Need a Model 39-2 gunsmith

[old&slow]

I picked up a model 39-2 a few days ago. I probably got skinned on the deal. But, I had one back in the early 70's that I let go and this was the first one I've seen in a while.

Anyway, it won't go "bang". The hammer keeps catching on half cock. I know my way around a 1911's and S&W revolvers and know people that I can go to if it's over my head.
But, don't know much about all the moving parts in this DA/SA
or know folks that work on them.

I've been thinking about sending it back to S&W or to Novak.
They are the only two I can think of off the top of my head that would know and have worked on the old S&W 39-2.

Any recommendations or suggestions ?

 

[Texas Roots]

Novak would be my first choice.

 

[jsbethel]

You could try Frank Smith - LSG, Mfg|Gun Parts|Warranty|Gunsmithing

 

[Gunhacker]

I had what sounds like the exact same problem with my 1076 and sent it back to S&W, they replaced the hammer mainspring and it's working like a champ. Had I known something like that was the cause, I would have done that myself.

If you can do it or find some that can, try replacing the mainspring first. Shipping a gun anywhere is NOT cheap, and with a gun that old, S&W customer service will likely not be willing to send
a pre-paid shipping tag for it.

It's not difficult at all, and not unlike removing the mainspring housing from a 1911. Hammer down, remove grip panels, drive out the pin at the bottom rear of the grip frame while holding onto the bottom of the frame back strap, as will be under some slight tension from the mainspring. Pull the housing/back strap away from the frame and downward, and you'll find the mainspring and end cup (plunger). Slide the old one off of the hammer strut, slide new one on, reassemble and hopefully it's fixed.

 

[W.E.G.]

What do you mean by "catching on half cock."

What exactly does that mean?

I'd never seen a 39-2 before and I took it substantially apart on the first day I owned it.

You can do a lot of good if you take your time and use a can of Break Free and a can of compressed air.

I'll bet dollars to donuts your frame is all gunked-up with goo.

Field-strip it.
Drown the frame in Break Free.
Work all the moving parts.
Blast the goo loose with compressed air.

I bet that "fixes" whatever stuck-mechanism problems are at work here.

You can't break anything.

It just seems silly to mail the gun off to have somebody clean it for you.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...65962-model-39s-aim-european-police-dept.html

If you need to replace a part, most parts can still be had for the 39-2 at Numrich Gun Parts Corp. - The World's Largest Supplier of Firearms Parts and Accessories

 

[old&slow]

Thanks for the info.
I have taken the gun completely apart and cleaned everything with WD-40 and Breakfree.
I'm familiar with the workings of the 1911, Revolvers and some plastic guns but have never messed with the DA/SA autos.

It looks like the Disconnector is rather worn and I'm wondering if that may be the problem. I hadn't thought about a main spring problem , but that's easy enough to fix.

Mainly interested in if anyone else has had this problem. I wasn't really sure if I was going to try and figure out the workings of the 39 ,, start throwing parts at it ,, or send it to a gunsmith that's familiar with the old gun and have it fixed and maybe refinished.
I think it's a really cool gun and want to get it back to 100% so I can play with it..
Thanks again for all the information..

 

[M29since14]

I've never torn into my 39s so I can't be much help to you, but replacing the mainspring should not be a big problem. You can't do any harm with that, since you can always put the old spring back in the gun if it comes to that.

If you look at the spring that is in the gun now, does it show any signs of being "tuned?" I have heard of people clipping coils off springs, thinking they are doing a trigger job. It could be something as simple as that.

Sorry I can't be more helpful but let us know what you find out. Always good to hear the end of this kind of story. If you have to send the gun somewhere, sending it to S&W would probably be the most logical place if you are trying to make it 100% factory.

 

[old&slow]

M29, the mainspring looks factory , finished on both ends, doesn't appear to have been clipped.

I'll try and post something when I find out what the problem is.
I'm not in a big hurry and if I can't figure it out and send it away
it will probably be over the winter.

 

[kfields]

Where in Ohio are you? I had a gunsmith in Vandalia, Ohio work on my 39-2. He fixed it and at a reasonable price too!
Kim

 

[Gunhacker]

M29, the mainspring looks factory , finished on both ends, doesn't appear to have been clipped.

I'll try and post something when I find out what the problem is.
I'm not in a big hurry and if I can't figure it out and send it away
it will probably be over the winter.

Did you swap it out anyway? When I looked at mine on the 1076, which I bought used a few months ago, the spring was factory, so I didn't give it a second thought seeing that it wasn't messed with.

I spent hours going over the sear, drawbar & disconector operation thinking that perhaps the sear was not being kept far enough away from the hammer to not catch the half cock notch while it was on its way to the firing pin. After I finally sent it back to S&W after admitting defeat, I was totally surprised when I got it back from S&W repair and saw the work order indicated a new mainspring.

