New M&P Shield trigger pull question

Bret

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I've been on a waiting list for a new 40S&W Shield for quite a while. It finally came in at a LGS, so I went by and picked it up for $425+tax. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet, but I've noticed that the trigger pull is significantly heavier than the sample gun the LGS had. I measured it using my Lyman trigger pull gauge and it averages about 9Lbs, 12oz. Yes, I did check the SKU number which is 180020, so it's not the MA compliant model. Do the Shield triggers start out heavy and lighten up or am I looking at having to have the trigger worked on?
 
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I also have a brand new, unfired 40 cal shield. I don't have a pull gauge but would say it's definitely not that heavy of a pull. I would guess right on spec at around 6-6.5 lbs. Thats only based on comparison to my Glock 26 and though I haven't heard anyone else mention this, I would be interested in hearing anyone else's experience.
 
Mine has been right around 6 lbs since the day I took it out of the box

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I haven't measured the trigger pull on my Shield, but it is noticeably heavier than my 40FS.
 
I handled and dry fired one that did not feel too good. It just sucked compared to a new M&P9c I handled a few days earlier. It's like the effort really increased just before the breakover point. I can picture a really steep curve representing the force. It was on-hold at a LGS waiting for its buyer to pick it up.

Despite that, my friend loved the pistol and ordered one (9mm). Two weeks later, his arrived. As soon as I pulled the trigger for a dry fire, he was waiting for my reaction. His face lit up as he said, "IT'S A LOT BETTER THAN THAT OTHER ONE!" Definitely. It was as sweet as the M&P9c.

At this point I'm convinced they are like a box of chocolates...

I'm now in my 7th week waiting for my 40. I hope mine is comparable to my friend's.
 
I'd run a couple of boxes of ammo thru it before deciding what to change. New pistols are typically stiff, the sample one at the LGS probably had a few hundred dry fires by the time you tried it.
 
Just me, but I'd put a few hundred rounds through it before doing anything.

If you still find it unpleasant, run to the Apex web site and order up whatever variation on the DCAEK kit they're offering for the Shield.

(OK, I've got 'em on three larger M&P's with great success.)

As a rule, it seems like they shoot in a bit no matter what. You can get the Apex kit to improve things, or rummage around for Burwell's mods (I hope I'm spelling his name right), which is a DIY version of the Apex kits. Personally, I wouldn't touch the sear, but the mod to the drop safety plunger (both are somewhat critical) is safe enough.

(OK, my skill level is roughly "getting the grips back on the proper side", but that's because I'm a 1911 guy, and you either have to have something of the gunsmithing gene, or have a buddy who does. We have a "fixit" gene in the family - my grandfather had it, as did all three of his sons. I think it missed my mom, though. Dad was a dentist and pretty good at things like bridges and dentures, but guess who had to go to his office to change light bulbs. My wife has issues with light switches, but our daughter's pretty good at such things when she can't foist the job off on me.)

Enjoy the Shield!

Regards,
 
Thanks for the feedback.

It's like the effort really increased just before the breakover point.
This is exactly what my pistol feels like. The takeup is kind of rough and then it reaches a point where the pull stops. Then you have to pull harder than you should have to in order to make it go bang. I'll shoot about 200rds through it and then remeasure the trigger pull weight. The thing is that one of the primary reasons I bought this pistol was because the trigger pull of the one I fondled at the LGS was so good, especially in comparison to my Kahr CM40. Assuming that the pull weight doesn't improve, I'll send it back to S&W as it's nowhere close to the correct 6.5Lb pull. Heck, it's actually closer to the MA approved 10.5Lb pull.
 
Thanks for the feedback.


This is exactly what my pistol feels like. The takeup is kind of rough and then it reaches a point where the pull stops. Then you have to pull harder than you should have to in order to make it go bang. I'll shoot about 200rds through it and then remeasure the trigger pull weight. The thing is that one of the primary reasons I bought this pistol was because the trigger pull of the one I fondled at the LGS was so good, especially in comparison to my Kahr CM40. Assuming that the pull weight doesn't improve, I'll send it back to S&W as it's nowhere close to the correct 6.5Lb pull. Heck, it's actually closer to the MA approved 10.5Lb pull.

It would have been nice to know what the pull force was on the one that I thought felt horrible. Your description seems to fit to a T. Brand new in box waiting on its buyer to pick it up vs. my friend's Shield brand new in box that felt like heaven condensed into a little ole trigger. Go figure.
 
