New 686 MG -Good, Bad & Ugly

scruffy

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Yesterday I went to a LGS to check out a new 686-7 Mountain Gun. Instant lust. Had to have it in spite of it's full MSRP $1,199 tag. TGW Bear Hug grips felt great, sights were awesome with the brass bead front, action was smooth in DA/SA, fit and finish were outstanding, no barrel cant and tight B/C gap. Felt to me more like a well balanced K frame than a standard 686. Took it home, gave it a good cleaning and went to the range this morning.

The Good
: Shot 100 rds Federal 130 gr. FMJ .38 special and 50 Federal .357 Magnum 158 gr SJSP in single and double action. No issues, everything functioned as it should. Good primer strikes, shells ejected fine and no debris from the .357s with a .004" B/C gap. Timing and carry up were spot on. I measured 3.75# S/A and 9# D/A. Great trigger and lock up was rock solid with the detent in crane design.

The Bad: After a few shots of .357, the Bear Hug grips needed to come off. What looked and felt great in hand translated quickly into pain. The nice grainy smooth texture didn't provide much grip with those .357 either. On went rubber Hogue round to square conversion grips which eliminated the pain and provided a solid comfortable grip.

The Ugly: Out of the box both .38 and .357 shot 4-5 inches low at 10 yds off hand. Windage was centered and grouping was reasonable (for me) but all shots way hit way too low. I was shooting with a combat hold, gold bead over POA which should have been higher than 6 o'clock hold. Thinking it was me and maybe unaware of a possible flinch, I had a guy at the range (long time good shooter) try 8 shots. His groups were a little tighter than mine but actually hit about another inch lower than me. I watched him and there was no flinch or pulling the gun down on his part. I kept raising the rear sight 2-3 clicks at a time and finally got closer to center after about 10 clicks above the factory setting. Got to hitting steel plates at 50' more consistently I need to use a rest to finish dialing it in. Also, I for some reason I had trouble getting a repeatable grip with the Hogues almost like they were too much grip for the gun. All in all I felt like I just couldn't shoot this gun well which was disappointing.

Called it a day, went home gave it a thorough cleaning and put a set of S&W factory synthetic round L-frame grips which I always like to shoot with on. I'll take to to an indoor range with a rest tomorrow and see how it goes.
 

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The 686 MGs have a really tall front sight. This has worked out OK for some owners, but not for me. Due to this, my gun shot very low, even after cranking up the rear sight as much as I dared. I installed a rear sight with a taller "slide" to correct the issue.

The factory grips fit me just fine, but..... The thin top of the grips comes back hard with Magnum ammo, causing bloodshed at the base of my thumb. I installed the big ugly Hogue 'Tamer" grips, to eliminate further bloodshed;)

OK, couple small issues, but I don't regret buying one of the much maligned current production S&Ws. The new 686MG has become one of my favorites...
 
I kind of enjoy reading about pain and bloodshed with a 35oz. revolver. It sort of puts my 340 PD's 11.7 oz. Into perspective. I have these little white scar tissue marks that show me where to put the band-aids prior to LEOSA qualification each year. Less pain, no bleeding. YMMV.
 
I was going to pile on. I had a big old post all typed out, but deleted it. You guys are probably sick of hearing about it.

Scruf, if there is metal on the front sight, above the gold bead, it would be simple to take the front sight down a bit. Or you could swap out the rear sight blade with a taller one. MidwayUSA may have a taller one. The front sight is way too tall on mine as well.

You sure do a good job of cleaning a revolver. What do you use?

Post pics of some targets after you get it dialed in.
 
Very little metal above the gold bead so a shorter front sight would be needed. I don't want to go that route. The rear sight blade on mine is Smith's .126" , their shortest blade. I'm going to call their CS and request either the .146" or .160" depending on what they recommend. Worst that can happen is I'm out $19.
 
Why does S&W put such tall sights on some revolvers? My 386PD had a too-tall front sight from the factory causing shots to group 4-5" low at 7 yards. I could possibly see putting low-ish sights on the front, if the gun was intended for distance shooting.
 
At 7 yards, the round is still rising. I am going to guess that somewhere about 25-50 yards you will see a better POA/POI intersection.
I learned this in AR training - sighted at 50, the path will again cross at about 200. The trajectory will be pretty close to POA from 25 yards or so to almost 250.
 
Had always regretted not seeking out the 686 Mt. when they were first introduced years ago, so ordered one from my LGS when they were announced earlier this year. Carry-up and BC gap were good, action was smooth. The gold bead was missing from the front sight (which is apparently not uncommon). The gun misfires 20% due to a short firing pin (no, it's not the strain screw), also not uncommon. Worst of all, you had to pound the cylinder open with the heel of your hand, and closing it was nearly as difficult. To their credit CS was polite and helpful, and sent a call tag, but I don't want to risk shipping the gun all the way across the country and back. A nasty burr on the crane lock recess, visible with the naked eye, was causing the open/close issues, so I dremeled it off as best I could, no doubt voiding any warranty. The Ahrend grips are beautiful and feel good in the hand until you actually shoot the gun; as noted they are too narrow at the top left, but I get that is an individual thing; might work great for others. It would appear S&W's QC is minimal and indifferent, having chosen the model wherein you ship everything coming off the line and fix any complaints from the end user, that being cheaper than rigorous inspection prior to shipping. I have dozens of S&W revolvers but won't be buying any more new ones unless I can inspect them first. YMMV.
 
I've only had mine out briefly for ~50 rounds of .38spl. so far.

The stock grips felt fine with a reasonable number of special ammo but I haven't tried any magnums through it yet.

Mine was shooting a bit low, but not terribly. I wasn't going to tamper with the rear sight until I had a chance to shoot several bullet weights of both .38 & .357 through it.

Standing, two hands, unsupported.

Circle 3: 5 yards
Circles 7 & 11: 10 yards
Circle 15: 15 yards

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I did have a couple light primer strikes but I was only using some budget, off brand ammo so I'm not sure if that was the gun or the ammo.

Overall, the fit and finish on mine seems reasonable.

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I agree with Venom6 that someone at S&W made the decision to use the buyer to be the quality control department.

Probably looks fine on paper until you factor in the bad PR and missed sales because of it.
 
I'm a big fan of mine, but I also encountered the issue of rounds hitting much lower than anticipated. They probably should've put a taller rear sight on these from the factory given how tall the front sight is. I'll have to go looking for an alternative or perhaps procure some D&L Sports fixed sights instead. But all in all I'm quite pleased with the overall package and it handles, looks, and feels great. Especially with no lock and a partial underlug. I wish my bearhug grips were a little darker, but I found them comfy as can be and their inclusion was a great decision over the usual too-thin Altamont stocks.

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On a handgun, where is the line of flight supposed to cross the line of sight? On a scoped rifle it's 25 to 35 yards, depending on the caliber.
 
I went the other route and went with the 44mag. Shoots great
 

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