New Mountain Gun owners - tell us

Wfevans4

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For those of you who own one of the new Lipsey’s Mountain Guns - tell us about them!

What do you like? Dislike? Quality control, accuracy, recoil, grips, holsters, type of ammo you’ve used, how are they compared to older MG? Feel free to post pictures.
 
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This is a friends 629 Mountain Gun and for starters the grips are superb. The action out of the box felt lighter than the normal running of the mill 629. Makes me wonder if the factory is tuning the actions like on a Performance Center action. I myself am planning on buying a 686 Mountain Gun as soon as MLGS can get one. I think Lipseys and S&W hit a home run with these two Models.IMG_5253.jpeg
 

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These models are getting bid up above asking price right now. Obviously there are bets being taken on these becoming collectables that will sit unused in a gun case somewhere. Too bad for those of us who really just want a decent firearm to shoot.
 
Had always regretted not getting the 686 Mountain when they first introduced the limited run many years ago, so had my LGS order the Lipsey when they were announced at SHOT this year. Came in a few weeks ago. Fit and finish are good, grips are plain but superb. Action is smoother than most other current production I've felt. NO endshake, carry-up is perfect. There is no key hole above the thumb piece (yay) but you can see a bearing or buffer plate alongside the left side of the hammer when you cock it, so there might be some of the lock parts in there. I've not taken the side plate off nor removed the lockwork (was a factory-trained department armorer back in the day when we carried them on duty) for the reasons listed below, in case I do wind up having to send it back; don't want to void the warranty.
But the brass bead is missing from the front sight; the back of the front sight blade is drilled for it, but it's not there nor anywhere in the box. It was difficult to open and close the cylinder, and it got harder, until I had to smack the cylinder with the palm of my hand to open it, and a light rap to close it. Long story short, it was a nasty burr on the inside face of the crane lock. Firing pin protrusion from the recoil plate is minimal, though I have no way to measure it (I have several dozen DA S&Ws of both hammer-mounted and frame-mounted pins, so have some basis for comparison). Yep, misfires at a rate of 10 to 15%. It's not the strain screw. I suspect another burr, in the tunnel, as the more I fire and dry fire the pistol the fewer misfires I seem to have ('course, I loaded up a bunch of .38's with Federal primers after the first set of misfires, which may be helping, as Feds tend to be softer or more sensitive IME).
This particular pistol should never have passed QC inspection, if such a thing remains at S&W. To their credit I emailed customer service and got a prompt and courteous reply, saying they would send a replacement front sight blade, complete with bead. After two weeks with no blade yet I emailed again, mentioning the issues as well (which I had not on the first contact; I really don't want to ship the gun back for fear of loss). A different but equally pleasant individual said the order was in queue, waiting for a sight blade to arrive in order to ship. No idea when. They also sent a call-tag even though I hadn't requested one, which I thought signaled a willingness to address the issues.
I have heard several credible reports of flawless Mt. Guns, so I believe this one is just one of those which rarely but inevitably slip through. Which I guess means you should inspect any particular pistol before purchase if you can (not possible in this case; the whole initial production run was pre-sold at SHOT, or so I am told). JME.
 
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My Mountain Gun has a front sight that is VERY tall, see pic for rear sight, light strikes approx 10%, a grip that initially was so bad Mr Tyler sent another pair (which are quite nice, and currently live on my 3" 66, because reliable primer breakers get the good grips ). The firing pin issue is very frustrating. At 1150, I think 100% ignition should be a low bar, but no. The pics below show the sights and grips, sights are properly zeroed. The second grip picture is the first set of grips that came on the gun. Regarding the front sight, I have other Patridge type bead sights from Smith, and they are all much shorter. Overall, I would not recommend this revolver for any serious use, because of the light primer strikes. I was super stoked for this gun, and honestly pretty disappointed that it is not reliable.
 

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Haven’t shot either yet. Hopefully doing so this weekend and will report back. Mine seem fine…better than a couple others I’ve seen posted, like in this thread….

IMG-2258.jpg
 
I’ve read other posts on new smiths with the light strike/short firing pin issue. Pretty concerning issue. Of all things to be done correctly on a firearm, it’s the ability to consistently strike a primer!
My 686 trigger feels noticeably lighter than a normal factory hammer and rebound spring. Feels exactly light the Wilson combat 10# configuration I've tried a couple times, with annoying results. I'll see what happens this weekend. I'll be pleasantly surprised if it goes off 100% of the time. If I had a choice between three different S&W’s to carry and double action trigger pulls were 10, 12, and 14lbs, I’d probably immediately eliminate the 10 pounder based on my experience. S&W triggers are like fine food, I think. If you adapt the trigger to the shooter you're probably degrading something.....
 
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Fit and finish on my 629 and 686 are very nice. I put 100 rounds through the 629 but have not shot the 686 yet. QC is lacking at S&W as they forgot to put "Mountain Gun " on the 686. The previous poster Tyler wood grips should never have left the factory. 20250517_083814.jpg
 

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Fit and finish on my 629 and 686 are very nice. I put 100 rounds through the 629 but have not shot the 686 yet. QC is lacking at S&W as they forgot to put "Mountain Gun " on the 686. The previous poster Tyler wood grips should never have left the factory.