Mine was gritty and hard to pull also.

I polished the striker block, deburred the block bore and polished the sear and trigger bar on mine and it made a huge difference.

Mine is around 6 lbs now.
 
My Shield 40 was 6.5 pounds out of the box. Who is to say S&W did not screw up and you got the MA springs installed in a non MA gun. It is more than a possibility as they have made numerous other screw ups with other guns. Call them and tell them you results. They might send you a return label and fix it the correct pull weight.

Bob
 
Call them and tell them you results. They might send you a return label and fix it the correct pull weight.
My experience with their willingness to repair guns and pay for shipping has been good. I'll shoot it today. Assuming that the trigger doesn't lighten, it will go back for them to repair.
 
I handled and dry fired one that did not feel too good. It just sucked compared to a new M&P9c.
I didn't know you could get worse than a new 9c trigger? I guess I learned something today.

Seriously, triggers of most models have a certain amount of variability. Glad your friend is happy.
 
I took my new 40S&W Shield to the range today along with 25rds Federal American Eagle 165gr FMJ, 25rds Fiocchi 170gr FMJ, 25rds Fiocchi 165gr TCEB Leadless, and 25rds Federal 180gr HST JHP. Reliability is the most important factor as far as I'm concerned. This pistol ran 100%. Accuracy was decent, but I did pull a few to the left due to the trigger. This pistol has sharper and flippier recoil than most of my other 40's, but that's to be expected for such a small pistol. The finger extension on the larger magazine helped significantly with the follow-up shots. The sights were relatively easy to see. When I got home I remeasured the trigger pull. It averaged 8Lbs, 8oz, +- about 1Lb, so it does appear to have lessened some. I'll put another 100rds through it before deciding to send it back to S&W for sure.
 
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You need to put more than 10 more rounds through it, maybe about 200 to 300 rounds. I love my Shield .40. and it is not the only .40 I own. It is not the most accurate one, but accurate enough. You do not want to get hit with a .40 round. It will put you down real quick.
 
Hi, I'm a long-time lurker but a new member here.

I recently purchased a new Shield 9MM #180021 which is suppose to have the 6.5 pound trigger. But the trigger pull is closer to 11 pounds, so much so that my hand shakes trying to pull the trigger. Also, it is extremely gritty during the trigger take up. So this gun has problems and will soon be returned to S&W.
 
Also, I want to add that my Shield's 9mm fired case is dated in March and the magazines do not have the dimple in them. I thought both the 40 S&W and 9MM magazines were getting the "dimple treatment" to prevent the mag drop issue. Perhaps S&W has changed the mag release so that the dimple is not needed?
 
I watched a video on youtube about the Shield and found that I was measuring the trigger pull incorrectly. It turns out that after the trigger broke, my Lyman trigger pull gauge was getting a reading when the trigger stopped at its most rearward point. If I watch the readout on the scale as I pull the trigger, I can see the reading just as the trigger breaks. The trigger pull is actually averaging about 7 3/4 +- 1/2 Lbs. So that makes it 1 1/4 Lb heavier than the specifications call for.
 
Thanks for the update. That is interesting. Regarding your older post commenting in the recoil, what other .40 caliber pistols are your comparing it to? One reason I decided to get one was people raving how much better its recoil is compared to many popular .40 cal. pistols, one being the excellent G27.

Seemed too good to be true...

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I have both a 40 and 9 Shield. I got the 40 first. Trigger pull was decent right out of the box. Nice crisp break to it. Def a better trigger than my FS 9. The trigger on the 9 Shield felt grittier and stronger than the 40. After a couple hundred rounds through it I can't tell the difference now

Fwiw I found the flip and recoil of the 40 to be a lot stouter than my 9 Shield. Makes sense given its size I guess


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I get a kick out of responses that say fire 100,or 200 rounds and if it doesn't smooth out get the Apex kit! Are you kidding me 100-200 rounds or more, have you been to a sporting goods store lately? .9mm, .40, &.45 are almost non existent here, and the prices are unreal. If you reload like I do, if you weren't on top of stockpiling primers they are $60.00 a 1000 and basically they are not available either, powder is hit and miss and bullets are beig gobbled up as soon as they hit the shelf! 100 rounds of ammo is about $50-65.00 you do the math for 200 rounds, The apex kit is available for about 92.00, get the kit save the ammo and its a win,win situation, and when you do get to the range your ammo will be better utilized, by not having to deal with a 9# trigger pull! You can also look up Burwell trigger nad if you have a few tools and a bit of mechanical apptitude you can reduce your trigger to 5.5-6#. Good luck and don't waste good ammo.
 
