When you look for stocks you might find a set of rubbers from Hogue, usually pretty cheap, as that .41 Magnum packs a punch to your hand. Okay, maybe just my hand! Show us how it cleaned up when you're done. I like that gun for what it is, and I bet you'll be surprised how it looks when you're done. I think I saw you said it's an H frame. Did you miss the N key or did I learn something new? Either way, I like that gun.
New Revolver.... .41 Model 58..
- Thread starter pbureau66
- Start date
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
I would suggest a 210 grain LSWC at 950 fps. Great self defense load and much more manageable than hunting loads.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Now that is a beauty and thank you for sharing.
OP:
If I had that gun it would be stripped down, cleaned and given a long bath in Metal Rescue. This would remove all rust and do wonders for it and make it ready for some polishing. Normally I would say not to soak the hammer, trigger or any blued parts.
If I had that gun it would be stripped down, cleaned and given a long bath in Metal Rescue. This would remove all rust and do wonders for it and make it ready for some polishing. Normally I would say not to soak the hammer, trigger or any blued parts.
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Hair Trigger
US Veteran
You can get a Letter (and you should) for your revolver from S&W Historical Foundation. It costs $100 and you get it here:
Letter Request Form
Factory ammo for the .41 Magnum is limited and usually expensive. Starline makes brass for it and Hornady has a 210 grain JHP, some other mfgs have bullets available. Lots of loading data available on the net
Much good advice in several posts. Give the gun a good cleaning, find a set of grips that fit your hand and go shoot the gun. It was given that finish with the "gold" highlights for a reason. Perhaps some of your relatives could give the back story on the gun. 41 Mag ammo can be found, check
ammoseek.com for any deals. It will always have the wear and blemishes so you might as well enjoy it.
G2
ammoseek.com for any deals. It will always have the wear and blemishes so you might as well enjoy it.
G2
Short answer is however long it takes. Both Metal Rescue and Evapo-Rust work slowly and they are safe to use. I pull the parts out every few hours and help the process with brushes etc. and check to make sure all is fine but it could take a couple days total to get all the rust out of any pits. Both will remove rust regardless where it is, including under the plating if it is there and if it can get to it. It will also remove bluing and case hardening.
I have used Metal Rescue the most and it seems to leave less black residue, which can be cleaned off as you go. I would test it on some tools or whatever to get comfortable with it.
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Doug M.
Member
Ammo can vary by use and your tolerance. As noted, the 950-ish fps with 210-ish SWC is a pretty good all around load. Not obnoxious, but adequate for SD against humans and most critters; maybe not bears. I suspect it would be enough for hunting deer. The SWC shape is among the best for all around use; good enough penetration and impact.
One can load that round pretty hot. I carried Silvertips as a duty load for quite awhile; 175 grains at about 1200. Amply stout, but controllable. My first LEOSA qual the only ammo I had that could be used at that indoor range was stupid hot JHPs, I think Gold dots. I didn't do too badly, but I'd have to work a lot harder to satisfy my standards. I also have some hot and heavy SWCs that I got for a trip to Kodiak that fell through. No interest AT ALL in shooting them.
The factory grips might not be great for shooting, and probably not worth the hunt for that reason. My M58 lost those grips almost immediately, replaced with Pachmyers. I came into firearms at a time when the replacement of grips was pretty much the norm. Most wood grips are not user friendly for serious use. I think my K38 is the only set of factory wood grips I have and use.
One can load that round pretty hot. I carried Silvertips as a duty load for quite awhile; 175 grains at about 1200. Amply stout, but controllable. My first LEOSA qual the only ammo I had that could be used at that indoor range was stupid hot JHPs, I think Gold dots. I didn't do too badly, but I'd have to work a lot harder to satisfy my standards. I also have some hot and heavy SWCs that I got for a trip to Kodiak that fell through. No interest AT ALL in shooting them.
The factory grips might not be great for shooting, and probably not worth the hunt for that reason. My M58 lost those grips almost immediately, replaced with Pachmyers. I came into firearms at a time when the replacement of grips was pretty much the norm. Most wood grips are not user friendly for serious use. I think my K38 is the only set of factory wood grips I have and use.
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If it was mine: FORDS in Crystal River, Florida
so, I took it apart and cleaned it and did a little inspection of each worn parts and comes to two conclusions, the pitting on the metal isn't as deep as I assumed it was, so metal rescue bath is in its future. secondly someone has definitely fired this gun before and put it way probably because of the modification they did to the rebound slide spring (seems they cut 1.5 turns too much making it short and barely touching the post it should be pressing against, as well I discovered the rebound slide pin is entirely missing from the assembly. cheap parts I hope to replace. Aside all this, the gun seems to be in a decent firing shape.
Grips: I will find something I can utilize for range shooting; I am not a bear or deer revolver hunter I prefer Moose and Caribou myself and those I hunt with a rifle and iron sights.
Anyone know a good place for parts for N frame? I read though on the S&W part listing the spring and pin I am looking at is identical among the K, L and N frames so I hope it will be easier to find than grips.
Grips: I will find something I can utilize for range shooting; I am not a bear or deer revolver hunter I prefer Moose and Caribou myself and those I hunt with a rifle and iron sights.
Anyone know a good place for parts for N frame? I read though on the S&W part listing the spring and pin I am looking at is identical among the K, L and N frames so I hope it will be easier to find than grips.
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Yea, as ammo goes, it depends on what you are doing with the gun. I'm looking at my box of Barnes VOR-TX, 180 gr. XBP HP It comes smoking out of the barrel at 1520 fps. I have also used Silvertips (forget the weight). The Barnes will take care of most any thing you encounter on the streets and maybe in the woods.
If you are talking about the pin inside the rebound spring, it's just an over travel stop. They are fitted to the gun at the factory and I usually just leave them out. I can never remember which way the flat side goes anyway.
If it was my revolver I would send it to Fords and have it refinished. Fords does a better refinish then S&W.
thank you for that clarification, though refinishing the nickel on the revolver is not at time on my priorities to do.
Just to be clear about the rebound spring and pin; the spring being too short prevent the return travel of the trigger after depressing it to fire a shot, thus why I need to replace it
As for the rebound pin inside the assembly. all videos I have seen about this indicate the pin should be there.
I am only going by what little information I have been discovering through hundreds of web pages, and videos on the subject, yes I assume it was removed for a reason, if someone can enlighten me why the rebound pin located inside the rebound spring should be ignored and not replaced I would love to learn from an explanation.
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