It's definitely looking better. But remember to do nothing else until you get those grips off the gun.
Need help dating a rusty old revolver
- Thread starter xfabianromerox
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It's definitely looking better. But remember to do nothing else until you get those grips off the gun.
Very happy for you.
You will have a project to be proud of when you are done.
Take those grips off and do the acetone ATF bath. Do not try and skip it.
I hope you and your dad get to shoot it when done. You'll then have a great heirloom piece.
You will have a project to be proud of when you are done.
Take those grips off and do the acetone ATF bath. Do not try and skip it.
I hope you and your dad get to shoot it when done. You'll then have a great heirloom piece.
OP
xfabianromerox
Member
Well, here's what we've done so far with the acetone/ATF mix soak. Still waiting on bluing polish and the bronze wool. Let me know what you guys think the next step is!
Put it back in the ATF mix for few more days. It doesn't look like you submerged it.
As said above, take the grips off and let it sit and soak in a tub of the mix.
As said above, take the grips off and let it sit and soak in a tub of the mix.
The reason the ATF and acetone solution does not take off the bluing is because it doesn't have the aforementioned acids in it, therefore it needs weeks to a month to remove the rust.
Solution for rust removal and freeing rusted parts
As shown below, the scientific test proven top solution is not an off the shelf rust or corrosion product, and in fact exceeds them all. And off the shelf products are far from equally effective. Kano Kroil tops them all in testing and some are just a flat waste of money.
Just a few representative tested products quoted in test results including the hands down winner: 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Cruddy guns are a piece of cake to clean with this solution.
Average load (Lbs) to release a rusted/corroded test bolt and price per fluid ounce:
W/O penetrant.................516 pounds … $0.00
WD-40.............................238 pounds … $0.25
PBBlaster ....................... 214 pounds … $0.35
LiquidWrench ..................127 pounds … $0.21
KanoKroil ........................106 pounds*… $0.75
ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix.....53 pounds**.. $0.10
* I'm not aware of KanoKroil removing bluing but may remove patina.
**Note: 53 lbs. was the load required to release the pre-corroded testing device. Recognize the ATF will not remove bluing.
SOURCE: April/May 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP scientific test of penetrating products to remove rust and measure the force required to loosen rusted-solid test devices. 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP - Google Search
They are all inferior to (well down the list in test results as can be seen above), and more expensive than ATF, good old tranny fluid. None of the other products have or will ever have the years and level of research and engineering to remove crud and/or rust, keep spotless, and sustain the life of a $4000+ and higher, piece of high tech equipment; your automatic transmission! It's also the least expensive product.
So if you have two parts cruddy or corroded together solid and want them apart, the only thing better than ATF, again as test proven, is a 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone. Nothing approaches its efficacy and performance, nothing. Just soak and agitate, period!
I became a believer when given a Sharps percussion carbine relic to "fix"; you know, a relic relative to firearms is a gun dug out of the dirt after years and years, a corroded chunk of steel, as in a bunch of parts frozen solid. That Sharps is now operational with new springs and wood, and the owner shoots it regularly. Factory stampings not completely rusted away are now readable again. It was soaked for two months in a sealed container that was also agitated by being driven around in the back of a pickup. The only thing that would speed it up is an electro vibrator.
Acetone has very 'light ends', in plain English that means it evaporates readily as we know. And will need replenishing unless the part with soaking solution is in a sealed container. A piece of schedule 40, 4" plastic drain conduit with end caps glued on both ends, long enough for the barreled action. Fill the container as full as possible to eliminate air space and evaporation. I also made the tube a little longer than needed, so after cutting off the cap to check progress, if not soaked long enough I could glue on another cap. Once it's sealed, confirm it won't leak.
The guy I restored it for actually bent the lever trying to work the action open when it was frozen/rusted solid! The action didn't budge. So I still marvel at how smooth it operates after the soaking treatment. The metal is so clean, a plain bare gunmetal gray. Like when Naval jelly is used to remove surface rust.
