I have a 19-2 that the cylinder doesn't lock up as quickly as my other revolvers. I watched a couple of YouTube videos and it seems the problem could be the cylinder stop plunger. I can't seem to find a place that has them. I might also buy the cylinder stop, just to cover the bases. Anyone know of where these are in stock?
Need parts for a 19-2
- Thread starter Dgfrtsgt
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19-2 doesn’t have a cylinder stop plunger. That’s a 4 screw thing.
If cylinder isn’t rotating far enough it’s likely the hand.
If cylinder isn’t rotating far enough it’s likely the hand.
dfariswheel
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As above probably a crudded up cylinder stop and spring, or rusty.
S&W cylinder stops seldom give trouble unless broken or someone has been amateur gunsmithing on it.
Before replacing or altering ANYTHING find out what's actually happening.
If you're not certain, be smart, buy a copy of the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop manual.
This thoroughly shows all S&W pistolsmithing as done by the factory.
This can save you a world of trouble and expense trying to fix something that isn't broke......
HERITAGE GUN BOOKS S&W REVOLVER SHOP MANUAL- 5TH EDITION
For new parts, see Jack First Gun Parts..........
Smith & Wesson old model K frame 1957-1988 >> Jack First Inc.
S&W cylinder stops seldom give trouble unless broken or someone has been amateur gunsmithing on it.
Before replacing or altering ANYTHING find out what's actually happening.
If you're not certain, be smart, buy a copy of the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop manual.
This thoroughly shows all S&W pistolsmithing as done by the factory.
This can save you a world of trouble and expense trying to fix something that isn't broke......
HERITAGE GUN BOOKS S&W REVOLVER SHOP MANUAL- 5TH EDITION
For new parts, see Jack First Gun Parts..........
Smith & Wesson old model K frame 1957-1988 >> Jack First Inc.
That is definitely NOT a hand issue.
With the cylinder open (and empty
), pull the thumbpiece back (to get bolt out of way of hammer), pull the hammer back slowly. The cylinder stop should drop down but quickly pop back up.Getting the cylinder stop spring into the frame and the stop at the same time without bending and pinching it can be a chore.
You should not be closing the cylinder with it spinning in the first place. Hard on the cylinder stop, the sides of the slot in the cylinder AND the slot in the frame. Kind of like putting a stick in the spokes of a bicycle.
I agree that some brake cleaner in and around the cylinder stop should clean up any gunk
Another thing that can happen because of abuse is a bump can develop in the cylinder notches lead in ramp right at the slot and that causes the stop to bounce
I agree that some brake cleaner in and around the cylinder stop should clean up any gunk
Another thing that can happen because of abuse is a bump can develop in the cylinder notches lead in ramp right at the slot and that causes the stop to bounce
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The usual places for these parts are Jack First Gun Shop, Numrich Arms, and here are usually sellers on eBay or at local gun shows.
As others have stated above, give the gun a good cleaning and a light lube prior to doing anything. You might luck out.
As others have stated above, give the gun a good cleaning and a light lube prior to doing anything. You might luck out.
Had bought a well used (and abused) 625 3 incher several years ago, which had similar problem when loaded with rounds. Worked fine unloaded. Turned out someone had actually shortened the cylinder stop spring. Had another revolver that needed the slot edges smoothed out.
I don't know much, but trying to learn.
I don't know much, but trying to learn.
