New girl, with a new 15-22!

Let me add my welcome to the forum.
No one seemed to ask, so I will, what happend with those FTFs? Did they do what they were supposed to on the second try?

Rimfire does get air bubbles or thin spots in the primer now and again apparantly.

I'm asking cause I've got some that do great in my pistol and are enough to make me want to bend the barrel in my rifle, (or replicate judge Smales). CCi's are working fine Remington T-botls aren't coming to my house again, Federal champions are working well for me so far.


Hi PDL. I re-chambered them, and one fired and the other did not. I tossed that second one.

Unlike all the other casings, both of those showed light FP strikes. All the others had nice deep FP marks. I theorize that the Winchesters I was using, burn a bit dirty, and the F2fire did not fully chamber because of fouling. I think, maybe the fp strike impact energy was taken up, bumping the cartridge the rest of the way into the chamber. Heck I don't know. ;) Just a theory.
 
Lynn,

Welcome, first of all.

You may want to try some different lube. Rem oil is not the greatest choice in lubes. You may have just dried out when you started to get issues.

For what it's worth, I use Militec-1 in just about all the guns I own.

Enjoy,
Bob
 
Lynn,

Welcome, first of all.

You may want to try some different lube. Rem oil is not the greatest choice in lubes. You may have just dried out when you started to get issues.

For what it's worth, I use Militec-1 in just about all the guns I own.

Enjoy,
Bob

Thank you for the welcome. :)

I may try Militec-1, one of these days, if I ever see it in any of the gun stores. I have even asked about it in stores around here. No one carries it though.

It's all Rem Oil or S&Ws spray dry lube up here. I was told by every gun store owner for 100 miles, several by the way, that they won't gum up actions in cold weather like the thicker stuff does. So they are all anybody sells up here.
 
My thanks to rbert0005, for making me look into this more and rethink my previous assumptions, about cleaning and lubing firearms. Now, after doing a bit of research and reading, I have decided to do the following.


I am going to order both of these one step clean lube and protect products, in bulk, from their web pages. Both come highly recommended, by people who know, a heck of a lot more than I do.




Gunzilla was developed to reduce weapon malfunctions for our military and law enforcement.

Similar to the above product, Ballistol cleans, lubes & protects, just about anything.
 
I fired 25 rounds of CCI Stingers tonight, rapid fire, and it was a flawless performance.

Then 25 rounds rapid fire, round nose plain lead, CCI Blazers, and I had two failures to feed. No biggie. Boy o boy, those bullets are funny lookin, ya?

Then 75 more rounds of Stingers, rapid fire, and that was another perfect performance.

Looks like my rifle is OK. I sure love this weapon let me tell ya. :D
 
I have been using Hoppe's Elite. It cleans super thorough. I have also been using Rem Oil. I don't think, all by itself, Rem Oil is adequate for some semi auto actions though.

I am going to add Ballistol to my gun care regimen, because of it's versatility and the protective lubricating film it leaves.

I will likely add M-Pro 7 LCP to my list also. It is a tad cheaper than Hoppe's Elie, even though it is the same thing, made by the same company.
 
Lynn, try not to over-think the lubrication issue, you can save a lot of money by just using a quality synthetic motor oil.

I've been using Redline 20-50 in both my AR15s, the 15-22, both my 1911 .45s and my H&K P7 (and in my 1987 BMW) without any problems or abnormal signs of wear. I also use a white lithium grease on the areas that slide and that take the most abuse, as an added line of protection. The combination has served me well so far......and a quart of motor oil lasts a lot longer than the usual small bottle of specialty oil.

Many on the M4 & 1911 forums use motor oil, but you'll always find those hard-core types the insist on some specialty oil. The way I see it is that if the oil will handle the effects from a running engine it will handle the effects of a gun.
 
try not to over-think the lubrication issue

Much truth there... and it applies to a lot of things beyond lubricants and firearms.

But.... hobbies are the home of over-thinking the simple, over-doing the done, and fixing what ain't broken. Absent these virtues things can get boring ;)
 
Lynn, try not to over-think the lubrication issue, you can save a lot of money by just using a quality synthetic motor oil.

I've been using Redline 20-50 in both my AR15s, the 15-22, both my 1911 .45s and my H&K P7 (and in my 1987 BMW) without any problems or abnormal signs of wear. I also use a white lithium grease on the areas that slide and that take the most abuse, as an added line of protection. The combination has served me well so far......and a quart of motor oil lasts a lot longer than the usual small bottle of specialty oil.

Many on the M4 & 1911 forums use motor oil, but you'll always find those hard-core types the insist on some specialty oil. The way I see it is that if the oil will handle the effects from a running engine it will handle the effects of a gun.


You make some good points there. I have long considered using a motor oil of some kind. I have read about, how many of you guys are using it, with no ill effects. I just might start using motor oil regularly. I know I sure would in pinch. That much is sure. :D

I am leaning toward Ballistol right now, because it is not expensive, since you use so little of it, and it has just heaps of household and around the garage uses. I really like the whole idea of a one step CLP as well. The other thing is, it is plant based, and wildlife, like deer, have even been observed licking at places where Ballistol has been spilled, also to no ill effect by the way. I bet they can sure smell motor a ways off, and I bet they don't like it. I do realize I may be wrong about that part. Just my thoughts on it, for now. For whatever it is worth.

I really appreciate you, advising me not to over think the issue, because I do have tendency to do that. So thank you, sincerely, for sharing your thoughts with on this subject Gunzilla. :)
 
No problem Lynn, sharing info is what this forum is all about. I've learned how to load my 15-22 magazines from a couple of helpful members here!! :D

BTW, on the Rem-oil....it's great for squeeky hinges but I wouldn't put it on my guns. :eek:.....;)

My last thought when I buy gun oil is: "can a deer smell it?" I'm not a hunter so my only concern is does it keep the moving parts wet and slippery.
 
No problem Lynn, sharing info is what this forum is all about. I've learned how to load my 15-22 magazines from a couple of helpful members here!! :D

BTW, on the Rem-oil....it's great for squeeky hinges but I wouldn't put it on my guns. :eek:.....;)

My last thought when I buy gun oil is: "can a deer smell it?" I'm not a hunter so my only concern is does it keep the moving parts wet and slippery.

Yeppers! :D This is place is great. I know I have sure learned a lot here.

Yeah, I agree, you guys definitely got me rethinking my reliance on Rem Oil. :) Now, I would not hunt deer with a 22, but I know rats and gophers and such can sniff stuff real well too.
 
Lately I've almost done my deer hunting with my car. The vermin are everywhere.

Ouch. That can really cost in auto repair bills. We haven't seen a single deer around here. Now, before hunting season, they were all over the place. Maybe we have some exceptionally smart deer in these parts.

Be careful now Joni_Lynn. :)
 
It is like that here too Joni_Lynn, until hunting season that is.
 
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