New Acquisition

[oneeyedpete]

Hi Guys, I just got this revolver and don't know much about it. The serial number is 136XXX and the left frame grip has "H' and "B" stamped on it. The right grip has what appears to be "1" stamped into it. Unfortunately, the cylinder seems to be stuck even though it will cock and fire. I'll need to find a gunsmith in the Miami area that can help me with repairing it.

 

[22hipower]

Looks like a pre-27 (should be an S as part of the SN) with incorrect stocks; but those incorrect stocks appear to be the much sought after "cokes" and worth around $500 by themselves. Better pictures of the gun would help but it looks to be in good shape. Closest pre-27 I have to it has an SN in the 151000 range which is 1955 so yours is earlier. There should be a B indicating blue in the barrel shroud along with the SN. Nice.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[hkcavalier]

The serial number (which has an S in front of it for sure) and the pictures are all that's really needed. You have a pre-27 .357 Magnum, probably shipped in early 1955, with very desirable "Coke" stocks.

Any gunsmith worthy of the name should have that gun freed up in about 10 minutes.

What did you pay for it?

 

[oneeyedpete]

Thanks for all the info guys! I got the serial number before it locked up on me so I cant say if there was an S ahead of the serial number. The same serial number is on the cylinder but does not have an "S" on it. Unfortunately, all the "gunsmiths" in Miami pretty much can't do a thing other than assemble AR15s and repair Glocks. All the old timer guys are dead or gone! If anyone knows a gunsmith in the south Florida area that can handle the repair pls let me know! I am afraid to take it to the usual guys down here. I also go up to Tryon NC so if you know someone near that area let me know. Thanks!!!

 

[crsides]

Chances are the extractor rod has backed out, tying up the extractor rod in the lock. try to tighten the knurled end of the ejector rod with your fingers. A cloth might help. If you can turn it just a little, the cylinder may unlock. Yours has right hand threads.

 

[oneeyedpete]

Chances are the extractor rod has backed out, tying up the extractor rod in the lock. try to tighten the knurled end of the ejector rod with your fingers. A cloth might help. If you can turn it just a little, the cylinder may unlock. Yours has right hand threads.

Wow! you sir are the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It worked!!!!
This is the BEST site for experts on these guns...wow, jus wow..

 

[SS336]

That is a beauty, for sure. With "cokes" no less. Very nice.

 

[Hondo44]

Oops, I was typing and distracted by a phone call too long!

The most likely reason you can't open cyl is because the extractor rod has come unscrewed and backed out. Screw it in tight (right hand thread on pre ~ 1960 models) by:

cocking the hammer partially to lower the cyl stop, stick a credit card between it and the cyl, hold the extractor knob and turn the cyl clockwise.

The place to always get the serial # from is the gun butt.

 

[handejector]

Chances are the extractor rod has backed out, tying up the extractor rod in the lock. try to tighten the knurled end of the ejector rod with your fingers. A cloth might help. If you can turn it just a little, the cylinder may unlock. Yours has right hand threads.

Wow! you sir are the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It worked!!!!
This is the BEST site for experts on these guns...wow, jus wow..

Now that you have it open, you need to tighten it firmly. Take the cyl out of the gun if you know how. Insert 3 or 4 fired cases into the chambers. I use leather covered oak vise jaws to hold the rod while I tighten the cyl. DON'T use too much force! You are turning a very small rod. You want it tight, but it CAN be twisted off!


I had to go eat, and Charlie beat me to this. I cut a business card the width of the cyl window, and fold it to keep it in place. Cock hammer just enough to lower the cyl stop, insert card, and lower hammer--

 

[Club Gun Fan]

Thanks for all the info guys! I got the serial number before it locked up on me so I cant say if there was an S ahead of the serial number. The same serial number is on the cylinder but does not have an "S" on it. Unfortunately, all the "gunsmiths" in Miami pretty much can't do a thing other than assemble AR15s and repair Glocks. All the old timer guys are dead or gone! If anyone knows a gunsmith in the south Florida area that can handle the repair pls let me know! I am afraid to take it to the usual guys down here. I also go up to Tryon NC so if you know someone near that area let me know. Thanks!!!

The numbers you quoting don't matter. The number you want is on the butt. Thats the only number that matters when asking for any information. You'll have to remove the stocks to get that number.

 

[oneeyedpete]

Thanks Guys for all the good info. Once I got it open I wrapped a cloth arounf the cylinder and hand tightened the rod. I don't want to go any further as I fear I could over tighten the rod. I have very strong hands and I hope that takes care of the problem. Now I know what to look for. Special thanks to Charlie!

 

[oneeyedpete]

The numbers you quoting don't matter. The number you want is on the butt. Thats the only number that matters when asking for any information. You'll have to remove the stocks to get that number.

OK, I removed the grips and the number on the bottom is S 136XXX which matches the other numbers on the inside of the ejector shroud and cylinder.

 

[Retired W4]

If you are going to have targets on that puppy those are the ones to have. Nice pre-27.

 

[raljr1]

I have 131668 which shipped in April 1955

Robert

 

[crsides]

MOst of what I know I learned right here on this forum (that and You Tube). For example, I didn't know to place a business card on top of the cyl stop. Thanks guys.

 

[ChargerBill]

Hi Guys, I just got this revolver and don't know much about it. The serial number is 136XXX and the left frame grip has "H' and "B" stamped on it. The right grip has what appears to be "1" stamped into it. Unfortunately, the cylinder seems to be stuck even though it will cock and fire. I'll need to find a gunsmith in the Miami area that can help me with repairing it.

Can you clarify "stuck"?

Does the cylinder not rotate after you pull the trigger?

or

Does the cylinder not spin on the ejector rod / yoke assembly?

or

Does the cylinder rotate but not automatically advance after a trigger pull?

or

Is the cylinder stuck in the closed position meaning that the yoke will not rotate away from the frame to the open position?

 

[ChargerBill]

Lol…I should have read further down. Glad you got it open.

FYI: the problem with "hand tightened" is that the last guy before you only hand tightened it and that is why it backed out. All you need to do is give it a quick twist (not even really a twist at all…more of a jerk) beyond hand tightening. Imagine a 9/16 nut you just hand tightened, then you put a wrench on it and gave it 1/32nd of a turn…if even that.

I'm sure the clothespin technique works (I didn't have one), but what I did was find an old plastic card, like a Subway card or GNC card (credit card) and folded it in half over the knurls and used a vice grip to slightly and securely squeeze the card against the knurls and then literally gave it a very slight jerk.

 

[oneeyedpete]

I have 131668 which shipped in April 1955

Robert

Thanks for that point of reference Robert!

 

[Truckman]

I didn't know to place a business card on top of the cyl stop. Thanks guys.

My thanks too, it's an excellent tip to prevent damage......Ben

 

[Nightowl]

There are tools available made specifically to use to tighten the ejector rods. Try MidwayUSA or Brownells to find one. Not very expensive and nice to have for Smith owners.