I PICKED IT UP ON FRIDAY, SHOT SUNDAY AND TODAY WITH CCI STANDARD AND MINI MAGS NO PROBLEMS. DTX BLUE SPRINGS AND NJ COMPL. WIHT AN EOTECH 512. ( LOVE THE EOTECH ) I CLEANED HER BEFORE I SHOT IT AND WHEN I WAS DONE SHOOTING THE BEST THAT I KNOW HOW TO. I BUT I'AM NOT SURE HOW, WHEN AND WHAT I SHOULD CLEAN. IF ANY ONE KNOWS OF A VIDEO OR BOOK THAT WOULD HELP PLEASE LET ME KNOW. NOT MUCH INFO IN THE BOOKLET THAT CAME WITH IT. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
NEW M&P 15-22 CLEANING QUESTION
- Thread starter eastcoast
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eastcoast, Check out this 3 video series on youtube. I thought it was great for showing me how to clean the gun, minus pulling apart the bolt assembly. Check it out....YouTube - Cleaning the AR-15 (1/3)
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TurboniumOxide
Member
I was amazed at how clean the rifle was after shooting hundreds of rounds. I guess it is just that I am used to the gas guns.
maxxamillion
Member
When I cleaned mine the first time, I couldn't believe how nicely the bolt cleaned up. Looked brand new. Love this rifle.
some exceptions
The AR cleaning instructions generally apply, but there are exceptions with regard to the 15-22. For example, the S&W manual shows the safety set prior to separating the upper and lower and gives a warning not to dry fire. Dry firing the center fire AR-15 is a different story and is OK. The charging handle and bolt of the 15-22 are also removed before pulling the front pin and completely separating upper and lower. Bottom line, use the disassembly/assembly instructions in the 15-22 manual, but follow the actual cleaning steps in the video.
The AR cleaning instructions generally apply, but there are exceptions with regard to the 15-22. For example, the S&W manual shows the safety set prior to separating the upper and lower and gives a warning not to dry fire. Dry firing the center fire AR-15 is a different story and is OK. The charging handle and bolt of the 15-22 are also removed before pulling the front pin and completely separating upper and lower. Bottom line, use the disassembly/assembly instructions in the 15-22 manual, but follow the actual cleaning steps in the video.
lexcruiser
Member
Glad to see another NJ resident here..! Where are you located? Which range do you go to?
I used to shoot at Ray's, but go up to Bullet Hole in Belleville now..
I used to shoot at Ray's, but go up to Bullet Hole in Belleville now..
chuck s
Member
The M16 should be cocked and the safety ON before separating the receivers -- and when reassembling them. The M&P15 is no different.
The bolt carrier group can come out before or after separating the receivers, but since it tends to fall out (!) when they're separated it's probably best to just pull it as you crack the receivers open.
The only "tools" you need for cleaning the rifle are a bore snake, shop rags, and a toothbrush. The same CLP you use for the 5.56mm version works just as well here. No "solvents" and certainly no grease needed.
-- Chuck
The bolt carrier group can come out before or after separating the receivers, but since it tends to fall out (!) when they're separated it's probably best to just pull it as you crack the receivers open.
The only "tools" you need for cleaning the rifle are a bore snake, shop rags, and a toothbrush. The same CLP you use for the 5.56mm version works just as well here. No "solvents" and certainly no grease needed.
-- Chuck
chuck s
Member
.22LR rifles require little lubrication. I put a "generous" coat of CLP on the bolt carrier rails, and a light coat on the other parts of the bolt group. Generous meaning I can smear it around with my finger.
The rest of the rifle requires no lubrication other than a drop or two on each end of the trigger and hammer (inside the receiver) and the sear contact areas. Avoid removing the hammer and trigger parts from the frame unless it's absolutely filthy down there. Removing these parts accelerates receiver wear.
CLP tends to flush dirt out of moving part areas, hence the generous coat on the bolt carrier rails.
This rifle is going to require a little experimentation to determine the optimum lube, but there are few moving parts.
-- Chuck
The rest of the rifle requires no lubrication other than a drop or two on each end of the trigger and hammer (inside the receiver) and the sear contact areas. Avoid removing the hammer and trigger parts from the frame unless it's absolutely filthy down there. Removing these parts accelerates receiver wear.
CLP tends to flush dirt out of moving part areas, hence the generous coat on the bolt carrier rails.
This rifle is going to require a little experimentation to determine the optimum lube, but there are few moving parts.
-- Chuck
TurboniumOxide
Member
As far as cleaning, and before I shot the rifle the first time, I used a nylon brush and CLP, then Butches Bore Shine and patches, then Militec1 patches, then clean patches. I made sure to get the chamber and bore clean for the first session. The chamber and bore was pretty dirty from the factory.
After the first session, I used butches and patches again to gauge bore smoothness from fouling. The patches came out very clean. I think the barrels are very smooth when they come from the factory.
From now on I am going to use a foaming bore cleaner, which gets the carbon and fouling out of the flash hider as well. Then clean patches, then militec1. I am not seeing a reason to brush the bore very often.
This means more shooting, and less cleaning. Woo Hoo!
After the first session, I used butches and patches again to gauge bore smoothness from fouling. The patches came out very clean. I think the barrels are very smooth when they come from the factory.
From now on I am going to use a foaming bore cleaner, which gets the carbon and fouling out of the flash hider as well. Then clean patches, then militec1. I am not seeing a reason to brush the bore very often.
This means more shooting, and less cleaning. Woo Hoo!
ChattanoogaPhil
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I don't clean my rifle as much as I probably should, but there's one area I get spic and span -- bolt. In particular the two arms the bolt rides in get GRIT quick. When dirty, it feels like 80 grit sandpaper when I pull on the charging handle. I start with Hoppes to loosen things up and compress the spring and wipe down on either side of the rails. Then I blast it with Gun Scubber and crud just flows out while compressing the spring in and out. Repeat as needed. Then just a very light mist of Rem Oil With Teflon. (I think they have banned the stuff since I bought my last can years ago cuz I never see it any more.) When done, the bolt rides real smooth and quick. I think maybe that has helped to keep my rifle cycling as well as it has.
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maxxamillion
Member
The only place I use lubrication is on the rails and a just a small amount on the recoil spring guide. Other then that there is no metal on metal contact in the rifle. I haven't lubricated the trigger group yet. I am waiting for surfaces to finish cleaning them selves up. My trigger was god awful when I got it but since it has really smoothed out with use. Another 1000 rounds or so, I'll drop springs in and put a drop of oil on the sear and the trigger should be pretty good.
Brett248Vista
Member
I glug some CLP down the barrel, pull the bore snake through and it's done.. I take the bolt out and take it off the rails and soak the face with CLP for a few mins then wipe off the dirt and clean the grooves the bolt rides on, I put a few drops of CLP on the top and bottom of the rails then reassemble. Every once in a while I take my trigger parts out and clean them and reapply white Lithium grease to the sear face and the pins.
ChattanoogaPhil
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Every couple thousand rounds or so I blast some Gun Scrubber on the trigger group. There's really nothing burnt on, so it flushes everything out and cleans up like new in just a second. Then a quick mist of the Rem. Yeah... okay.... I'm lazy...
Wd-40 works great in these little guns.. just hose them down and blow them out and add your oil and your done... I really don't know why people buy exspensive cleaners to do the same job that wd-40 does.. its a cleaner.. its cheap and most everyone has it laying around anyway... good luck with your task.. I'm sure 10 people will chimb in and tell you how they make clp for a reason and they r right... money
ChattanoogaPhil
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None at all.
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