New 629 - couple questions

[Riptide]

I hope you all are enjoying your weekend. I just shot my new 629 today and have a couple questions.

Ammunition used was Magtech 240g @ 1180fps. About 80 cartridges were expended. Some malfunctions were encountered.

Three times the hammer fell but the weapon did not discharge. There was evidence of a light primer strike.

The ejector rod came unscrewed and was loose making it so that I was unable to close the cylinder.

I am assuming running into these issues is abnormal?

Thanks

 

[Fishinfool]

Being a new gun, I would first give it a good cleaning to remove factory shipping grease, paying particular attention to the area around the frame mounted firing pin, and under the star.

Remove the grips, and make sure the "strain screw" (that little screw that pushes against the main spring) is fully seated and tight.

The ejector rod sounds like it was not sufficiently tightened at the factory. My method for tightening is, with 6 empty brass in the chambers, to place a piece of leather over the knurled tip, then gently tighten with a pair of pliers.

Might want to then try another brand of ammo. If you keep having problems with light strikes, a trip back to S&W, on their dime, is a good idea.

Larry

 

[jack the toad]

And remember as you're probably aware by now, the threads are LH.
If you're not comfortable or just don't wanna mess with and would like a once over of the entire gun, call S&W Tuesday and let them advise you what to do.

 

[Riptide]

Are the grips easy to get off? I'm no gunsmith but I'm not completely inept mechanically and it doesn't seem like this would be rocket science.

I suppose I can try to solve the situation myself first. Then again maybe calling them might be a good idea. I'd prefer to not ruin the warranty on a $800 handgun fishing around in there.

I hadn't really cleaned it before firing it. Just wiped it down and ran a patch through it. After cleaning it up the cylinder spins more freely than it had been. Kinda doubt cleaning it is going to fix the aforementioned problems though.

 

[jack the toad]

If mine, at this point I might at least call S&W and if you're ok with tightening the ejection rod (it's the only LH thread) or troubleshooting the light primer strikes, you've at least reported it.

 

[twodog max]

I do not think you have to much of a problem but if you are unsure about even removing the grips I think you need to call S&W. Taking grips off is real basic and simple so if you are put off by that seek assistance.

 

[Riptide]

I googled the strain screw and it looks like it is a piece of cake.

The challenge, if there is one, is to getting a brand new set of grips off the gun. I have a hex set and can probably get the screw out - but what is the trick to getting the grips off without damaging the finish? I'm assuming they aren't going to just slide right off.

 

[Cal44]

The grips might just slide right off.

Or you can try to pry them off with your finger nail. Don't use a knife or screwdriver as that will damage them.

Another thing is to loosen the grip screw, but not take it all the way out -- leave it slightly engaged with the threads. Then press on the screw and it might pop one of the grips off. Once you get one off, you can push the other off easily.

 

[Riptide]

I called this AM.

They suggested trying different ammunition, removing the grips and checking the strain screw, and putting the cylinder in a vise and tightening the extraction rod that way. So basically what I was told to do here.

If it still has issues especially with other ammunition it may need to go back in.

I bought the magtech because it was the cheapest 240@1180 I could find. Maybe it was cheap for a reason. I don't know. I have some winchester and federal on the way so I suppose I'll find out soon enough.

 

[AveragEd]

There is a tool you should own that will permit you to remove and install the ejector rod without risking any damage to it. It consists of two plates with grooves cut across their surface that match the diameters of the various S&W frame size ejector rods perfectly. Four Allen screws tighten the plates and the tool allows the rod to be loosened and tightened without effort or damage.

For less than thirty bucks, no S&W revolver owner should be without one. MidwayUSA sells them: Power Custom Revolver Extractor Rod Removal Tool

Ed

 

[Edmo]

Riptide, is this a new or used revolver?

Don't forget you have other options if S&W doesn't want to send you a shipping label and you don't feel fully confident in attempting to deal with it yourself.

There is likely a gunsmith in your area who is both familiar and competent with revolver repairs. The kid at Gander Mountain who mounts scopes on rifles isn't the guy you want. Find someone competent on S&W revolvers. You might even find one who will allow you to watch and learn as he inspects your gun.

