Need help restoring a New Century Hand Ejector 2nd Model

[SWproject]

Hello from Canada. I found this site while trying to locate parts for my late Great Grandfather's S&W "New Century" Hand Ejector 2nd Model. It's the revolver that he carried in the trenches as an Officer in WWI, and I recently inherited it as the only pistol shooter in the family. Trouble is, the revolver is in rough shape.

Somebody filed down the hammer nose, and it won't stay cocked for single action operation any more. I've been told that this is probably because the sears on the hammer and trigger are worn down. I've decided the best thing to do is to get my hands on a new hammer and a new trigger and then take the gun to a smith to install the new parts.

Since none of the major parts suppliers list parts for this gun, it's up to me to get them someplace.

I've done some research on the history of this model. It all started with the famous "Triple Lock", or Hand Ejector 1st model, and then S&W came up with the slightly simpler and $2 cheaper Hand Ejector 2nd model of which many like mine were made for the Canadian and British Armies chambered in .455 Webley.

The most promising lead I've come across is the interesting fact that when the United States entered WWI they began producing the "S&W hand ejector model of 1917" in .45 ACP because the automatic pistol contractors couldn't keep up with the Army's demand for 1911's.

A couple of sources online say that the 1917 revolver is the same as the Hand Ejector 2nd model.

If this is true, my project should be easy because there are plenty of parts around for the 1917.

Does anybody know if I can order the 1917 parts and they will be the same as on my Hand Ejector 2nd Model?

Thanks to anyone who can provide any help.

 

[SWproject]

Hello from Canada. I found this site while trying to locate parts for my late Great Grandfather's S&W "New Century" Hand Ejector 2nd Model. It's the revolver that he carried in the trenches as an Officer in WWI, and I recently inherited it as the only pistol shooter in the family. Trouble is, the revolver is in rough shape.

Somebody filed down the hammer nose, and it won't stay cocked for single action operation any more. I've been told that this is probably because the sears on the hammer and trigger are worn down. I've decided the best thing to do is to get my hands on a new hammer and a new trigger and then take the gun to a smith to install the new parts.

Since none of the major parts suppliers list parts for this gun, it's up to me to get them someplace.

I've done some research on the history of this model. It all started with the famous "Triple Lock", or Hand Ejector 1st model, and then S&W came up with the slightly simpler and $2 cheaper Hand Ejector 2nd model of which many like mine were made for the Canadian and British Armies chambered in .455 Webley.

The most promising lead I've come across is the interesting fact that when the United States entered WWI they began producing the "S&W hand ejector model of 1917" in .45 ACP because the automatic pistol contractors couldn't keep up with the Army's demand for 1911's.

A couple of sources online say that the 1917 revolver is the same as the Hand Ejector 2nd model.

If this is true, my project should be easy because there are plenty of parts around for the 1917.

Does anybody know if I can order the 1917 parts and they will be the same as on my Hand Ejector 2nd Model?

Thanks to anyone who can provide any help.

 

[2152hq]

Since you're going to have a 'smith install the 'new' hammer & trigger..I'd suggest before buying any parts, you take the gun to a reliable 'smith and have them take it apart and see if the hammer and/or trigger actually need replacing. The fireing pin is a replaceable part of the hammer itself. If the original hammer is useable, a new replacement fireing pin can be put back onto the original hammer.
1917 S&W parts should work OK in the 2ndModelHE .455 IIRC.
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The action not holding on single action may be nothing more than the single action notch in the hammer being full of metal filings and other asst. gunk from the removal of the fireing pin.
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I'm assuming the fireing pin was cut/filed off w/o disassembling the gun,,just with the hammer back on full cock probably (single action). All that junk drops into the action while the surgery is done and can cause the problem.
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I'd do some looking inside the action before parts buying. You may save yourself some considerable money.
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After a look inside, you can always go ahead and then buy what you need. Perhaps you'll only need one of the two major parts if they are indeed damaged or worn.
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A great gesture of you to restore the family heirloom too. All to often we hear of guns like this that get passed on to the yonger members of a family and then being mearly sold off quickly for pizza & beer money.
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SpringfieldSporters may have the parts if needed...
http://www.ssporters.com/Parts%20Listing%20Page.htm
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or Numrich Arms..
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/

 

[Coug45]

IIRC, the .455HEs 2nd models had the same inards s the triple lock. Fairly short DA, vice the long action of the other 2nd model HEs. I have a .455 2nd that was converted to .44 special (new barrel and cylinder), that when I first got, I couldn't figure out why the short DA. I then found it had the guts that looked like a triple locks (at least the X-rays of a triple lock in Roy's book). I don't know if a 1917 inards would work, but would likely need all inards swapped - if I'm right. If I'm wrong... then forget everything I just said

 

[SWproject]

Thanks to both of you for your replies. 2152hq's recommendation of letting a 'smith decide what parts need replacing certainly sounds like my best bet - I'm hoping your theory about filings falling down and gunking up the works turns out to be right!

The reason that I wanted to get my hands on parts beforehand is that my local gunsmith seemed less than thrilled to take on a project like this. All he could say was negatives like "Oh there won't be parts for that old thing", etc.

Thanks again for the input!

 

[jjones33]

I would be less than thrilled with a gunsmith that doesn't have a source for old gun parts.

Glad you got your g-grandfather's gun.

 

[Onomea]

In the States we have smiths who work on older revolvers, e.g., Dave Chicoine and Gene Williams, but I assume that exporting/importing from/to Canada/the US would be a lot of trouble. You might seek out collectors in Canada who could steer you to a good smith in country.

I think what I would do in your shoes is get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen’s The S&W Revolver; a Shop Manual and try to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the gun on my own. You’ll need proper tools tho, most especially a gunsmithing screwdriver set. Alternatively, if you look at the FAQ in the post-1945 section, page 4 or so, there is a description of how to take apart an S&W. If you got stuck, probably during reassembly, you could post questions in the Smithing section and get help. If you post photos as well, knowledgeable members could likely help you diagnose problems, too.

If 2152hq's surmise is correct, then all you would need a smith for is to put the new firing pin on the hammer, a very simple job for any smith.

Were it my great-grandfather’s gun, I would not let a less than enthusiastic smith work on the action.

I would also, given the gun's family history especially, not try to restore (if by that you mean refinish) the gun, but just try to get it back to excellent working condition. Any blemishes or scars on the gun's finish are well earned!

Please keep us informed -- it would be fun to follow your progress!