Space_lizard
Member
I was wondering what everyone views as the basic smithing necessary for a new revolver to run smooth or just better in general?
New Smith
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proper cleaning and oiling after use......and lots of use!!!
OP
Space_lizard
Member
That's the goal now I just need my LGS to provide some food for it.
ContinentalOp
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Clean, lube, do some dry firing, and shoot a few hundred rounds. Presuming the gun is reliable and shoots fairly well, you'll be in a better position to judge whether or not any gunsmith enhancing is necessary.
While it can certainly be fun to customize guns just because you can, you'd probably be better off establishing a baseline of performance with the stock gun before having any work done, and any work done should address specific issues.
Just my opinion.
While it can certainly be fun to customize guns just because you can, you'd probably be better off establishing a baseline of performance with the stock gun before having any work done, and any work done should address specific issues.
Just my opinion.
For "just better in general" check out the Jerry Miculek video "Trigger Job". That will show you how to obtain a trigger that feels like it has fired 10,000 rounds in a couple of pleasant hours of smoothing parts. Much easier on the trigger finger and gives you a nice intimate knowledge of how your S&W works. For most of my smoothing I use 2500 grit 3M wet/dry paper mounted on a thick glass plate. You only want to polish off the high spots and 2500 will keep you from going too deeply into MIM parts which don't need much of a polish. The Jerry Kuhnhausen manual "The S&W Revolvers" is also a help if you want to get a wee bit further into it.
Stu
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Stu
Jason Demond
Member
If your new revolver came from the factory without issue. The only items you really need as far as gunsmithing items go, is a good set of hollow ground screwdrivers.
You don't have to take the side plate off, or dink around with the internals at all. You just need to be able to take the grips off the gun, as well as be able to adjust your sights. On the other hand. If you are one to go into a gun like I am, a small nylon mallet and rebound spring tool are worthy items to have. I would advise anyone that has any kind of reservations about taking the side plate off, to just not do it unless you know what you are doing.
If you are interested in more info on your gun, or how they work. The Jerry Kuhnhausen books are a must have.
You don't have to take the side plate off, or dink around with the internals at all. You just need to be able to take the grips off the gun, as well as be able to adjust your sights. On the other hand. If you are one to go into a gun like I am, a small nylon mallet and rebound spring tool are worthy items to have. I would advise anyone that has any kind of reservations about taking the side plate off, to just not do it unless you know what you are doing.
If you are interested in more info on your gun, or how they work. The Jerry Kuhnhausen books are a must have.
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I would give new gun owners the same advise as I'd give new motorcycle or new car owners......
Drive the hell out of it BEFORE doing anything! Most guns that are properly fit and assembled but just stiff will wear in, loosen up and slick up as they are shot. Unless there is a specific problem (if so - send it back to S&W) shooting it will usually do the trick.
If after 1,000 rounds you still feel the need to slick it up or lighten it up even more, then there are certainly options, but shooting it in the very beginning is the best thing you can do IMO.
Drive the hell out of it BEFORE doing anything! Most guns that are properly fit and assembled but just stiff will wear in, loosen up and slick up as they are shot. Unless there is a specific problem (if so - send it back to S&W) shooting it will usually do the trick.
If after 1,000 rounds you still feel the need to slick it up or lighten it up even more, then there are certainly options, but shooting it in the very beginning is the best thing you can do IMO.
