NEW S&W 686-6 PLUS - Super DIRTY

[JayHutch]

I'm generally not a complainer & I know - they test fire 'em at the factory & that's a good thing. But I just bought a brand new 686-6 Plus at a large dealer in NE Ohio, and it was unbelievably dirty. Manufacture date from box = March 2012. Only 6 mo old. I expected to clean the barrel/cylinder, etc, and detail like you would any new weapon. I assumed (we know what that does to you & me) the fouling would be limited to a few rounds. The dealer assured me it had never been fired, other than factory. I wasn't gonna break down the revolver, but boy I'm glad I did!! This is a little long, but some may want to be aware. If you haven't broken yours down, DO IT. Or take it to a competent gunsmith and have it done.

Moderator - if this should be in Gunsmithing/maintenance, please feel free to move.

I'm attaching some before & after pic's so you don't think I'm exaggerating. Sorry they aren't perfect focus. (iPhone camera in upset hands) I only went ahead and broke it down because the double action didn't seem as smooth as I've felt at gun shows. Opening the cylinder even was a bit "sticky" on the yoke. I'm such a chump, and wanted it so badly, I bought it anyway. I know its new production and not quite as sweet as an old one, but . . .

I had already cleaned the barrel, cylinder, etc- then I went ahead and took a look at the guts. S&W not recommended, but I know how to do so carefully. Man-O-shevits it was awful in there. I really should have packed it up in parts and gone back to the dealer. I'm sure Smith & Wesson would have replaced this 686-6 PLUS. I usually can tell the diff between dried lube and rust/corrosion. OK, by now you can tell this is a guy with too much time on his hands. Not.

Inside the Yoke was just plain nasty. Rust & gunk. Where the yoke set screw rests (end of yoke) was the worst. This was sitting in a display case, not under water. Likewise inside behind the cylinder release bar and in all the corners and angles of the frame. Note the pic's. These are the t-shirt cotton patches from cleaning inside the FRAME ONLY. I already threw away the others. I really couldn't believe it but was already elbow deep so I continued. Also was corrosion and gunk where the rebound slide & spring ride on the frame and behind the trigger. No wonder the trigger wasn't as smooth as expected. OK - enough with the complaining. What did I do?

Cleaned it for over 2 hours with cotton t-shirt patches, swabs, solvent and Eezox. Eezox is AMAZING stuff. A true CLP & leaves behind a nice dry lube film. Kind of a pain since you have to leave the first couple applications dry overnight, but it's perfect for revolvers or EDC. I digress - Look at those rags. That just ain't right.

Think I got it all, and have now properly "bonded" with my new 686-6 Plus. Also looked like someone at the retailer had maybe rubbed/cleaned exterior with a paper towel. Micro scratches every which way, so I broke out the Mothers Mag paste and went to work for another hour. Then stripped off the film and re-Eezox'ed the exterior. Turned out pretty good, but WOW, what a lot of work for a brand new S&W.

Anyone else ever experience this? How does one leave the S&W factory this way? Love the 686, but this was unacceptable in anyone's book, but she sure looks good now. Sorry for the Ohio State hat - couldn't resist and it looks so good with the finished 686. By the way - the EEZOX helps keep fingerprinting down on that polished stainless. Any thought welcome. (oops - only 5 pic's allowed. Will post a followup in a minute with the two "after" shots.

 

[JayHutch]

NEW S&W 686-6 PLUS - Super CLEAN

Needed to include all 5 pic's in previous post to demonstrate how bad that new 686-6 plus came from S&W/dealer. Here are the two "after" pic's. Again, I apologize for the Ohio State stocking cap, but you gotta admit it its a great combination with the finished 686.

 

[mag318]

Saying it was dirty is an understatement. I was looking at a new 3" 686+ at my dealers and it had the same light scratch marks and was oozing dirt.
I passed on the new 686 and found a used one that was 2 decades old and looked and felt better. Unfortunately this isn't the same S&W from years ago when they took pride in what left the factory. You should not have had to toil for hours on a new revolver. That said your 686 looks great now and looks better than the current S&W new.

 

[JayHutch]

Ohhhh - I love that finish on yours. That's the finish I had hoped for on mine. Shiny is OK, but I prefer what you have. May I ask what you had to pay for that one, and the bonus of w/o the ILS stuff? If I ran across that one, I'd buy it in a minute and sell mine. Is that a stock stainless finish or do you think it was re-done?

