders for model 53s were not so valuable.
Click to expand...

I do have a 53 Remjet. I just figured the N frame 22 LR would be a ton of weight for basically zero recoil. Wouldn’t feel a thing.
Even the jet is negligible.
 
steelslaver said:
I wish. Be interesting. It would not be hard to line a N frame barrel to 22 and then bore a cylinder out as large as possible and then install fixed inserts reamed to 22 Hornet. Modifying the extractor would be the hard part. I just checked and the max over all lenght possible using a 44 cylinder would be 1.762 and the 22 Hornet OAL is 1.723

The 22 jet is 1.58 in OAL and takes a K frame 357 length cylinder. a 44 mag is 1.61 OAL

But all that is kind of mute in face of the fact that unless you stay under about 1800 fps with the 22 jet or Harvey K Chuck (I have both) you get throat erosion and it you don't keep the chambers real clean back out problems above those velocities

So, although interesting a 22 Hornet revolver won't do anything the Jet (or K Chuck) wouldn't

As far as weight goes. Fitting a 22 barrel and a Jet cylinder to a alloy K frame would be an interesting project IF cylinders for model 53s were not so valuable.
Click to expand...

I have the 22 jet inserts.
I’d need a longer extractor rod I guess.
Or could I use a 17 cylinder extractor and use an N frame extractor rod?
How would that work?
 
K-Chuk

For those that want a high speed 22 with no recoil, try this!
zOfYJFe.jpg

The gun with the scope is a 17-6 that Andy Horvath converted to center fire and chambered to a K-Chuk for me! The K-Chuk cartridge started life as a 22 Hornet! The other gun pictured is a k-Chuk built by the Bennett Gun Works.
jcelect
 
I've seen the star extractors for sale that have not yet been cut for the case heads. Probably at Numrich Gun Parts but don't remember if they're N frame size.
 
I went and looked they have them for both N frames and K frames.

I would be a ways from tone of these to one that fit

Get it to fit cylinder. then file teeth till it would carry up. Then mark and cut it for each chamber. Transfer punch from chamber side and then drill pilot hole so you could line up an end mill near the size of the cartridge base. It would make for a long tedious day

UxDUFYI.jpg
 
steelslaver said:
I went and looked they have them for both N frames and K frames.

I would be a ways from tone of these to one that fit

Get it to fit cylinder. then file teeth till it would carry up. Then mark and cut it for each chamber. Transfer punch from chamber side and then drill pilot hole so you could line up an end mill near the size of the cartridge base. It would make for a long tedious day

UxDUFYI.jpg
Click to expand...
This was supposed to be fun…
 
22 hornet base .298 rim .350

357 mag base .379 rim .440

A 22 hornet would drop right though a 357 extractor chamber and throat

But here is a thought. Sleeve a 44 mag length cylinder then ream to 22 Hornet. Fit a 357 extractor but, turn the arms off it to where the the inside edges of rims would have been Then mill about .10 more to 1/2 thickness, creating a ledge on remaining portion of extractor. Then mill the extractor recess in cylinder out to about to where the outside of a 357 would have sit. This will remove material that use to meet tips of arms edge. Now you have an empty groove about .440, then on the inside the step. Then make spring steel rings the thickness of the extractor that sit in the created groove where arms used to be and the material was machined away. Have a 1/2 thickness step that sits over the step down area on the extractor. Bore 6 .297 holes in ring that are spaced to match chambers. Place a slit in outside of each hole. You should be able to press a 22 Hornet into them and fill the ring with 6 22 hornets. They will act as thicker heavy duty kind of full moon clips that fully in circle the base of the case and will head space them. Extraction is via the step in extractor pressing up on step in ring

Could be done. To many other 1/2 done projects right now

X frame cylinder bored out for sleeves to make 30 Herrett revolver.

J frame model 36 tore apart to fit a J frame magnum cylinder in 32 H&R so I can end up with a steel J frame 327. Got to make cylinder fit yoke, then trim a tiny bit off the front of cylinder so it gaps with a very short shanked 32 barrel

A 29-3 with the barrel off a , 357 cylinder reamed to 44 special with a 3 1/2" barrel all ready for final assembly.

A Brazilian soaking in Ed's red before I rip it apart to fit the 1" OD 45 barrel I have turned and threaded, with a Aristocrat rib ready to go on.

Plus, honey do s , camping, creek floating etc
 
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Figure this is blasphemy on this forum but here goes. Taurus offers a Raging Hornet 8 shot,or at least the did at one time.
 
You can also buy a model 53 and ream it to 22 Saber Jet or Super Jet or improved JET, (basically all the same) which is a Jet with most of the case wall taper blown out straight and have more case volume that a 22 Hornet and more velocity and more burned forcing cones.

Or simply take a center fire K frame, mount a K22 barrel on it take a K22 cylinder, ream it to 22 Harvey Kay Chuck. A 22 Hornet shortened .10 with the case walls blown out. I will lend you the reamer.

Lots of options for as hot rod 22 center fire revolver.

I have a 22 Jet, a 22 Harvey Kay Chuck, a Xp100 in 221 Fireball and a 1911 frame with a 22 TCM barrel. I also made a cylinder that fires 22 TCM which makes me nervous.

Hot rod 22 hand guns are fun and noisy
 
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Not to deviate from the question asked, but would you be mostly handloading or using off-the-shelf ammunition?

If the former, I may suggest that you consider chambering for the 224-32 FA. Compared to 22 Hornet, it's a bit more compact with more capacity, higher PSI, greater velocity, thicker and more durable 327 federal brass.

224-32 FA Data Sheet

I'd also note, 327 brass necked to .256 is great. It's like a modern, improved 25-20. Loaded with the 60 gr JSP are a personal favorite.
 
I have seen a couple of 1917 army models converted to different calibers. One was converted to a hornet. I think the cylinder sleeves stuck out past the cylinder because the cylinder was to short. All in all looked to have been some good craftsmanship. But 30 years will play tricks on the memory.
 
I know you are set on a S&W. May I suggest buying a used Raging Hornet by Taurus or a 10" T/C Contender. It will be a whole lot less money to find out if you like the Hornet handgun idea!

I own a 10" Contender and a friend owns a Super 14" Contender. Accuracy ran about minute of pop can (1.5 MOA) at 200 yards with 3 power scope (off a rest or bipod). This was using highly controlled hand loads. Hornady's 35 grain V-Max ammo was the best factory ammo we ever shot, and Contender accuracy runs 3.5+ MOA

The original batch of Raging Hornets were made to very fine tolerances and yet sub-MOA groups couldn't be had until consistent neck wall thickness issues were dealt with. I have Nosler 22 Hornet brass that maintains the .010 to .0105 neck wall thickness necessary to achieve the 1 MOA Group size. I could find this brass at Midway as an exclusive. I haven't heard of any after pandemic!

I'd hate to see you go to all that trouble and find your gun was below your expectations!

Ivan
 
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