If a new gun, S&W really should take a look at it with shipping on their dime. Although the tasks before you aren't especially daunting, a $800 revolver isn't the place I would attempt to learn gunsmithing... Especially if it is my $800 revolver.

Good luck and let us know what happens...

Edmo

 

[Riptide]

Tis a brand new firearm.

Since the strain screw access is relatively easy I am ok with attempting it. It is just one screw after all. Assuming the grips come off without a battle.

They will send me a ship label if it needs to come in for work. While I am a little disappointed with this situation I think they are handling it OK so far.

The FTF issue bothers me more than the extractor. I will bookmark that tool though in the post further up. Thanks much.

 

[Riptide]

Is this a problem? Grips are off. Main spring doesn't really look centered in there to me.

 

[AveragEd]

I don't know if that spring's position is causing your problem but it is easily centered. Just loosen the strain screw, move the spring to the center and retighten the screw.

Ed

 

[Mulebuk Sam]

@Riptide,

Wondering if you tried the simple test yet of trying different ammo ?
Magtech is garbage for the most part to begin with.
Spending that kind of money to feed it garbage ammo doesn't make sense to me. There is only one foreign ammo I would ever trust, Fiocchi.

And then only because it's made mostly in Missouri with American powders by a company who's country truly knows firearms.

 

[BigMuddy]

I've never used Mag Tech ammo but I did try some of their primers. Had way too many FTF's. I believe the cups are pretty hard. Definitely try different ammo. The main spring not being centered will add to the issue but as mentioned is easy to correct.

Ed, thanks for the tip on the tool from Ron Power. I will be adding one of those.

Dan

 

[Riptide]

Good morning Gentlemen.

While the grips were off I was able to snug down the strain screw. It was at least one full turn loose apparently from the factory. I also noticed the cylinder release latch screw was loose and snugged that down.

I did loosen the strain screw back up after I snugged it down in order to see if I could get the main spring to move over for me. I was unable to move the spring. I was not comfortable with loosening the strain screw to the point there was no tension on the main spring at all for fear of causing a problem with the alignment of components further up in the trigger area which are out of view with the grips off.

So I tightened the strain screw back down and put the grips back on. I understand the Mag Tech is admittedly cheap ammunition. I am trying different stuff next time. Winchester, Federal, Fiocchi.

 

[AveragEd]

You don't have to worry about anything upstream from the strain screw becoming misaligned - loosen the screw far enough to enable moving the mainspring and then retighten it. The mainspring "hangs" on the hammer link and unless you take it out of the frame, it won't become disconnected - and even if it would, it's easy to put back in place.

Here's a good idea when you're working on something with which you aren't familiar - take pictures of the work area from different angles. That way, if something does come apart or you are called away before completing the job, you have some reference material to fall back upon. Of course, there are countless online gunsmithing videos and guides you can use and there are books on S&W revolvers you can buy.

Ed

 

[Neumann]

The main spring hooks over a yoke on the hammer like two fingers. The other end fits in a slot in the frame. It is always under tension, and removing the strain screw will not cause it to fall out. If part extends outside the frame from the side, it will probably hit the grips. Think it over a bit and get it centered.

The strain screw should be fully tightened. It is a retainer, not an adjustment. I've had to tighten it in at least two new revolvers, the ejector rod too.

Buy a tool for the extractor. It's good to have around. Don't use pliers or a vice, the extractor is just a thin, hollow tube. Don't use Loc-Tite either. It will leak and lock up parts that need to move, and the extractor may break like a green stick when you need to remove it again.

 

[cowboy4evr]

I have encountered loose knurl nut numerous times , sometimes after a shooting session . I always put at least 3 spend cases back in the cylinder (skip one-load one etc) . I found that a spring loaded clothes pin fit over the knurl nut and gave me more to grip with my fingers , no pliers please as you can over tighten and bend the rod . Remember , it's a left hand thread ( on is off ) and NO loctite , not even the soft . You can loosen the strain screw but not remove it . Use the butt end of your screwdriver handle to bump it back in alignment . I am not sure that is your misfire problem but it needs to be aligned , anyway. Hope this helps. Good Luck