 

[TrueTexan]

Just bought A 686 plus 3 inch from cabellas and it was claen still broke it down and clean and lube it.

 

[JayHutch]

And was it a mess inside, or didn't you break open the case Texan?

 

[fclef63]

Wow. That IS Bad. Makes me want to take my 3" apart and check it.
Regards, Pete

 

[Dale53]

JayHutch;
Yes, the revolver should have been clean - no argument there. However, look at the bright side. You now KNOW your revolver is clean and properly lubricated and you can certainly pat yourself on the back for a job well done! You saved yourself a wad of money (having a custom gunsmith to do the work) or aggravation (sending it back to the factory).

You took a lemon and made lemonade out of it. Now, take it to the range and get it DIRTY!!>)).

Dale53

 

[ssnow]

What dealer? I'm in NE Ohio too…

Two big dealers/ranges I know of run their rentals through an ultrasonic cleaner. Guessing your 686 had a trip through one of those. I've never seen a new revolver that dirty.

Anyway, not an ideal situation… but looks like no harm done. Looks great, enjoy!

 

[ladyT]

I was looking at one at Academy and I asked them if it was used. The darn thing was filthy. They are apparently coming from the factory in that condition.

 

[Frank237]

Thats nothing.....

I did get it a bit dirtier with a few hundred .38's.

 

[JayHutch]

Thats nothing.....

I did get it a bit dirtier with a few hundred .38's.

__________

HA! I heard that Frank. Mines gonna be real dirty very very soon. Beautiful Performance Center piece by the way.

 

[627 city hunter]

I'm generally not a complainer & I know - they test fire 'em at the factory & that's a good thing. But I just bought a brand new 686-6 Plus at a large dealer in NE Ohio, and it was unbelievably dirty. Manufacture date from box = March 2012. Only 6 mo old. I expected to clean the barrel/cylinder, etc, and detail like you would any new weapon. I assumed (we know what that does to you & me) the fouling would be limited to a few rounds. The dealer assured me it had never been fired, other than factory. I wasn't gonna break down the revolver, but boy I'm glad I did!! This is a little long, but some may want to be aware. If you haven't broken yours down, DO IT. Or take it to a competent gunsmith and have it done.

Moderator - if this should be in Gunsmithing/maintenance, please feel free to move.

I'm attaching some before & after pic's so you don't think I'm exaggerating. Sorry they aren't perfect focus. (iPhone camera in upset hands) I only went ahead and broke it down because the double action didn't seem as smooth as I've felt at gun shows. Opening the cylinder even was a bit "sticky" on the yoke. I'm such a chump, and wanted it so badly, I bought it anyway. I know its new production and not quite as sweet as an old one, but . . .

I had already cleaned the barrel, cylinder, etc- then I went ahead and took a look at the guts. S&W not recommended, but I know how to do so carefully. Man-O-shevits it was awful in there. I really should have packed it up in parts and gone back to the dealer. I'm sure Smith & Wesson would have replaced this 686-6 PLUS. I usually can tell the diff between dried lube and rust/corrosion. OK, by now you can tell this is a guy with too much time on his hands. Not.

Inside the Yoke was just plain nasty. Rust & gunk. Where the yoke set screw rests (end of yoke) was the worst. This was sitting in a display case, not under water. Likewise inside behind the cylinder release bar and in all the corners and angles of the frame. Note the pic's. These are the t-shirt cotton patches from cleaning inside the FRAME ONLY. I already threw away the others. I really couldn't believe it but was already elbow deep so I continued. Also was corrosion and gunk where the rebound slide & spring ride on the frame and behind the trigger. No wonder the trigger wasn't as smooth as expected. OK - enough with the complaining. What did I do?

Cleaned it for over 2 hours with cotton t-shirt patches, swabs, solvent and Eezox. Eezox is AMAZING stuff. A true CLP & leaves behind a nice dry lube film. Kind of a pain since you have to leave the first couple applications dry overnight, but it's perfect for revolvers or EDC. I digress - Look at those rags. That just ain't right.

Think I got it all, and have now properly "bonded" with my new 686-6 Plus. Also looked like someone at the retailer had maybe rubbed/cleaned exterior with a paper towel. Micro scratches every which way, so I broke out the Mothers Mag paste and went to work for another hour. Then stripped off the film and re-Eezox'ed the exterior. Turned out pretty good, but WOW, what a lot of work for a brand new S&W.