Its easier to do the APEX, but it is still so very easy to do the DIY Burwell job to get exactly what you want.

If you go slow, and follow directions, you would have a hard time screwing it up
 
50-65 bucks for ammo for 100 rounds? I guess I'm lucky, it isn't anywhere near that expensive at my LGS


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I shot another 100rds through it today. It's still 100% reliable, but the trigger is lacking. I'll measure it again to see where it's at. I'm debating whether to send it back or not.

Regarding your older post commenting in the recoil, what other .40 caliber pistols are your comparing it to?
I have a good number of 40S&W chambered pistols including a Glock 23, H&K USP40, Steyr M40, Kahr CM40, Browning HiPower, Walther PPQ, Para P1640, EAA Witness Compact. In general, the larger and heavier the pistols are, the less the recoil seems to be.
 
I got me a new Shield 9 and when I was shooting it yesterday, the trigger felt very stiff at the break compared to my used 9c. Probably got about 50 rounds through it.

Brought it home and put it on my Lyman scale and the trigger broke at just over 9 lbs. WOW!!!!!

A NY1 in a Glock feels better than that.

I took my slide apart as the striker block feels very crunchy or gritty.

I took the rear sight off and polished the block however the spring does not feel smooth when the spring is compressed into the block.

It appears to me that the spring hole on the striker block is too sloppy and I feel every coil rubbing as the block moves up.

I "cleaned up" the striker block spring hole hoping there was some slag or a burr but my needed.

I may also have a rough edge inside the slide striker block hole.

While I like the carry width in a IWB holster, this trigger press is not RIGHT for me.

ADDED:

I found a rough edge on the top edge of the striker block hole. I could run a edge along this rim and feel the roughness. I smoothed this edge, polished my striker block, put a little polish on the sear and my trigger now breaks at just under 8 lbs.

Still no where near what my 9c feels like.
 
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I've been on a waiting list for a new 40S&W Shield for quite a while. It finally came in at a LGS, so I went by and picked it up for $425+tax. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet, but I've noticed that the trigger pull is significantly heavier than the sample gun the LGS had. I measured it using my Lyman trigger pull gauge and it averages about 9Lbs, 12oz. Yes, I did check the SKU number which is 180020, so it's not the MA compliant model. Do the Shield triggers start out heavy and lighten up or am I looking at having to have the trigger worked on?

It should be right around 6-6.5 lbs. It will lighten a little with use but there is something not correct with that particular pistol.
 
FOLLOW UP

I bought a brand new Shield 9 from Kittery TP.

My trigger broke out of the box at a horrible 9+ lbs.

It stacked at the end and there was enough OT for my front sight to move causing follow through issues.

I took it apart and found roughness in the striker block hole in the slide. I cleaned up the roughness and polished on the striker block and sear and got my trigger to break at the 8 lbs range but with still a stacking feel at the end with the heavy OT snap.

I opted for the Apex Shield Carry Kit through Brownells. Did not want to pay but did not like my trigger either.

Install was easy.....first trigger break average was approx 6.5 lbs with no stacking trigger and no heavy snap at the end. My front sight stays put.

After numerous dry snaps.....my trigger averages just an ounce over 6 lbs.

And I have a very positive trigger reset click compared to my factory trigger 9c which has a decent break and required the APEX RAM for a better reset feel.

While I did not like the added expense of the trigger kit.....I was one of the unlucky ones with a horrible out of the box trigger.

I ruined my rear sight cosmetics trying to get it out as SW must have put it in with a 10,000 lbs press.....so I have been EYE balling the 10-8 rear for the Shield. Find a matching old man front sight for the 10-8.....and I think I have a keeper!

If you got a SHIELD with a horrible trigger....spend the extra on a drop in APEX CARRY KIT!
 
They are building these things 24/7 to keep up with demand. What if they ran out of the correct trigger spring, and had to choose between stopping the line for a few days, or using a stiffer spring to keep the line running. I've seen this happen many times in the car business. GARY
 
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