New S&W 1006 and A Few Concerns

[SoulLessGinger]

Just picked up a low mileage S&W 1006. I'd tell you how much but I'm new here, and don't want you guys to start off hating me

After function testing it and taking it to the range for a test fire (everything works as it should), the first thing I did when I got it home was detail strip it to bare frame and slide. I know the gun's history pretty well and know the previous owner didn't fire it much (rheumatoid arthritis). Once inside, it looked about how I expected it to. Here she is buck naked:

Let me start by saying that I am a tinkerer and a pretty fair home gunsmith, but by no means a pro. Also, when I buy a gun, half the fun of having it for me is messing with it and getting it smooth and running the way I want.

The first time I disassembled it was not easy...at all, but I got through it ok. Definitely not for the faint of heart. I did some light stoning/polishing on the trigger bar and it's cutout in the frame, polished the firing pin and its channel, and all the other safe spots one would hit in trigger job (didn't mess with the hammer or sear angles or even polish anything on their engagement surfaces). Also removed the ejector depressor since this will be a range gun only, and won't be pulling any HD or CCW duty.

I also dressed a massive burr that was making the mag release gritty.

A few concerns, though, maybe you guys can help me with:
1. The safety/de-cocker is gritty as hell. Not smooth in the least. The safety/de-cocker barrel and the whole area of the slide that it rides in is very roughly machined. Is there anything I can do about it? Or should I just live with it.

2. The recoil spring is about an inch longer than the #20lb spring that came with the Wilson spring kit I ordered for it. I would have expected an 18lb spring to be shorter, especially after all this time in storage. Is that normal, or is this an aftermarket spring. Also, the mainspring looks different than the other springs in the gun (it's bright and shiny) is it possible this is an aftermarket spring as well.

3. The exterior of the gun is flawless, but inside, the machining in general is kind of rough. And the tool marks on the hammer face and breechface are like nothing I've seen this side of a Makarov. Is this normal? Would stoning those areas be worthwhile (they don't seem to affect function at all).

I have a few other more serious issues with the hammer strut and extractor that I found, but those will have to be a topic for another day as this post is too long already and it's getting late. Thanks in advance.

 

[XTrooper]

After function testing it and taking it to the range for a test fire (everything works as it should)...........

This statement of yours should be the end of any and all concerns. There's a reason for the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Does it go BANG every time you pull the trigger? That's all you need to worry about. Put it back together and enjoy it.

 

[SoulLessGinger]

This statement of yours should be the end of any and all concerns. There's a reason for the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Does it go BANG every time you pull the trigger? That's all you need to worry about. Put it back together and enjoy it.

I prefer the old adage: If it ain't broke, fix it till it is

The bent hammer strut is going to need some attention, but no, you're right, otherwise the gun runs fine...I just like to work on guns, so anything I can do to make it better to me is worth it.

 

[squidsix]

Not to be the voice of dissent here, but this is your gun. Do what you want with it.
The safety can be made to be smoother by polishing the barrel of the safety body. The only problem is that this makes it somewhat TOO easy to manipulate. The other choice is to run a lighter spring in the safety detent. I actually went so far as to put a small bur on the safety body after I polished mine because it was too easy to place on safe when slingshotting the slide.
I also found that clipping to coils off the mainspring gave the double action trigger a remarkable better feel, and still never one light primer strike. This is my number one item: remove trigger bar and clean it up. The trigger bars on these are ROUGH.

 

[SoulLessGinger]

Not to be the voice of dissent here, but this is your gun. Do what you want with it.
The safety can be made to be smoother by polishing the barrel of the safety body. The only problem is that this makes it somewhat TOO easy to manipulate. The other choice is to run a lighter spring in the safety detent. I actually went so far as to put a small bur on the safety body after I polished mine because it was too easy to place on safe when slingshotting the slide.
I also found that clipping to coils off the mainspring gave the double action trigger a remarkable better feel, and still never one light primer strike. This is my number one item: remove trigger bar and clean it up. The trigger bars on these are ROUGH.

Thanks for the reply. I hear you on the safety body, that's why I asked before jumping right on it, I had a feeling that that could be an issue. I guess I'll just try a really light polish with some Flitz.

In regards to the mainspring, I bought a few spring kits to try out, but it would help to know what springs are in it now to have a point of reference (I have a feeling they aren't stock). Since I reload and can just use softer primers, my concern with the lighter mainspring isn't really light strikes, it's the beating the gun might take from the increased slide velocity. I'll definitely expiriment with it though.

 

[S&w 908]

That is a very nice looking Smith! How much did she set you back? If you don't mind me asking.

 

[586nickel]

Very nice! Love those rabbit ear rear adjustable sights!!!

 

[SoulLessGinger]

That is a very nice looking Smith! How much did she set you back? If you don't mind me asking.

I'll say it was less than $600 , and bought from the original owner who rarely shot it. It came in the original box with the receipt from Wal-Mart and a box of Silvertips.

Although cosmetically it is mint, and it shoots great, it has a few minor issues that will need to be resolved before I shoot it anymore. The hammer strut is bent slightly, and the ejector looks like hell (you can see it in the Gunsmithing section). The trigger play spring will also have to be replaced.

I have been lusting after a 1006 for a while, and although I really wanted more of a beater, this one just fell into my lap and I couldn't pass it up.

 

[SoulLessGinger]

This is my number one item: remove trigger bar and clean it up. The trigger bars on these are ROUGH.

You said it! I just wish I'd taken some before and after pics. I got it polished up nicely with a hard arkansas and then some Mother's. I also polished the channel it rides in.

Trigger is smooth now except that the bent hammer strut is rubbing on the inside of one of the hammer hooks, causing some grittiness that I couldn't feel before over all the other grit.

 

[S&w 908]

Excellent deal! I don't "need" another gun, but I think I'll be getting one real soon!

 

[SoulLessGinger]

Excellent deal! I don't "need" another gun, but I think I'll be getting one real soon!

I highly recommend it. S&W should never have stopped making the 3rd gen autos.

 

[Shadow1006]

SoulLessGinger, Congrats! I love my S&W1006 as much as the rest of the 10xx series of 3rd generation pistols...I also like the conversion barrels(Bar-Sto Match Grade 40S&W & 9x25Dillon) to add flexability to shooting from this well build platform!

Bad_Man_1 from this site is in the process of producing some conversion barrels for the 10xx series of 3rd gen. pistols as I type. I have a few barrels ordered to add to my collection for 5.00" and 4.25" models.

Best of luck and regards!

 

[SoulLessGinger]

Definitely interested, but after buying the gun, some stuff for it, and having the AC at my house (In Florida, mind you) break down this week, it isn't the greatest time. Hope he still has some in a few weeks.