Then I fixed the bent lever.
Solution for rust removal and freeing rusted parts
As shown below, the scientific test proven top solution is not an off the shelf rust or corrosion product, and in fact exceeds them all. And off the shelf products are far from equally effective. Kano Kroil tops them all in testing and some are just a flat waste of money.
Just a few representative tested products quoted in test results including the hands down winner: 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Cruddy guns are a piece of cake to clean with this solution.
Average load (Lbs) to release a rusted/corroded test bolt and price per fluid ounce:
W/O penetrant.................516 pounds … $0.00
WD-40.............................238 pounds … $0.25
PBBlaster ....................... 214 pounds … $0.35
LiquidWrench ..................127 pounds … $0.21
KanoKroil ........................106 pounds*… $0.75
ATF-Acetone 50/50 mix.....53 pounds**.. $0.10
* I'm not aware of KanoKroil removing bluing but may remove patina.
**Note: 53 lbs. was the load required to release the pre-corroded testing device. Recognize the ATF will not remove bluing.
SOURCE: April/May 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP scientific test of penetrating products to remove rust and measure the force required to loosen rusted-solid test devices. 2007 edition of MACHINIST'S WORKSHOP - Google Search
They are all inferior to (well down the list in test results as can be seen above), and more expensive than ATF, good old tranny fluid. None of the other products have or will ever have the years and level of research and engineering to remove crud and/or rust, keep spotless, and sustain the life of a $4000+ and higher, piece of high tech equipment; your automatic transmission! It's also the least expensive product.
So if you have two parts cruddy or corroded together solid and want them apart, the only thing better than ATF, again as test proven, is a 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone. Nothing approaches its efficacy and performance, nothing. Just soak and agitate, period!
I became a believer when given a Sharps percussion carbine relic to "fix"; you know, a relic relative to firearms is a gun dug out of the dirt after years and years, a corroded chunk of steel, as in a bunch of parts frozen solid. That Sharps is now operational with new springs and wood, and the owner shoots it regularly. Factory stampings not completely rusted away are now readable again. It was soaked for two months in a sealed container that was also agitated by being driven around in the back of a pickup. The only thing that would speed it up is an electro vibrator.
Acetone has very 'light ends', in plain English that means it evaporates readily as we know. And will need replenishing unless the part with soaking solution is in a sealed container. A piece of schedule 40, 4" plastic drain conduit with end caps glued on both ends, long enough for the barreled action. Fill the container as full as possible to eliminate air space and evaporation. I also made the tube a little longer than needed, so after cutting off the cap to check progress, if not soaked long enough I could glue on another cap. Once it's sealed, confirm it won't leak.
The guy I restored it for actually bent the lever trying to work the action open when it was frozen/rusted solid! The action didn't budge. So I still marvel at how smooth it operates after the soaking treatment. The metal is so clean, a plain bare gunmetal gray. Like when Naval jelly is used to remove surface rust.
Then I fixed the bent lever.
I certainly recommend following Hondo44's advice.
What he said. Jim is one of the most knowledgeable persons on this forum.
jringo8769
Member
Do not restore this
Simply soaking it in the correct solution will clean away the rust...
i would suggest removing the grips first gently and I would not suggest rubbing on the finish with wd40...
Less you mess with the finish the better it will look in the end
Listening to Hondo44 would be my best recommendation
Pitting will still be pitting but gun should clean up well
Very nice old gun you found
God Bless and thank you for sharing it with us
John
Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
Simply soaking it in the correct solution will clean away the rust...
i would suggest removing the grips first gently and I would not suggest rubbing on the finish with wd40...
Less you mess with the finish the better it will look in the end
Listening to Hondo44 would be my best recommendation
Pitting will still be pitting but gun should clean up well
Very nice old gun you found
God Bless and thank you for sharing it with us
John
Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
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bulletslap
Member
My advice to add the the long ATF/Acetone soak in a covered vessel given above is spend some time researching how to disassemble the revolver, as soon after the exterior is cleaned up according to Hondo's advice, you are going to clean the interior parts.