Anyone else ever experience this? How does one leave the S&W factory this way? Love the 686, but this was unacceptable in anyone's book, but she sure looks good now. Sorry for the Ohio State hat - couldn't resist and it looks so good with the finished 686. By the way - the EEZOX helps keep fingerprinting down on that polished stainless. Any thought welcome. (oops - only 5 pic's allowed. Will post a followup in a minute with the two "after" shots.

Dude, I have shot 1200+ rnds through my 627 pro. This feigns in comparison to the old dogs here.

I have been very curious about my internals as well...

 

[jaymoore]

Sounds like some of the old horror stories about 1970s vintage Smiths.

Most standard revolvers leave S&W with three rounds fired but not cleaned. The internals usually have some sort of preservative oil that's not very attractive. But sometimes folk have found grit and swarf and other nasties inside. I got one years ago that had something that looked like valve grinding compound in the guts (if it was it was very mild in comparison to the real thing).

Generally not a bad idea to at least flush the internals and spray in some good lubricant if you're not inclined to disassemble your new purchase. But they generally don't REALLY need it.

BTW, I've found much worse in old Smiths. Yuck! But good ones are good regardless of the nasties.

 

[TrueTexan]

And was it a mess inside, or didn't you break open the case Texan?

Broke open the case flushed clean and lube just to make sure all is well. Do that on any or old gun I acquire.

 

[mag318]

Ohhhh - I love that finish on yours. That's the finish I had hoped for on mine. Shiny is OK, but I prefer what you have. May I ask what you had to pay for that one, and the bonus of w/o the ILS stuff? If I ran across that one, I'd buy it in a minute and sell mine. Is that a stock stainless finish or do you think it was re-done?

Jay, I walked into a LGS and this 686 had a price tag of $500. As I was talking to the shop owner he said he'd take $450 for it. I couldn't get my wallet open fast enough. The finish is original but it didn't have the original grips, it came with Pachs on it which I immedietely switched for a set of smooth factory target grips. Though 20 years old the revolver was in excellent condition with a wonderfully smooth action. Goes nicely with my Model 17.

 

[JayHutch]

Jay, I walked into a LGS and this 686 had a price tag of $500. As I was talking to the shop owner he said he'd take $450 for it. I couldn't get my wallet open fast enough. The finish is original but it didn't have the original grips, it came with Pachs on it which I immedietely switched for a set of smooth factory target grips. Though 20 years old the revolver was in excellent condition with a wonderfully smooth action. Goes nicely with my Model 17.

Beautiful 686 Mag! First one I see in that condition under $600 is sold.

 

[mag318]

Jay, they are out there but I think finding them is just a matter of being in the right place at the right time. I got lucky with this one.

 

[rawdawg]

I have a really unusual 686-4 that has the local gun shops stumped. I apologize for jumping in on this thread but I just joined today and haven't figured out how to post yet. My subject is a stainless 686-4 that I can find no photos of anywhere on the web and it is not listed in any of the model identification books used by the local shops. I was able to track some info down by S&W product code and this is what I found. It is a 686-4 from the Performance Center manufactured in 1994. It is an L-frame with a seven shot non-fluted cylinder in .357 with a 6" ported barrel. I believe Smith called that Magna Porting. The barrel has a integrated scope mount from the factory. It is non-lockable with the firing pin on the hammer. The front sight is a Hi Viz orange and has Hogue grips with the Smith logo. Rear sights are fully adjustable. It has .357 Magnum Hunter etched on the barrel. The product code on the factory box is 170086. I believe this was a limited production run of 200 for a national distributor, RSR. This revolver is brand new, still in the factory wrapping and has never been fired. It is truly unique and has a fantastic trigger in both single and DA. I want to sell or trade for a upper end 1911 Kimber or Colt but I need to determine the value of it first and since it is such a unique piece, I need some help in evaluating it. I can be reached through the forum , my email [email protected] or landline 229 244 2902 Ed . I can send pics if you send me a email address. I'm really computer illiterate so bear with me Any help you guys can give me will really be appreciated.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Ed, my SCSW says As New In Box is $510, but it is several years old. Your product code reads "6" 7 shot GB Hunter for RSR." There is no premium listed for variations. I would guess your Kimber or Colt is more valuable than that gun. However, posting pictures here will help those more knowledgeable help you. You can also check on gunbroker.com, gunsameria.com and gunsinternational.com for completed auctions for valuations. I would start a new thread going forward.