Need help with non slmith revolver

[reload4me2]

Wanted to get a 22 mag revolver for my wife (has neck problems and can't do much practice with her 686). Smith only makes a snubbie. Purchased my first Taurus: model 941 - 4 inch barrel - I am having issues with the gun. Joined a Taurus board - post below. After a few days I really have not gotten and suggestions that have helped. One reply mentioned ammo - but the ammo used was Federal, CCI and Winchester. Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to tract down some replacement springs at this time. The revolver is of small frame size, I would assume the firing pin spring on a large frame gun would be stouter, but don't know the dimensions of these side by side. Any help/suggestions appreciated

Post as follows:

New to taurus revolvers
After shooting about 20 rounds the cylinder really tightens up. The problem is unburned material or grit between undersurface of star and cylinder. The issue is how to stop this. Happens with several types of ammunition - some are worse than others - but all do it.
The star and cylinder have to be separating - however minutely, and I am figuring the spring/(s) [the bolt spring and or the extractor spring] is/are the issue.
I don't know enough about the physics of what transpires at powder ignition with respect to cylinder/star movement. It seems logical to think the cylinder and star would move toward the hammer and then forward and that the separation would occur then.
Either too strong an extractor spring or too weak a bolt spring would do this I think, but input would be appreciated.

 

[reload4me2]

Wanted to get a 22 mag revolver for my wife (has neck problems and can't do much practice with her 686). Smith only makes a snubbie. Purchased my first Taurus: model 941 - 4 inch barrel - I am having issues with the gun. Joined a Taurus board - post below. After a few days I really have not gotten and suggestions that have helped. One reply mentioned ammo - but the ammo used was Federal, CCI and Winchester. Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to tract down some replacement springs at this time. The revolver is of small frame size, I would assume the firing pin spring on a large frame gun would be stouter, but don't know the dimensions of these side by side. Any help/suggestions appreciated

Post as follows:

New to taurus revolvers
After shooting about 20 rounds the cylinder really tightens up. The problem is unburned material or grit between undersurface of star and cylinder. The issue is how to stop this. Happens with several types of ammunition - some are worse than others - but all do it.
The star and cylinder have to be separating - however minutely, and I am figuring the spring/(s) [the bolt spring and or the extractor spring] is/are the issue.
I don't know enough about the physics of what transpires at powder ignition with respect to cylinder/star movement. It seems logical to think the cylinder and star would move toward the hammer and then forward and that the separation would occur then.
Either too strong an extractor spring or too weak a bolt spring would do this I think, but input would be appreciated.

 

[reload4me2]

oopps - should be bolt spring not firing pin spring in first section of post

 

[Andy Taylor]

Send it back to Taurus. They should fix whatever the issue under warranty.

 

[Pisgah]

I've only dealt with 3 or 4 .22 magnum revolvers in my life, but many .22 lr revolvers, and,frankly, this has been pretty common with most of them, especially the magnums. There can be a lot of unburned powder and debris, and it all goes somewhere. I've just always made it a practice to briskly eject empty cases with the muzzle pointed up, and blow behind the star every now and again just to be sure no grains are lurking back there.

 

[john traveler]

+1 on Pisgah's comments. The .22 WRM cartridge was designed for rifle-length barrels. When pistols were added to the cartridge chambering, the powder charge was not changed. All .22 WRM chambered pistols I have seen showed this characteristic of accumulating unburned powder granules.

All I can suggest is you carry with you a toothbrush and clean under the extractor star every couple of cylinderfulls.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

Maybe the B/C gap is a little too snug.
Didn't they chamfer the old black powder cylinders so there would be less material for the residue to hang on to or was I dreaming?

 

[Pisgah]

Originally posted by Nicksterdemus:
Maybe the B/C gap is a little too snug.
Didn't they chamfer the old black powder cylinders so there would be less material for the residue to hang on to or was I dreaming?

Different problem altogether. This involves not fouling but unburned grains of powder making their way under the extractor star and binding up the works.

 

[Nicksterdemus]

Different problem altogether.

Granted, if indeed the extractor build-up is the problem. I was merely speculating that perhaps there was a different or another snake in the grass.
At any rate, nothing, not even the filthy 22 mag, should bind a sidearm in 20 rnds. I reckon that South American empire is building wheelguns too danged tight...

 

[Alk8944]

The problem is unburned material or grit between undersurface of star and cylinder. The issue is how to stop this.

reload,

You have answered your own question without recognizing it. It never ceases to amaze me how many on this and other forums attempt to respond to a question like this without first reading and understanding the question.

.22 WRM like virtually any cartridge used in revolvers does not completely burn the powder. When extracting the fired cases some of the partially burned grains will fall between the extractor and its recess in the cylinder. This pushes the extractor out of its recess by a few thousandths causing the binding since the cylinder is now longer than the space available in the frame. This will happen with any revolver and does not indicate there is any problem with the gun. It can happen on the first cylinder full and happens to any make of gun, contrary to snide remarks another poster made.

I will bet that when extracting the cases you are doing this with the muzzle pointed down. This is a common error and increases the likelyhood of powder grains falling on the back of the extractor. The first thing to do is raise the muzzle so it is straight up before pushing the extractor rod, and the second, as John Traveller said, is to carry an old toothbrush th brush off the back of the extractor and the recess whenever a little tightness is noticed. Carry a cleaning rod and a 6mm rifle brush too, to brush out the charge holes when you notice extraction starts to get a little difficult.

 

[1sgpierce]

I have had the same problem with every smith 22 magnum I had (J and K frames). There were even discussions about the problem in the gun magazines in the eighties. The only 22 mag load I never had trouble with was some winchester proof loads I got. It's the nature of the beast. I ended up carrying a tooth brush with me in the field to clean out the star every couple of cylinders or so. I finally gave up and went with the regular 22 LR because of the hassle

 

[reload4me2]

So a toothbrush, and a 6 mm brush are in order. My thanks to all.
I have to say it is fun to shoot and while the ammo is more expensive than 22LR, a lot cheaper than 38.
Dennis

 

[Jim Watson]

Include the habit of keeping the muzzle up when ejecting empties.

Unburnt powder under the extractor will bring ANY caliber DA revolver to a halt, and it is much liklier to get there when unloading than any form of blowby while shooting. A chamber brush to let rounds freely enter the chamber and a dry toothbrush to keep buildup from binding cylinder rotation are essential equipment for those of us shooting revolvers in action sports like IPSC and IDPA.