It cost me $109.00 to send it back via overnight air (a requirement by Fed-Ex), but the good news is S&W did not charge for the labor or part.

 

[old&slow]

Did you swap it out anyway? When I looked at mine on the 1076, which I bought used a few months ago, the spring was factory, so I didn't give it a second thought seeing that it wasn't messed with.

I spent hours going over the sear, drawbar & disconector operation thinking that perhaps the sear was not being kept far enough away from the hammer to not catch the half cock notch while it was on its way to the firing pin. After I finally sent it back to S&W after admitting defeat, I was totally surprised when I got it back from S&W repair and saw the work order indicated a new mainspring.

It cost me $109.00 to send it back via overnight air (a requirement by Fed-Ex), but the good news is S&W did not charge for the labor or part.

Ditto ,, sounds like my story.
And No I haven't started swapping parts yet. But I think, when I start, The first thing I'll try is a new mainspring, THANKS for the info. I've had it apart a couple times and haven't been able to figure out WHY the darn thing keeps catching on half cock.
The bottom of the disconnector is rather worn and I was wondering if it wasn't pressing the drawbar / sear far enough
out of the way.
And If I hold my finger on the very edge of the trigger when I pull it , it sometime will go all the way forward and hit the firing pin.
But bottom line I've been trying to figure out HOW it works ,,, and chasing my tail for the past day or two.

I live in central Ohio. And there is a gunsmith in Columbus I'm going to talk to and see if he has worked on 39's.
My first thought was Wayne Novak because he's been around for a while and if I remember right he use to work on the old S&W autos. I've been to his shop and talked to him ,, he seemed like a really good guy.. A well known gunsmith that has been around for a while, for an gun that has been around for a while.

Again THANKS for the information. sometime you just can't see the forest for the trees and you need someone to bounce ideas / information off of you ...

 

[Armyphotog]

Why don't you call Smith & Wesson. Seems like they had a recall on those a long time ago that had some kind of issue with something happening on half cock? Maybe you can get it fixed for free?

 

[old&slow]

Update,
Gunhacker & M29 Thanks a Bunch !! Replaced the factory main spring with a Wolff Factory Standard main spring and the 39 seems to be working like a champ. While I was in inside I stoned and polished a couple places that looked like they needed it.
But, I'm sure the main spring was the problem.

THANKS Again,, I would have been chasing my tail all winter and never have figured out it was a weak main spring...

 

[M29since14]

All kudos go to Gunhacker, but thanks for letting us know how it worked out. I have an old 39 or two that should probably have their springs replaced. I may as well order them and get to it.

 

[Gunhacker]

Update,
Gunhacker & M29 Thanks a Bunch !! Replaced the factory main spring with a Wolff Factory Standard main spring and the 39 seems to be working like a champ. While I was in inside I stoned and polished a couple places that looked like they needed it.
But, I'm sure the main spring was the problem.

THANKS Again,, I would have been chasing my tail all winter and never have figured out it was a weak main spring...

That's great news!! And that makes two of us... when I got my 1076 back from S&W and saw that all they did was replace the mainspring, my jaw dropped.

I spent hours and hours inspecting the lock work, pulling it apart looking for worn parts, etc. Like you said... chasing my tail.

I've always thought a weak mainspring manifests itself as light firing pin strikes resulting in a failure to fire. The only thing I can think of is there is a timing factor with the speed of the hammer fall and the sear reset... too slow of a fall and the sear catches the half cock notch.

Maybe that's a reason why S&W did away with the half cock notch on the 3rd gen's ??

Anyway, glad I was able to help out.

 

[old&slow]

That's great news!! And that makes two of us... when I got my 1076 back from S&W and saw that all they did was replace the mainspring, my jaw dropped.

I spent hours and hours inspecting the lock work, pulling it apart looking for worn parts, etc. Like you said... chasing my tail.

I've always thought a weak mainspring manifests itself as light firing pin strikes resulting in a failure to fire. The only thing I can think of is there is a timing factor with the speed of the hammer fall and the sear reset... too slow of a fall and the sear catches the half cock notch.

Maybe that's a reason why S&W did away with the half cock notch on the 3rd gen's ??

Anyway, glad I was able to help out.

I did the same thing..
I've even put lighter main springs in some of my target guns and I've never had a problem like this before..
Oh well, learn something new every day..

M29 - I ordered the spring direct from Wolff took about a week or so to get here. The spring was all of $4.29.
I also ordered a couple other springs that I needed.
Shipping was $4.

 

[olwogo]

not having the problem...yet! But excellent information for someone who does most of his own work! Thanks!