need load for .357 158 gr over Bullseye

John Hill

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I want to load some 158 gr SWC cast lead for .357 over Bullseye. I don't have any manuals that address my specific need
Bullet is Lee #TL358 SWC
Lead measures 11.0 BNH hardness
I have plenty of Bullseye.
My Lyman Cast Bullet handbook 4th edition gives load for Lyman #358665 (Linotype) Starting 6.2 gr and max 6.9 gr.
Does my Lee bullet with my BNH differ much from this?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
John
 
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According to Alliant and Lyman 6.9 grs of Bullseye with a 158 gr cast or jacketed bullet is a bit below the maximum industry std of 35,000 psi at only about 32,400 psi. I would just load the 6.9 grs with your bullet without wasting your components by slowly working up one tenth of a grain at a time if I were you.
 
My purpose for loading these is that I want them to carry in my S&W Mod 60 3' barrel .357. I want this solid bullet in this weight as defense against possible black bear attack. I hike daily in black bear country and may accidentally surprise one and scare it and make it feel cornered and to defend itself.
Thanks
john
 
You might get more oomph out of Unique or 2400, but you also might not like the extra recoil with your light gun. I use Unique in my 60 “bear load”, but it is loaded down comparable to the Bullseye load you are considering (which I’ve also tried) - I can’t accurately shoot heavier loads than that.
 
According to Alliant and Lyman 6.9 grs of Bullseye with a 158 gr cast or jacketed bullet is a bit below the maximum industry std of 35,000 psi at only about 32,400 psi. I would just load the 6.9 grs with your bullet without wasting your components by slowly working up one tenth of a grain at a time if I were you.

Every load in my Lyman manual is below SAAMI max. Does that mean it’s OK to just start with the listed max load?

6.9 grains of bullseye with 158 grain lead bullet isn’t the highest pressure load listed but it appears to be more pressure than 90% of the other loads listed for any .357 magnum combination.
 
You might get more oomph out of Unique or 2400, but you also might not like the extra recoil with your light gun. I use Unique in my 60 “bear load”, but it is loaded down comparable to the Bullseye load you are considering (which I’ve also tried) - I can’t accurately shoot heavier loads than that.
I have plenty of the Bullseye as well as Winchester 231. I won't reload enough of these rounds to warrant buying more powder from other makers. I just want the load that I end up with to be SAFE and one that I can fire effectively if the emergency arises.
If I could find commercial 158 gr SWC I would just buy a box and let it go at that.
John
 
My question is why only a J-frame (with 5 shots) for SD in Bear Country...?

Not being critical: personally I would go with a box of something hard cast from Buffalo Bore. For those days and trips the chances are good you'll never actually need them, but...

If you did, and knowing the potential threat, why not factory fodder for extra insurance?

Cheers!
 
If you’re going to load your own with that bullet weight, I agree with the others to start at the lower range and work your way up. Shoot some and then make an informed decision on if you want to increase the powder charge to your liking. Ultimately your call.
 
Every load in my Lyman manual is below SAAMI max. Does that mean it’s OK to just start with the listed max load?

6.9 grains of bullseye with 158 grain lead bullet isn’t the highest pressure load listed but it appears to be more pressure than 90% of the other loads listed for any .357 magnum combination.

All loads with cast bullets, or jacketed, listed in the Lyman manuals are pressure tested with pressure listed. None are excessive or above SAAMI maximum. I would start with the top load listed for any .357 mag load without the slightest hesitation. Working up 1/10 gr at a time to a load under 35,000 psi is a waste of components. Actual high pressure signs like flattened primers do not even occur until around 70-80,000 psi so what are you looking for with 10ths of a grain at loads around 32-33,000 psi?
 
I know it's black bear, not grizzly or polar, but I'd still want something more than a short barreled, 5-shot revolver and a light to mid-range cast lead 357 Magnum load. I would much rather tote a 4 inch K or L-frame stoked with full power 158 grain JSP or hard cast LSCW for black bear.
 
All loads with cast bullets, or jacketed, listed in the Lyman manuals are pressure tested with pressure listed. None are excessive or above SAAMI maximum. I would start with the top load listed for any .357 mag load without the slightest hesitation. Working up 1/10 gr at a time to a load under 35,000 psi is a waste of components. Actual high pressure signs like flattened primers do not even occur until around 70-80,000 psi so what are you looking for with 10ths of a grain at loads around 32-33,000 psi?

Brass that’s hard to eject, loads where the accuracy goes downhill with the relatively soft lead bullets, loads that cause leading. For .38 Special I’d agree with your basic premise. With .357 I’d start somewhere under max.
 
My question is why only a J-frame (with 5 shots) for SD in Bear Country...?

Not being critical: personally I would go with a box of something hard cast from Buffalo Bore. For those days and trips the chances are good you'll never actually need them, but...

If you did, and knowing the potential threat, why not factory fodder for extra insurance?

Cheers!
I hike for 1 hour every day in the woods on the mountain. I was carrying my 1911 with 230 gr .45 ACP and 7 shots but always had to remove my IWB Crossbreed Supertuck that I always have on me for my 3" S&W Mod 60. I weighed the benefits of 7 shots from .45 ACP vs .357 Mag with only 5 shots if I had to actually stop a threat from a black bear.
If I could find a box of Buffalo Bore I would buy them. There are none around here.
(PS) I do have a 6" blue Python that is like new and only use it for target. I hate to pack it in the woods every day.
John
 
10mm Auto and 45 ACP are not bad choices for black bear. Both have adequate penetration with hard cast and FMJ bullets. The single action trigger pull of the 1911 would certainly make it easier to fire rapidly with good precision.
 
I hike for 1 hour every day in the woods on the mountain. I was carrying my 1911 with 230 gr .45 ACP and 7 shots but always had to remove my IWB Crossbreed Supertuck that I always have on me for my 3" S&W Mod 60. I weighed the benefits of 7 shots from .45 ACP vs .357 Mag with only 5 shots if I had to actually stop a threat from a black bear.
If I could find a box of Buffalo Bore I would buy them. There are none around here.
(PS) I do have a 6" blue Python that is like new and only use it for target. I hate to pack it in the woods every day.
John

I just checked their website and the 180gr HEAVY OUTDOOR load was available... Just an FYI.

Cheers!

P.S. Good to know you had other options and made your most reasonable choice. I was sincere when I said I was not trying to be critical.
 
Brass that’s hard to eject, loads where the accuracy goes downhill with the relatively soft lead bullets, loads that cause leading. For .38 Special I’d agree with your basic premise. With .357 I’d start somewhere under max.

Suit your self. I thought the issue was pressure and it’s not MY premise. Speer # 13 page 55 in their section on pressure which I’m sure most handloaders never read as many probably never read any thing in their manuals except the load tables. They explain why working up looking for pressure signs at handgun pressures is a waste of time. They show pics of .44 mag loads of loads up to 47,700 cup, way over pressure and primers all look the same. Do whatever makes you happy. If you want to argue, argue with Speer.
 

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