Need help dating a rusty old revolver

[xfabianromerox]

Super fine bronze wool and oil. Let the oil soak for a time ,; the surface rust should give way to the bronze wool.

Bronze - not steel wool.

Do you mean drowning it like I did for the atf/acetone mix, or just drenching the rusty parts?

 

[xfabianromerox]

You definitely deserve the "MOST DISCIPLINED, MOST PATIENT, BEST NOVICE GUN RESCUE" award of all time!

You have achieved spectacular results so far. And instead of turning a $100 gun into a $50 gun like we see with nauseating occurrence on this forum, you've turned it into a $400 to $500 gun and more once completed!

I appreciate the kind words

 

[xfabianromerox]

Now that the metal is coming along long do some research on repairing the chip in the grip. Nice project you have there, one many of us are a little jealous of. At least I am.

Thank you! How would I fix that chip?

 

[xfabianromerox]

Bluing is nothing more than controlled rusting of steel, so yes many rust removers will dissolve bluing. Any mixtures that contains acid will quickly remove bluing, like Naval Jelly. I have not used Evaporust, but it supposedly does not contain any acids. I do use a product called Metal Rescue that does not contain any acid, but will remove bluing. Bottom line is test any product first before using it on a valuable gun or parts. Make sure the bluing will not be removed first.

The video is fine, but all these products remove rust on the product's schedule. I have been restoring doubleguns for years and find that the supposedly worst product, Metal Rescue, works wonders on barrels. Many were rusted inside and out and no other product cleaned them to the degree that Metal Rescue did. Problem is that you need to leave the barrel submerged for 24 to 48 hours since that is the length of time suggested on the label.

Here is a barrel set half done.

I use a PVC pipe with a cap glued on one end. One gallon of Metal Rescue is added ad the barrel is submerged and forgotten. After a few days, I flip it over to do the other half and rinse. Great product if used as recommended. Nice thing about non-acidic rust removers is that you can leave the part submerged for a week without any damage to the steel or soldered joints.

I really don't wanna mess up the bluing. Maybe I'll look at some evaporust videos on YouTube tomorrow and see what cleaners do the least damage to the bluing.

 

[xfabianromerox]

That gun is far nicer than when you found it! I never thought it would come back to life like it has.
I have torn down/ renovated many homes and apartments. In the St. Louis area we found an 1860 .44 Colt revolver with 3 loaded and 3 fired chambers in a wall. It was wrapped in a greasy rag which was as hard as stone. We soaked it in diesel fuel until it softened enough to get off. The gun was in a condition similar to yours. We gave it to the homeowner and HE GAVE IT TO THE POLICE because he thought it may have been used in a murder or something, I don't know. I was just sick about it but it wasn't mine. I am happy your gun has a better outcome!

Very cool story! I'm sure this sort of thing happens here and there.

 

[delcrossv]

First, I'd pass on chemical cleaners like Evaporust at this point.

Do you mean drowning it like I did for the atf/acetone mix, or just drenching the rusty parts?

No. Just a layer of oil (smear it on with your fingers) and a light touch with the bronze wool.

Once you got the outside done, do the same with the bore and chambers with a bronze brush alternating with oily patches from a cleaning kit (.32). You'll probably have to do many passes. Run a oily patch, run the brush a bunch of times, clean with another few patches, repeat.

When the patches are no longer orange/dirty, finish with a couple of dry patches, shine a light down the bore and report condition. There's bore polishing compounds that can clean things up if necessary.

When those are where you want them, we can get started on a detail strip.

 

[Muley Gil]

I'll add to the above post. I like to use a bronze brush that is one caliber LARGER, especially when cleaning an extremely dirty or rusty firearm. In this case, use a .38 brush. Clean the chambers of the cylinder first, since they are larger than the bore. For extreme cases, you can chuck a straight cleaning rod in a drill and operate at low speeds.

 

[xfabianromerox]

I think you need to fire it up some with your father.

For sure! We wanted to, but the rounds we got we're too long. Does do they have to be s&w .32 long to fit?

 

[Muley Gil]

For sure! We wanted to, but the rounds we got we're too long. Does do they have to be s&w .32 long to fit?

Either the .32 Long or the shorter .32 S&W.

 

[AlHunt]

I really don't wanna mess up the bluing. Maybe I'll look at some evaporust videos on YouTube tomorrow and see what cleaners do the least damage to the bluing.

I think you'll regret Evaporust. I use it and love it. I think it's a mistake on blued steel.

I just looked. About 3/4 of the way down this page:
Evapo-Rust Gallon

Q. Will Evapo-Rust remove bluing or other oxide finishes?

A. Yes, bluing and other oxide finishes are chemically similar to rust and will be readily removed with Evapo-Rust.

 

[murphydog]

For sure! We wanted to, but the rounds we got we're too long. Does do they have to be s&w .32 long to fit?

Great job so far!

.32 S & W Long should seat fully. There is a small chance you bought .32 H & R Magnum (longer than .32 Long) or .327 Federal Magnum (longer still) but the more likely explanation is the cylinder bores are dirty, or less likely out-of spec ammo. Try cleaning the cylinder really well first.

A definite "no" on Evapo-Rust or any similar products for the exterior. For something very safe, try Renaissance Pre-Lim and light pressure with a soft cloth.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner will remove rust without affecting the bluing. It also removes copper from gun bores.

 

[gordonrick]

OK where are the stock restoration guru's? That will be the next mission.