Be careful following advice on YouTube, some of those guys are hacks. A gentleman that goes by Gunblue490 or something similar has a good S&W disassembly/reassembly video. Also consider the purchase of the Kuhnhausen S&W revolver shop manual.
Be careful following advice on YouTube, some of those guys are hacks. A gentleman that goes by Gunblue490 or something similar has a good S&W disassembly/reassembly video. Also consider the purchase of the Kuhnhausen S&W revolver shop manual.
The side-plate screws look to be in very good condition.
If you decide to remove the side plate at some point, do NOT use a regular screwdriver. Doing so will damage them.
Make sure to use a proper gunsmith screwdriver that fits the screw correctly.
There are likely several YouTube videos that can walk you through this.
If you decide to remove the side plate at some point, do NOT use a regular screwdriver. Doing so will damage them.
Make sure to use a proper gunsmith screwdriver that fits the screw correctly.
There are likely several YouTube videos that can walk you through this.
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As bulletslap said, buy the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual.
I know it'a eating you up but if you can, do the 50/50 thing and
let it wait for a month before you really clean it. Shake the
container a couple times a week. You will be absolutely amazed
how nice it will be if you do that before cleaning it.
You have a real treasure there. Take the time to care for it right.
Be sure and post pictures when you get done. We love seeing
old goodies like this brought back to life.
And Welcome Aboard.
let it wait for a month before you really clean it. Shake the
container a couple times a week. You will be absolutely amazed
how nice it will be if you do that before cleaning it.
You have a real treasure there. Take the time to care for it right.
Be sure and post pictures when you get done. We love seeing
old goodies like this brought back to life.
And Welcome Aboard.
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Not really adding anything that hasn't been said but the acetone atf mix when left for a good duration of time will soften that rust really well.
It will be like it just melted off.
Patience is a virtue.
BTW I'm in Mass and if your close by the first rounds can be on me....pun intended.
I'm betting a bunch here would also help you two out.
It will be like it just melted off.
Patience is a virtue.
BTW I'm in Mass and if your close by the first rounds can be on me....pun intended.
I'm betting a bunch here would also help you two out.
Kenny D
Member
Love This Thread
This is one of the best threads I have ever seen. Love the way members took the time to help a young man restore an old treasure. Or maybe we have been cooped up too long and are needing something to do?!
This is one of the best threads I have ever seen. Love the way members took the time to help a young man restore an old treasure. Or maybe we have been cooped up too long and are needing something to do?!
The more you mess with the finish, the worse it is going to get. Soak it in oil, let the rust dissolve, gently clean it with an old tooth brush, and that's it. It would be a shame to destroy what is left of this cool old gun.
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Cooter Brown
Member
Great advice here, but I'll add that Flitz/Simichrome or any other polish are abrasives, though mild ones. They WILL remove bluing, every time. I know this through unfortunate personal experience. The dark stuff you see on a cloth when you use it is bluing.
Any use on a blued gun should be very minimal and extremely gentle--even at that I'll never use it again.
Any use on a blued gun should be very minimal and extremely gentle--even at that I'll never use it again.
OP
xfabianromerox
Member
Hi all, haven't been messing with the gun for a while due to life getting in the way, but I recently double bagged the gun in Ziplocs and dumped it with ATF and acetone again. I'm gonna let her really soak this time. She's been in for two days, just added some acetone. It's in a plastic container. Will be updating with pictures soon! And as Oscar101 said, I really do appreciate all the wisdom and advice from all of you!
Glad you did and will do on updating.
Kudos to you.
We definitely look forward to the end result.
And shoot that puppy....no nevermind I'm a dog guy.
Kudos to you.
We definitely look forward to the end result.
And shoot that puppy....no nevermind I'm a dog guy.
OP
xfabianromerox
Member
Well, here's what she looks like after 5 days of soaking. Looks noticably cleaner and has more shine to it. Should I throw her back in? Or should I maybe start with the lube and polish?
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