Need info on .22 Smith revolver

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I want to add a Smith .22 revolver to my modest collection and I know next to nothing about these guns. I know that I want the old style without the lock and at least a three inch barrel. I would love to get educated on the model numbers and input from those you have .22 revolvers. Thanks :)
 
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My advice is to prowl the local gun shows and gun shows and handle as many different models and bbl. lengths as you can.

The smaller "kit guns" are my personal favorites with the 2 inch round butts leading the pack. The larger K framed .22s, models 17,18, etc. are so accurate is scarey. All of them shoot better than I can. Check 'em out and start with the one you feel most comfortable with.

FAIR WARNING: The little boogers are addicting....you WILL wind up with more than one
 
The oldest ones are the tiny M frame "Ladysmiths". Next larger are the pre-war I frames in 6 and (rare) 4" barrels. The Kit Gun mentioned above is a J or small frame and can be found in blue, nickel and stainless and in 3 (currently produced in stainless), 4 and 6". The largest ones are the K or medium frame in 4 and 6"; currently made in a 4 and 6" stainless full lug version, the 617. They also recently made a run of blue 4 and 6" model 18s and 17s in the Classic series.
 
This is where i started out with the 22's. I got two S&W's a masterpiece & a police positive in 22lr and a colt officers revolver in 22lr then i went to the older H&R revolvers. My point is these can be addicting but in a fun way.
 
jsalas2

These are the ones that I like- model 34-1 and model 63. I have a 34-1 snub nose, very accurate and am looking for a model 63. I'm sure that others will add there favorites also. Just search the internet with the models that we are posting and make your decision from that. I found mine at my local gun range. They always have 2 or 3 in the shelves. Everyone is right about the addiction. Like you, I just wanted to add a .22revolver to my small collection. Now I'm looking for another, its only been a couple of months. Gotta have another one. Here is a pic of mine its a 1977 34-1 kit gun.
2012-10-04180510.jpg
 
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I recommend the Model 34. Mine is a -1. It is a J-frame, 4", square butt. It has a semi-target hammer, ajustable sights.

I just love mine.

Shown here with Pachmayr target grips.
 

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jsalas2

OK, guys, its time to show off our 22's. I really want to see them too. Thanks.
 
317 kit gun

I recently purchased one of their 317 3" kit guns with the internal lock. I love .22's and have quite a few. The idea of the lock of the lock is pure stupidity, but if you want the gun you have no choice. The gun is a beauty it weighs so little that you can't believe it. When its in your hand it weighs less than a toy gun. Anyway I took it out to the range and started shooting it at 15 yards, in the beginning it looked more like a shotgun pattern than pistol group. I shoot j-frames fairly often but this one was not so easy. The trigger pull was fine in both single action and double action, so it was not the trigger it was me. I kept at it paying attention to each and every shot and finally after about 500 or so rounds carefully shot the groups were slowly shrinking and looking more like the way I shoot. The only problem was it was shooting all the way to the right, I moved the rear sight all the way to the left and it was right on the money. I shot the gun quite a bit more figuring I was applying pressure with my thumb that caused the shots to move to the right and due to the extreme light weight and over time I would correct for this and be able to put the sight back in the middle. Well that never happened so I called S&W and spoke to someone in customer service. They said to send the gun back, and sent me a prepaid label. I recieved it back from them in about a week, the rear sight was back in the center and it shot exactly to the point of aim. They must have done someting to fix it but I don't know what.

Bottom line... its not a Pre Lock, its not Pinned and Recessed and its not a pre model anything, but it shoots great, weighs nothing, has never given me a problem with about 1500 rounds of all kins of ammo through it. It is one of the most fun guns I have ever shot.
 
Never say you have to settle for one with the lock. I found a 3" 317 ANIB unfired for about $150 less than a new one (with lock). It feels like a toy gun, in your hand.

I also found an unfired, 1 7/8" 317 for $200 less than a new one (with lock).


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I recently purchased one of their 317 3" kit guns with the internal lock. I love .22's and have quite a few. The idea of the lock of the lock is pure stupidity, but if you want the gun you have no choice. The gun is a beauty it weighs so little that you can't believe it. When its in your hand it weighs less than a toy gun. Anyway I took it out to the range and started shooting it at 15 yards, in the beginning it looked more like a shotgun pattern than pistol group. I shoot j-frames fairly often but this one was not so easy. The trigger pull was fine in both single action and double action, so it was not the trigger it was me.

I've got a comparable 3" alloy but pre-lock. I have to say that while I truly love hiking with it, it has been my most challenging handgun to shoot accurately. I have tested about a dozen different types of .22 ammunition and have found it to be very ammo sensitive, both with regards to group size and also point of aim/POI. I actually got pretty aggravated with it before I figured that out, every time I grabbed a box of (different) ammo and went out to the woods it seemed to shoot to a different spot.

Thank goodness for the adjustable sights is all I can say, I didn't even have enough sight adjustment for one ammo type (the gun shot too high in that instance). IIRC I have adjusted my rear sight blade off to one side or the other, I'll have to check mine and post back.

