Need help with nickel K-frame

Checkpoint Charlie

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A local gun shop has an old S&W hand ejector in .38 special. It is nickel plated and in very rough shape but mechanically tight. It has a 5 inch barrel, it's a 5-screw, and has round, half-moon front sight. On the butt is the letter C, then a good inch of space, then a six digit number, 308246. Is the C part of the serial number? If so, it would date to mid 50's. If not, it looks like it would be a pre-war gun. Can someone clarify? Is a 5-inch nickel M&P rare or just uncommon? Thanks for your help.

Charlie
 
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For nearly all S & W revolvers nickel finishes were a small minority of production (.32/38 Double Action and Safety Hammerless seem to be exceptions). A general rule for most models is about 10% of production, but this is a guesstimate at best. This one sounds pretty worn.
 
"5" ins. are not commonly encountered. There have been books written on "rare". Rough nickel, what price? Grips? SB or RB? Pic is probably not possible. C should be correct in Sn.
 
Thanks to all for clarification. The asking price is $299. It is a square butt and definitely not the original grips, I think it had Pachmayr's on it.

Charlie
 
C277,555 – C314,031….…1954 – 56 (manufacture)
The problem with a nickel finish is that when it goes, it looks very ugly. But that doesn't affect its functionality as a shooter. If I wanted it, I'd probably try to get the seller to come down by $50-$75. Last year, I bought one similar to that (but pre-war) with a fairly nasty nickel finish (but with a pair of 1930s factory grips) for $225. I would have passed it by had it not had the factory grips.
 
Nickel should be marked N

If that revolver is factory nickel, it should be marked with an "N". Look at the s/n under the barrel, and on the grip. If there is no N, then it was plated sometime after manufacture.
 
...The problem with a nickel finish is that when it goes, it looks very ugly. But that doesn't affect its functionality as a shooter. ...
Agree, once nickel goes, it looks hideous. Besides, the description given includes "very rough shape".

Normally I would say "$300 for any K-Frame in good working order is a fair deal", but ... I don't really care for nickel even if it is perfect, so I would definitely pass on one in very rough shape. I would only consider it if I had some really specific need (keeping it in the truck, in the boat, or out in the barn, or possibly as a house gun if I didn't already have one). Even then, I would bargain for a lower price.
 
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