Need help dating a rusty old revolver

I know it'a eating you up but if you can, do the 50/50 thing and
let it wait for a month before you really clean it. Shake the
container a couple times a week. You will be absolutely amazed
how nice it will be if you do that before cleaning it.

You have a real treasure there. Take the time to care for it right.

Be sure and post pictures when you get done. We love seeing
old goodies like this brought back to life.

And Welcome Aboard.
 
Last edited:
Not really adding anything that hasn't been said but the acetone atf mix when left for a good duration of time will soften that rust really well.

It will be like it just melted off.
Patience is a virtue.
BTW I'm in Mass and if your close by the first rounds can be on me....pun intended.
I'm betting a bunch here would also help you two out.
 
Great advice here, but I'll add that Flitz/Simichrome or any other polish are abrasives, though mild ones. They WILL remove bluing, every time. I know this through unfortunate personal experience. The dark stuff you see on a cloth when you use it is bluing.

Any use on a blued gun should be very minimal and extremely gentle--even at that I'll never use it again.
 
Hi all, haven't been messing with the gun for a while due to life getting in the way, but I recently double bagged the gun in Ziplocs and dumped it with ATF and acetone again. I'm gonna let her really soak this time. She's been in for two days, just added some acetone. It's in a plastic container. Will be updating with pictures soon! And as Oscar101 said, I really do appreciate all the wisdom and advice from all of you!
 
It's getting there, but I'd give it another week or two in the ATF/acetone mix. It's not like you can "oversoak" it. ;) Just give it a little shake every day to keep things moving along.

When the last of the surface rust is gone ,including inside the chambers & barrel, then it's time to move onto the next step.
 
Last edited:
Very informative thread!

Have you gentlemen heard of using molasses and water to remove rust? I've done this with motorcycle parts; it is quite gentle. Usual method is mix 10% molasses to 90% water and submerge parts for a month or more. I was wondering if this would work on firearms and would it affect bluing?

We cycle guys know the atf/acetone mix as a penetrating oil. Used liberally with maybe some heat-cycling to help draw it into threads is the shizzle for getting decades-abandoned bikes apart.
 
Which ever solution one uses, the real secret is constant agitation, in a case tumbler, back of a pickup, or the best, a vibrating cleaning machine.

ATF, good old tranny fluid:

None of the other products have or will ever have the years and level of research and engineering to remove crud and/or rust, keep spotless, and sustain the life of a $4000+ and higher, piece of high tech equipment; your automatic transmission! It's also the least expensive product.
 
I been watching this thread since the beginning. I give the op credit for being patient and doing this restoration the right way. Almost there. That little gun is a beauty and well worth the effort. It will pay off in the end with a beautiful semi-rare well functioning piece from the past. Good job!!!!!
 
When done cleaning you can polish with Semichrome, Flitz polish or Mother's Mag Wheel polish, and then wax with Renaissance Wax.

Any crevices that still have rust showing can be cleaned out with the above polishes using a tooth brush. Cut the bristles shorter if too flexible. If you have a stubborn rust spot like inside the cyl chambers or barrel bore, you can resort to 0000 bronze wool (no steel wool) wrapped around a handgun barrel cleaning brush and rod using the polish.

Great work so far!
 
And will end up with a fun revolver to shoot that is likely worth well over $1000.

The OP has done a nice job so far, and thanks to all of the members here who have offered their advice.

I buy and renovate houses and all I ever find is tax returns from 1981 and old bed parts in the attic...

Robert
 
Last edited:
Looks like you're at the oil+bronze wool stage. Lite touch, but looking good. A good scrubbing of the bore and chambers with a bronze bore brush+oil is also indicated.

Then just a wipe off of the oil and take her to the range . :)
 
In case it wasn't mentioned above, I'll just throw out the tip that you can use dental floss, round toothpicks (or better, the slightly heavier hors d'oeuvre skewers that are about 1/8 inch in diameter and about for or five inches long -- available at just about any supermarket) and a stiff-bristle toothbrush to work resistant bits of grime out of corners and crevices. The floss is particularly good for cleaning gunk out of the space between the barrel shank and the top frame of the revolver. You can use the wooden picks almost as a pinpoint oiler if you want to put some solvent right on an exact spot that needs more work. It's not necessary to flood the whole surface with fluid when you are working on a tiny spot of rust.
 
Love seeing the progress, and the OP's patience most would have taken the poor thing to a wire wheel thereby destroying any remaining original finish. I thought everyone would enjoy seeing a few of his work in progress photos together. Great work !
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200321_172858.jpg
    IMG_20200321_172858.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 111
  • IMG_20200323_191906.jpg
    IMG_20200323_191906.jpg
    85.2 KB · Views: 99
  • IMG_20200626_230426.jpg
    IMG_20200626_230426.jpg
    123.5 KB · Views: 103
  • IMG_20200731_222624.jpg
    IMG_20200731_222624.jpg
    78.6 KB · Views: 110

Latest posts

Back
Top