As I said, I do like mine a lot for hiking and it's very handy (no other gun I've handled compares to it), but for serious shooting I would prefer a steel frame and at least another inch of barrel.

Interesting topic. :)
 
317 3"

Kestral:

I could not agree with you more on the difficulty of shooting this revolver well. I am no expert but I really think it to do with the weight or rather the lack of weight.

When I started holding it like it was a baby bird in my hand my accuracy greatly improved. I do find that unlike other revolvers, which I kind of just shoot, I have to really concentrate on each shot as to pulling the trigger straight back or not applying any pressure with my thumb. I went back to school so to speak with it. The tool I found most helpful was that old target that had what you did wrong based on where the bullet hit the target. Now that I think of it I did have a problem with it shooting too high, In the beginning I too had my sight cranked all the way down, If I remember correctly that target told me that I was holding the gun too tight or applying presure with the heel of my hand,. That problem I was able to correct on my own and have since raised my rear sight off the bottom.

I honestly did not notice much difference in impact of various brands of 22's The ones I buy the most of are the CCI blazers in the 525 bulk pack, I also buy the Federal ones at Walmart I am not sure of the exact name but it has the word target in the there somewhere, I think they come 300 or so for about 15.00-16.00. Sometimes the Winchester 333's I never buy any Remington or the stinger type,extra fast ones. The only thing I really shoot at is targets and asst cans and stuff.

Like you I love to carry it on my belt with 100 rounds repacked in a old remington square plastic box of ammo in my pocket. You don't even know its there yet it provides great entertainment.

You are also correct for serious shooting it is never going to replace any steel revolver with a 4"
or longer barrel.
 
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I had a Model 34 once. Sold it...stupid me. Besides simply being about the best kit guns ever, they're continuing proof that small frame rimfire revolvers don't need ridiculously heavy triggers to function properly.
 
FWIW, here were the results of my ammo test with my 317:
(all were 4-shot groups from a bench @ 25 yds)
  • CCI MiniMag: 3 groups, 2.3" avg.
  • CCI MiniMag HP 36 gr: 4 groups, 2.8" avg.
  • Federal Automatch: 2 groups, 3.3" avg.
  • Federal Champion: 2 groups, 2.6" avg.
  • Federal Lightning (1990's): 2 groups, 2.9" avg.
  • Rem. Subsonic: 1 group, 2.5"
  • Rem. TB (1990's): 2 groups, 4.4" avg.
  • Rem. TB (2011): 2 groups, 1.7" avg.
  • Win. CB short (1990's) 29 gr: 2 groups, 3.4" avg
  • Win. Subsonic: 5 groups, 3.0" avg.
Overall group size average = 2.9"

Group centers for the various groups above ranged from 3.5" low, 1" right, 2" left, and 2" high. Thank goodness I've got it zeroed for its best ammo now - it seems to like el cheapo Remington Thunderbolts the most, so I'm not complaining as much these days. :)

(I know that I need to shoot more groups with just a few of the more promising ammo types for a more conclusive test - this was just to weed out most ammo and to obtain a consistent POI.)
 
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Kestral, a can is about 3" wide so as far as I am concerned you are there. I generally plink at 15-20 yards with a two hand hold sitting, I am going to try some thunder bolts though, thanks for the tip.
 
Carl

Those are beauties, but I would not call them "Plinkers". The most accurate pistol I have a Dan Wesson 32 Magnum with it's 8" barrel, at 25 yards with a rest it almost puts them all in thesame hole.
 
What do you plan to do with the revolver?

I want to add a Smith .22 revolver to my modest collection and I know next to nothing about these guns. I know that I want the old style without the lock and at least a three inch barrel. I would love to get educated on the model numbers and input from those you have .22 revolvers. Thanks :)

Welcome to the Forum! You'll find some very nice people here (and helpful, too!)

Do you plan to use the revolver primarily as a "range gun" or "carry gun"?
If carry, concealed or open?

If primarily range gun, I'd definitely suggest a K-frame.
The K-frame choices are:
model 18 (typically found in 4", no barrel underlug)
mode 17 (typically found in 6", no barrel underlug)
model 617 (available as either 4" or 6", both with full underlug)

If primarily a carry gun (not concealed), I'd suggest a 4" steel J-frame.
model 34 (2" or 4" blued or nickel)
model 63 (3", 4", or 5" stainless)

If a carry gun (concealed), I'd suggest a 2" or 3" alloy J-frame.
317 (2" fixed sights, or 3" adjustable sights)
The 317 3" adjustable sight model also makes a great backpacking gun, whether concealed or not. It's very light.

Hope this helps,
Lou
 
Thanks,

Carl

Those are beauties, but I would not call them "Plinkers". The most accurate pistol I have a Dan Wesson 32 Magnum with it's 8" barrel, at 25 yards with a rest it almost puts them all in thesame hole.

You're right these are my range guns, although the K-22 pre-17 is used for plinking especially for the kids. When you say "32 Magnum" I think you mean .32 H&R magnum. We all know the king of 32s is the .327 Federal Magnum. LOL
 
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