Need a Brake Job.... *Update*

[Skeeziks]

I need to get the brakes done on a 2002 Crown Vic.
Should I go to a brake specialist, like Mienekke? Or the Ford dealership where I get it serviced (it's a real nice one...they have always done right by me and are about as honest as a dealership could be.)
Who would be the more expensive?

What are your thoughts on this?
=======================================
Update:

Got them done today at Ford. The rotors were scored badly enough that he would not turn them (would be too thin after turning and could warp.)

> New rotors- 106.22
> Front pads - 66.63
>>>. Labor - 118.95
------------------------------
> Total OTD - $309.31

 

[Beemer-mark]

Not to bad mount places that specialize in mufflers, brakes, etc but they have been the subject of more lawsuits then you can shake a stick at. As a fairly decent mechanic (but no longer a professional mechanic) brake jobs are about as simple as it gets. I still do mine own on all my motorcycles and (fairly new) cars. Parts run (depending) on the average of $60 to $110 for most cars. 2 hours labor @ $75 an hour is a total of $260.

Dealers are good for the "complicated" and "warranty" stuff, they have the training and tools. For brakes I'd check out Sears or a AAA garage. Check the BBB also.

 

[oldman45]

Do it yourself and save a ton. I do mine in less than an hour. Cost less than $60 counting rotors being turned.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

IMO, the right brake pads are more important than who does the work. Beware of lifetime brake warranties. They tend to be made of harder material which can be hard on your rotors and noisy. I have Toyotas and will only use OEM parts.

 

[snowman]

I agree that brake jobs are, as a rule, one of the simplest maintenance procedures on a vehicle. I always do them myself, and recommend this to anyone who has a little time, a few tools, and some mechanical aptitude. If you don't have these, I would recommend a reputable brake shop like Midas or Monro or such. Dealers charge way too much, in my view. A Ford dealer nearby charges $75 just to bring a vehicle in the shop to diagnose a problem or do a repair or an inspection. I won't oblige them.

The caution about what pads to buy, should you do the job yourself, is an important one. Unfortunately I can't remember what kind I've bought(been awhile since I've had to do brakes).

Andy

 

[Skeeziks]

Do it yourself and save a ton. I do mine in less than an hour. Cost less than $60 counting rotors being turned.

Thanks guys....I really appreciate the help. But I have to ask...how in the world am I supposed to turn my own rotors?

 

[oldman45]

Thanks guys....I really appreciate the help. But I have to ask...how in the world am I supposed to turn my own rotors?

You take the rotors off. Carry them to an auto parts store and they turn them for about $4 each.

 

[snowman]

Unless the rotors are warped, scored, or worn too thin, they will just need to be scratched up a little with some coarse emery cloth. However, it is best to have a brake shop check them for runout and wear -there is generally a pretty small charge to do that.

Andy


P.S. oldman45 beat me to the submit key

 

[Skeeziks]

You take the rotors off. Carry them to an auto parts store and they turn them for about $4 each.

Oh.......never thought of that.

~ Thanks, Oldman45.

 

[servmgr64]

Take it to your dealer where you already have it serviced. I assume they do a good job on your regular maintenance & are competitevely priced on your normal service. Make sure they use the OEM brake pads not their lower priced aftermarket type pads. The OEM pads will probably be 90 to 100 just for parts but they will last longer & be quieter. In my shop we only use the originals customer pays a little more but is happier when it is all done.
Scott

 

[saturner1]

Unless they are warped really bad or have deep gouges in them, I wouldn't touch the rotors. I'm sure there will be some who disagree. Since the Ford has really thick rotors and will not have but maybe one or two brake jobs in its life, either way would be fine. I just don't turn them on my small old cars. If they need turning I just buy new ones from China.

 

[Skeeziks]

I probably should've mentioned this: even though it's an '02 it only has 65,000 miles and this will be the first time it has had any brake work. It's now to the point where I hear a low grinding noise just as it is coming to a stop. The pedal goes down pretty far and if I really needed to bring her to a stop in a hurry the turnout wouldn't be good (if ya' know what I mean.)

