New M&P 340

[Heraken]

Disengaging the cylinder (for loading) it is not as smooth at say my 686. I am not an expert, but it just feels pretty tight. I've read in this forum that tight barrel to cylinder is good in a snubby.

Should I expect this to smooth out or were the salesman's words that "it is just tight tolerances"a load of bull? .

Any help would be appreciated. I know how to clean and shoot, but I don't know anything about gunsmithing. It just does not open as smooth as I am used to with my other SW revolver.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Spotteddog]

A thorough cleaning pre shooting it. Then rattle it around by shooting it, clean thoroughly after. Especially under the ejector, pivot of the yoke, etc. Don't forget that the forward most screw on the side plate (R/S) is the one that will release the cylinder yoke assembly from the frame for cleaning. Use care when pulling that screw, it may or may not have a spring and ball at the end of the screw. Also, use a PROPER fitting screw driver for that screw. So you don't bugger it up. All that said, the dis-similar materials can make certain aspects of the action feel strange. At least as compared to an all steel gun. Time, use and a bit of wear will smooth things out. Though my 342 will never be as buttery as my daughter in-laws 640-1. And my round count is 5 times what hers is!
BTW-WELCOME!

 

[Heraken]

Thank you Spotteddog! Will clean it tonight and head to range this weekend. Gotta bring two 357 mag rounds just to feel the pain.

All the Best!

 

[Writer_Ron]

Disengaging the cylinder (for loading) it is not as smooth at say my 686. I am not an expert, but it just feels pretty tight. I've read in this forum that tight barrel to cylinder is good in a snubby.

Should I expect this to smooth out or were the salesman's words that "it is just tight tolerances"a load of bull?

It just does not open as smooth as I am used to with my other SW revolver.

My relatively new 340PD locks up very tightly and has zero cylinder endshake. It requires a considerable push on the "thumb piece" to unlock the cylinder. The thumb piece goes all the way forward and I have to give the cylinder a leftward push to compress what I call the spring-loaded detent pin at the back of the cylinder. This pin helps to secure the cylinder in the frame. It must be pushed forward to allow the cylinder to swing out. Once the compressed pin clears the frame, the crane moves freely and the cylinder spins with little friction.

I wouldn't describe "disengaging" my cylinder as "smooth" either, mostly because overcoming the pin spring tension involves a push and generates an audible click -- at the same time I'm pushing the thumb piece all the way forward.

I hope nothing "smooths out." I prefer a tightly locked-up cylinder in a light-weight gun rated to fire 357 magnum rounds.

Ron

 

[Writer_Ron]

Gotta bring two 357 mag rounds just to feel the pain.

LOL. I did the same thing ... BUT, I chose Speer Gold Dot "Short Barrel" 357 mag rounds, which are far more gentle than full-house loads. They are produce hefty recoil -- but can't be described as brutal.

FWIW, my 340PD loves Hornady Critical Defense rounds (110 grain, 38 Special +P). Tiny groups at point of aim!

Ron

 

[Firehouse]

I actually carry Corbon full house loads in my M&P340. For practice I fired around 20 full house magnum loads to get used to the recoil. Well, I didn't get used to the recoil. But it kicked so hard 20 was all I could muster. Ouch.

 

[Writer_Ron]

I actually carry Corbon full house loads in my M&P340. For practice I fired around 20 full house magnum loads to get used to the recoil. Well, I didn't get used to the recoil. But it kicked so hard 20 was all I could muster. Ouch.

Ouch indeed! I wore a shooting glove at the range when I fired the short-barrel 357 magnums, which helped a lot. Even so, the "snappy" recoil got my attention.

Have you had an opportunity to chronograph the full-house loads? I wonder if the velocity increase over +P 38s or "lower power" 357 rounds justifies the pain, the flash, and the noise.

Ron

 

[Robert B]

38+P is my choice

I fire 38+P short bbl loads from both of my J frames. All the ballistics one needs, and none of the pain.

 

[Heraken]

thanks to you too Writer Ron! This forum is fun to surf as I really like to hear the feedback on my topic but also enjoy reading various threads as I am a sponge for information.

Heraken

 

[Four Knives]

Good info on the defense loads.

I like the Gold Dot 38 plus p rounds and the Hornady Crit Defense.

SpottedDog has good info re: your cylinder releasing a bit tightly. Possible the screw is really cranked down there and also possible it just needs a good initial cleaning and slickery lubrication.

 

[Hang-Fire Hank]

"Short Barrel" Ammop

I fire 38+P short bbl loads from both of my J frames. All the ballistics one needs, and none of the pain.

Is the ammo box marked "Short Barrel" or someother words to that effect?

Hank

 

[Goffman]

Speer's "short barrel" ammunition in .38 Spec and .357 Mag both are 135 grain, which distinguish them from the other selections of .38 Spec and .357 Mag. See the bottom of the following webpage...

Speer Ammo - Ballistics Tables