Because the hammer and trigger parts are difficult to source; it may be necessary to weld the sears and re-cut the notches. Vbull's #3 doesn't appear to be messed with; while the photo of the trigger on SergeantEllingsworth's makes the 'messing' obvious. I'll bet that SE's cylinder doesn't lock with the hammer down.
On this topic that Mike (Mmaher) presents, test if the cylinder locks up properly as it sits now, in the picture.
Some notes:
Non target models have a rebounding hammer. Factory Target models do NOT have a rebounding hammer. Yours should have a rebounding hammer. Therein, may be a point of misunderstanding about clicks and notches.
VBull, when the hammer is all the way down, pull the trigger and push the hammer forward and release to see if the rebound spring is working properly. You may have to slightly pull the hammer back a hair before you can push it forward (while pulling the trigger), perhaps, not.
Hammer should spring back freely to current position. At this position, it is designed NOT to unlatch (open). Note: the hammer should not push forward without first pulling the trigger.
Then, pull hammer a slight distance (about 2mms) back. It should click into a position where you should have the opening notch.
If that's OK, take one more picture (same as the other side view you posted) with the hammer all the way back to the lock / firing position.
While you are pulling the hammer back notice if the trigger position is more forward or further to the rear of where it now sits.
Notice if the cylinder is locking (or attempting to lock) in place with hammer back or if it has rotational play, or skips off the cylinder stop arm (the little "popper upper" on the inside of the bottom strap).