 

[venomballistics]

do it yourself dude .. if ever there was an entry point into gear heading beyond an oil change .. brakes are it.
you will need parts of course, a 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive socket set a good sized C clamp ... and a jack.
pull the tire and look at the caliper ... yeah buddy its just two bolts and that C clamp will work with an old pad to compress the piston in the caliper ....
pulling the wheel is the hard part ... seriously


Oh yeah .. and when your done .. pump the brakes a few times cause the peddle will go to the floor a few times while the calipers re space themselves.

 

[CJ]

Find a friend who knows how to do brakes. Talk him into helping and showing you how to do brakes with you supplying the parts. Reward him with a steak dinner or a case of beer or whatever he likes. You'll still come out ahead versus the dealer and as a bonus now you know how to do your brake jobs yourself. They're not complicated to do, but it's always nicer to have some one with experience show you how it's done.

 

[venomballistics]

Find a friend who knows how to do brakes. Talk him into helping and showing you how to do brakes with you supplying the parts. Reward him with a steak dinner or a case of beer or whatever he likes. You'll still come out ahead versus the dealer and as a bonus now you know how to do your brake jobs yourself. They're not complicated to do, but it's always nicer to have some one with experience show you how it's done.

and dont forget to mention that unique sheepish feeling as you say "thats all?!?"
but then Im kinda gifted and may take my skills fore-granted. A 725 HP dyno slip kinda has that effect

 

[ladder13]

I probably should've mentioned this: even though it's an '02 it only has 65,000 miles and this will be the first time it has had any brake work. It's now to the point where I hear a low grinding noise just as it is coming to a stop. The pedal goes down pretty far and if I really needed to bring her to a stop in a hurry the turnout wouldn't be good (if ya' know what I mean.)

Your rotors are scoring, you'll need turning at minimum, don't wait too much longer.

 

[m1gunner]

Brakes are bread and butter work for local tire shops. If you can't do it yourself, look to the guy you buy your tires from.

I always get better service from small independent tire shops, the one where the owner often greets you with grease on his hands.

Chain repair places and dealerships have higher overhead, and the employees are pushed to produce high priced repair orders.

Doing brakes takes about the same time as an oil change and chassis lube.

 

[Skeeziks]

Brakes are bread and butter work for local tire shops. If you can't do it yourself, look to the guy you buy your tires from.

I just had a new set of Michelins put on at Sam's Club. How about them?

 

[mkk41]

A Ford dealership would most likely be your MOST expensive option. Lots of BS about who's pads are the best. Ya usually can't go wrong with OEM. I've had good results with Allied/Bendix and genuine GM. I do my own brakes , but I have a local (right around the corner) shop turn the rotors. Most NAPAs have a small machine shop and turn rotors for about $15ea -$25pr. Most small independant shops have a brake drum/rotor lathe. Imported rotors have become so cheap , many shops don't even turn discs anymore , they make a few more easy bucks replacing them.

NEVER put new pads on a worn rotor. New pads are FLAT and need a fresh FLAT surface on the rotor so the pads break in and bed properly. Otherwise , the rotors might warp and/or the pads will wear out much faster. Stopping power is greatly reduced too.

Job is fairly easy , doing one side at a time remove wheel/tire , blow off excess dirt/dust. Remove caliper and old pads. Probably need a big Allen or Torx bit. Press piston back into caliper with big C-clamp. Pop off spindle nut dust cap. Remove cotter pin. Remove spindle nut and washer. Pull off disc. Check yer wheel bearings at this time and repack with fresh suitable grease. Tighten the spindle nut till it contacts (no lateral rotor movement) , then tighten to the next cotter pin hole. Use a new cotter pin.
After everything is back together , I like to remove all the fluid in the resevior and refill with fresh fluid. Pump brake pedal slowly till ya get good pedal , and then recheck fluid level.

 

[m1gunner]

I just had a new set of Michelins put on at Sam's Club. How about them?

Don't know your Sam's club, are their mechanics Industry certified (whatever the alphabet orginazition is called that does it these days)?

As to new pads on non-turned rotors, if the rotors aren't damaged, just normal wear, stick the pads on and let it ride. I have seen mechanics who wouldn't put new rotors on without turning them first, this will destroy some rotor brands.

On my personal vehicles, the rotors and drums are never turned for brake jobs. I do check them for thickness, though.