FWIW, I think it actually looks better without the "Mountain Gun" laser engraving.
 
I have only shot my new 686 MG with Federal .357 158 grain JSP and Underwood 180 grain. With that very tall front sight, mine shoots way low, even as close as 15 yards. This, even with the rear sight cranked up about as far as it will go. I've ordered a shorter front from the guys at Dawson. The DA on mine is very smooth, SA is clean, carry up is solid, can't feel any end shake, grips are a plain Walnut but shaped and executed well. Still, the factory grips are pretty hard on my old wrist, and will be replaced with the Hogue "Tamer" type I use on a couple of my other revolvers that have a bit of recoil. Old age and a wrist injury have finally caught up with me;)

I'd not heard of the misfire issue; happy to report that I did not experience any. The mainspring in my example seems plenty strong, but I did notice that firing pin protrusion from the breech face appears very minimal. I'll certainly do further testing.
686-7 Mtn. Gun (2).JPG
 
I got one of the new 686-7 Mountain Guns as well. I haven't fired it yet, so the actual "moment of truth" is still pending, but overall first impressions are favorable. Finish was flawless; not a scratch on it, and fit is much better than another new production Smith and Wesson I have. Barrel/front sight is perfectly straight with the frame. It does have that gap on the side between the frame and the yoke others have noticed, but lockup is very tight and carry-up is correct. Action was a little gritty at first, but with a bit of dry firing became very smooth. The DA trigger pull weight definitely feels noticeably lighter than a 686-6 I have though...I might prefer it a bit heavier if this affects reliability.

The grips are perfect fit and finish-wise; I only switched them out for the Hogue due to practical purposes.

The cylinder gap on my example is 0.005"-0.006" (measured by holding cylinder to the rear and using feeler gauges).

I did notice some interesting structural/proportional differences when comparing the 686-7 mountain gun to a 2004 era 686-6. The rearward barrel extension containing the forcing cone of the 686-7 does not only have thicker walls than that of the 686-6, but also does not extend as far backwards as that of the 686-6 (it is more contained/"supported" within the frame). As a result, the distance from the rear face of that barrel extension to the breech face is longer in the 686-7, and the cylinder of the 686-7 is actually slightly longer than that of the 686-6 to compensate for this.
 

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I've only seen one 629 in person. Looked pretty nice but the grips were a poor fit with open seams. For the price I couldn't justify it...besides, I already have the OG's in every caliber with a couple of spares.
 
June 10, 2025

I received a response from Tony at Linpseys. Tony states: They (686+ Mountain Gun) are currently in production. But we (Lipseys) don’t have any in stock. Get on the order list at your local gun shop.

So I did.

I bought my first 686 in ‘85. Six inch. Later a four inch 686-4 was added. I love the whole Mtn Gun concept. Can’t wait!
 
I had not noticed it before mariner brought it up, but the cylinder of my 686 MG is .050" longer than the cylinder of my 686-5. And the portion of the barrel extending into the frame window is, necessarily, shorter. I can't conveniently measure the forcing cone area of the barrel, but it does appear larger in diameter on the MG, and the walls of the forcing cone do appear thicker. Learn something new every day. Longer cylinder, heavier forcing cone; I like it..
L-Frames (6).JPG
 
I didn’t measure the cylinder, but is it visibly larger in the frame window. The forcing cone shank through the frame is visibly short, and thickness is greater compared to others 686’s in my safe dating from 1980 to about 1994. This falls in line with what Lipseys and Smith have said on YouTube videos. They claim it’s the strongest 686 Smith has made….if I remember correctly. That recall goes back to January so apologies if I’m misquoting them.
 
This is my favorite 357 bullet. It’s a Lyman. I can’t remember the number. But it’s 173 grains, an Elmer Keith design. It barely fits in my -4. This load doesn’t work I’m a new Python. It’s too long.
Good to know it’ll work in the new gun. If I ever get it.

* Edit. That load is also too long for my 27-5. Yet another reason to prefer a 686.
 

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Back when I was loading .357 ammunition, I was not a fan of the short cylinders of the Colt .357s and S&W 27s and 28s. I always had to be careful of the OAL with some bullets; never an issue with K or L frame S&Ws. My 3~5~7 Colt revolver's cylinder is 1.560" long, my 27-2 is 1.570", when the recess for cartridge rims is subtracted. The new MG cylinder of my example is 1.675". I no longer shoot .357 enough to bother about loading for it, and all the factory ammo I've tried fits my .357 revolvers without issue, short cylinders or not..

When the large/N frame S&Ws and .41 frame Colts were developed, there was no .357 Magnum cartridge, so I'm guessing the shorter cylinders were not considered an issue by manufacturers. So when the .357 came along, it was just economically advantageous for manufacturers to retain the shorter cylinder lengths and just ream them a bit deeper...
 

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