New Springs

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I put the spring kit from Wolfe in my 60 no dash today. The reduced hammer spring and the lightest of the three return springs. Function dry firing is noticeably lighter.
Did I shot myself in the foot? I'm off to the range tomorrow to see about reliable shooting.
 
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You won't know until you shoot it.

If this is a self defense gun, make sure you run some of your self defense ammo through it.

Also, be aware that lighter rebound springs make it easier to short-stroke the trigger, so keep on eye on that.
 
I have found that the stock hammer spring and 14lb trigger spring to be the best set up in my 686+, M29, M25 and M17 Lighter than this caused light strikes on the primer. No good for my purpose.
 
I have had good results using Wolfe 8lb mainsprings in J-frame .38 special revolvers provided that everything else is in spec. Other critical areas which can contribute to misfires include, but are not limited to: firing pin length and protrusion, endshake, headspace, and friction on the hammer or firing pin. If reliability is critical, then I inspect the whole gun with a focus on these areas.

When you test new springs, it is important to be aware that primer sensitivity can vary by brand. Federal primers are generally the most sensitive. If I am doing testing to insure a strong primer strike, then I do not bother including Federal ammo. The primers in Remington UMC ammo require a moderately hard strike, so I include them in testing. However, I do not know if Remington primers are really the hardest, so I include a variety of other ammo as well.
 
Don't be surprised if your firing pin bounces off the primer, and you're back in the gun swapping springs. Been there, done that. It's all in good fun for the tinkerer. If you are carrying this gun, it needs to work 100% obviously and trigger jerk due to heavy spring weight does not have a huge impact on target at self defense ranges, and can be trained away.

I assume by "st pete fla" you are in warm weather. If you carry this gun in colder weather, I implore you use heavier springs.
 
Hope you have 100 percent function with your gun. I have a model 65 with a nice smooth trigger pull that gave light strikes, after installing a NEW Mainspring it has a heavier trigger pull but only a few more range sessions will tell if it is reliable.
 
Comparing my 60-4 with the 60 no dash the 60 was quite heavy. Now I know the wider Target Trigger may have contributed to the feel for the trigger pull weight. (double action) Now they feel about equal.
The only thing done to the 60-4 was a S&W rep at a LGS fluff-n-buff. No tools or stones used. Just a swipe on some wet/dry cloth, which I doubt did a thing to lower the trigger pull.
This is not a self defense gun. My (oh heavens) Glock 26 has that job exclusively.
I'm waiting for the warm up next week for a range trip, just too windy today.
 
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I also changed to Wolfe springs in my 686 and loaded ammo with Federal primers but I did not get 100% satisfaction. Too many light strikes on the first go-around but fired on the second strike. I have ordered an "extra-long" firing pin (15 thou longer) just for something to do. I have seen videos where Jerry M. filed down the end of the strain screw to reduce poundage on the hammer spring. I've got all winter to test.
 
Testing can get expensive, and I wouldn't rest easy with a carry pistol unless I had a few hundred consecutive rounds without incident. I second the recommendation on federal primers though. I have a m28 that someone did some trigger work on, and it is very light and smooth but is not reliable with anything but federal primers. With federal primers, I've never had a light strike.

I have a m17, one of my first S&W revolvers, that I had the local gun smith work on. He's fairly well known for rifle work in Florida, but not so much on pistol work. The 17 came back so light I cannot believe it is so reliable. The single action must be about 2 - 2.5 lbs, but I've never had a misfire; the double action is super low, too, and I will occasionally get a light strike, but it is rare.

I normally stone the rebound slide and install a 14# rebound spring, but often go to 15# when I don't like the feel of the return. I don't normally mess with much else as results are so varied, but I've done work on my two j-frame 22s, a model 35 and 63. Both got new springs and polishing. Both are far better than they were and both are as reliable as when I got them.
 
I used the J Miculek Spring kit and then set the trigger pull according to the suggestions on his video of the installation process. My revolver will not fire most purchased ammo now, but I reload, and it will fire the federal primers 100% of the time (so far). I also did not use the strain screw, but replaced it with a socket set screw and blue thread locker. This worked well for me.

NOTE: I had to grind a chamfer into the end of the set screw, but recently found a set screw with a full ball end, and am planning to replace the existing screw if the correct size is available in quantities of one or two.

Socket Products | Socket Set Screws | Full Ball Point Socket Set Screws - GlobalIndustrial.com
 
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