New Light Tent with 686 CS-1

[Dale53]

riptrack44;
I do have a couple of Alien Bees (B800's) studio strobes but I have done very well with just the 150 watt modeling lamps (I put the camera on a tripod and shoot "aperture priority" with the self timer).

So, you can get the same results with a couple of 150 watt lamps with simple reflectors.

Or, you can do this:

http://www.skaeser.com/servlet/the-363/PHOTO-DIGITAL-%22COOL-FLO%22/Detail

These are somewhat more expensive but NICE. They are cool and should easily have sufficient light output - AND they are "daylight" rated color temperature.

Dale53

 

[riptrack44]

Thanks for the info and the website.

 

[pogo2]

Colored Background?

I have experimented with different colors for my background, by using colored cloth from a fabric store. I find that white is sort of ordinary, and prefer greens and blues:

 

[Dale53]

If you'll look at the picture of my light tent, carefully, you'll see that the "back ground" is a standard sheet of "poster board" found at your local art supply shop. You can see the two spring loaded clothes pins holding it in place. You can change it out to any color that is available. I often use Red or "pool table" green.

Then, as has been seen in many photos on this forum, you can use various props (knives, speed loaders, maps, ammo, and boxes, etc). You are only limited by your own creativity. Keep in mind that it is awful easy to clutter up a photo and REDUCE its visual appeal. Sometimes, less is more...

Composition will add greatly to the appeal (the angle of Pogo2's short barreled revolver really raises the image "to the next level", IMO.

Dale53

 

[JayCeeNC]

It's not absolutely necessary to invest in expensive lights. Sometimes I just put my lightbox on the backporch during a sunny afternoon and use natural light, as with this pipe picture.
(Pipe by Trevor Talbert, courtesy The Pipe & Pint, Greensboro, NC)

 

[Dale53]

JayCeeNC;
You are absolutely correct! Most of my magazine covers have been made in "open shade" in my "Florida" room. It has glass walls (three sides) and a white ceiling. It is far from perfect, but does have decent light under the right conditions.

However, I went to the light tent concept with artificial lights so that I could work at ANY time or weather condition. I am often a creature of impulse and wanted to be able to "strike while the iron is hot". Two simple lights with reflectors will do that for you (as long as you use a light tent). Color balance is important (which can be easily set with a digital SLR or even some "Point and Shoots".

I much prefer to use a Digital Single Lens Reflex (SLR) but have made some DANDY photos with an old Canon G3 "point and shoot". The G3 was and is a rather neat pocket camera that allows the use of RAW and full manual use (it has a "hot shoe" for flash) and is quite full featured. It is four megapixels that will make quite nice enlargements. In fact, my first magazine cover was made with this camera. I had occasion to review some photos the other day taken with this camera, and even looking at them critically, they are just fine.

The point is, with the right set up, you can use most any modern digital camera and with a bit of talent, you are by no means excluded with a film camera. It is just so much easier with digital as you can immediately look at your exposure after snapping a shot. This leads to much quicker learning...

Dale53

 

[riptrack44]

I kept my equipment but forgot most of what I knew with regards to taking really good pics. I did upgrade my DSLR but have mostly used it as most use their point-and-shoot pocket cameras. Looks like I'm gonna have to study up on what I've forgotten. I've also got some experience with Adobe Photoshop. I use Photoshop 4 about every day.

 

[JayCeeNC]

Dale, most of the pics I post on here were made indoors using a light tent and a Canon 4mpx point and shoot.

 

[Dale53]

JayCeeNC;
I "rest my case"...

This is an example of what you can do in "open shade":

http://www.pbase.com/dale53/image/27256598/original

http://www.pbase.com/dale53/image/27256664

This is an original Colt Single action engraved by the Great Master Engraver, Ken Hurst. Ken is a personal friend of mine and I treasure that association.

Dale53

 

[JayCeeNC]

I agree, Dale. As with the pipe pic I posted above I think using a light box outdoors gives great soft overall lighting.

 

[Lenshappy]

Nice job Dale!
Thanks for sharing~~!

All of you guys are doing a great job - keep it up and keep sharing, please!

 

[Andy Griffith]

This thread deserves a btt.

I'm going to have the Mrs. pick up that "box" when she heads into the "big city!"

 

[Mickstix]

Cool pix!! I never knew the lights were supposed to be outside the tent..

lol..

 

[Dregg]

Lol @ the TV stand. I made the same exact one in 9th grade wood shop. It's now a small stand in my computer room.

 

[DCWilson]

Can't believe I missed this thread when it first started. There is a lot of great information here.

The pictures I have posted were mostly taken on art board laid down over a bathroom counter with a four-foot fluorescent light panel overhead. Light is reflected from the mirror behind and from the walls (dark) at either end of the counter. No fill flash or other light is involved. I guess this would be considered a "partial/variable illumination" oversize light box. Makes nice moody and contrasty pictures, but won't give you inventory or catalog quality images.

Here's a "for instance" photo of my 24-3.

I use a Canon G9, low ISO setting, tripod, aperture priority and a little overexposure.

David Wilson

 

[Dale53]

David;
If I might be allowed a little comment here:

One of the advantages in propping the revolver up a bit, it allows the light to "bend around" the revolver, softening shadows and also looking more three dimensional. The trick is to try to hide the prop.

Expose for the "black" when doing blue revolvers (you are doing this already). I almost forgot to mention, nice revolver!

Dale 53

 

[DCWilson]

Originally posted by Dale53:
David;
If I might be allowed a little comment here:

One of the advantages in propping the revolver up a bit, it allows the light to "bend around" the revolver, softening shadows and also looking more three dimensional. The trick is to try to hide the prop.

Expose for the "black" when doing blue revolvers (you are doing this already). I almost forgot to mention, nice revolver!

Dale 53

Thanks, Dale. I like shadow, but I know I have too much. I have experimented with different props, but not with great success so far. I am currently trying art gum and drafting erasers; the white Mars erasers can be cut and shaped, and the pieces used on end. They are both stiff and pretty grippy; they show promise.

David

 

[Dale53]

David;
Some one (on here) suggested using different length dowel rods, with a roll of tape (roll it around your finger one time with an overlap - sticky out) and put the tape on each end of the dowel. That will temporarily stick to the revolver, on one end, and the base of the light tent with the other. I'll be trying that one, myself. The problem with props is that they try to slide out and don't want to stay in place.

I am also thinking of more sophisticated methods. I stand my rifles on a peg (muzzle down) on a low tripod with adjustable legs that allows me some freedom in adjusting the angle of the rifle against a back ground. I use three scrims (48x72") with two strobes. The strobes allow me to shoot free hand without danger of blur as the flash duration is in thousands of a second. That way I have much more freedom for creative framing.

Dale53