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bobthewelder

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I just picked up a like enw 1981 vintage model 36 for doing some work for a friend. I reload, and have always been a 1911 kinda guy, but for a CCW, and my odd shape even my LW Commander was too much to carry. I love this Model 36, and just shot several different handloads from it. At 7 yards it shot right where I wanted it to. I loaded 50 rounds of 158 Gr. LRN over 3.8gr. of Titegroup. Dirty, but accurate. I also loaded the same using Speer Gold Dots at 158 grain. They didn't have the 135 r. short barrel bullets in stock. They shot also very well, and to the point of aim. I also did 10 rounds of the Gold Dots over 6 grains of Power Pistol, and actually like this round. I will have to try it again, and with my chronograph. I need a tripod for it. I also have a jar of Universal, but hate the way it meters from my thrower, it grinds and crunches. I also have some W-296, but everything I have read says to stay away from it. This little pistol is great, fits in the watch pocket of my jeans and is easily covered up. I have yet to find an autoloader I can do this with, at least one that shoots a round worth shooting. The Power Pisol load is listed as +P with Hornaday XTP of the same weight, and I know I shouldn't be using this high a charge in a non +P rated gun, but it was built in 1981, not 1961, so I hope not to damage the gun.
 
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I just picked up a like enw 1981 vintage model 36 for doing some work for a friend. I reload, and have always been a 1911 kinda guy, but for a CCW, and my odd shape even my LW Commander was too much to carry. I love this Model 36, and just shot several different handloads from it. At 7 yards it shot right where I wanted it to. I loaded 50 rounds of 158 Gr. LRN over 3.8gr. of Titegroup. Dirty, but accurate. I also loaded the same using Speer Gold Dots at 158 grain. They didn't have the 135 r. short barrel bullets in stock. They shot also very well, and to the point of aim. I also did 10 rounds of the Gold Dots over 6 grains of Power Pistol, and actually like this round. I will have to try it again, and with my chronograph. I need a tripod for it. I also have a jar of Universal, but hate the way it meters from my thrower, it grinds and crunches. I also have some W-296, but everything I have read says to stay away from it. This little pistol is great, fits in the watch pocket of my jeans and is easily covered up. I have yet to find an autoloader I can do this with, at least one that shoots a round worth shooting. The Power Pisol load is listed as +P with Hornaday XTP of the same weight, and I know I shouldn't be using this high a charge in a non +P rated gun, but it was built in 1981, not 1961, so I hope not to damage the gun.
 
Well, let me welcome you to the forum Bob!

Enjoy, there are a lot of knowledgeable folks hereabouts!
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Just a caution though. I hope you shot the jacketed first then the lead. Sometimes if the leading is bad you can have some real problems "ironing" the lead into the pores of the barrel. Makes it almost impossible to get out.

Glad you finally came over to the "right" side. I didn't even think of getting a 1911 until Smith made one!
icon_smile.gif

I even carried one in the Corps!

Again, welcome aboard.
 
Thanks for the information! I shot the lead some first, then kinda mixed it up. I wanted to see if there was a difference between the two loads of the same charge with different bullets. But, I also wanted to see how the Power Pistol came out. I get excited sometimes and don't think. Anyyone have a recipe for the 39 sp. using W-296 (H110)? I hate to let it go to waste, a whole can and all. Maybe it will be right for the Garand, I heard they use it in the .30 carbine, why not the 30-06?
 
Another side note, that Titegroup is filthy, I used it as it was written in all my 1911's, and now in .38 and it leaves the outside of the gun looking pretty nasty. I noticed after the 70 rounds I fired today that everything was getting a little tight to move, (cylinder, trigger, hammer, me). Maybe if some of the 1911 wannabe's used it in thier cheap knockoffs it would (tighten) the slop found in the slides and barrels of those guns!
 
I have been using 3.4 grains of titegroup with a 158 gr LRN or LSWC for pin shooting and haven't had any problems with it being dirty. It shoots great without much recoil in my Model 67 with a 4" barrel.

Glenn
 
Not sure, but I use a 1.7/8" barrel. Maybe this makes a difference in the charge. I will true to reduce it, but I kinda got he Tim Allen thing going (More has gotta be better!).
 
I am pretty new at reloading so I just started out with the lower recipes in the book. I have found that in my 38 special and my 45 colt loads at about 800 to 850 fps works fine for what I shoot.

Glenn
 
I get excited sometimes and don't think.
Click to expand...

Not trying to be rude here but this statement and reloading just don't mix.

If there is anywhere you have to keep your wits about you it is at the reloading bench. If you don't, someday, they are going to be digging little metal shards out of your body. Hopefully, it won't be at your autopsy. or someone else's for that matter.

The reason you can't find any information on 296/H110 for the 38spl is that there isn't any. The powder isn't recommended for that caliber. Do you have a reloading manual? Stick to the recipes in it, and they are recipes. All of the "ingredients" are there and if you leave one out or change one on a whim your "cake" isn't going to turn out right.

The problem with messing with a recipe when you reload is that it isn't just a "cake" that doesn't turn out right, serious injury can occur, even death.

Lose the swagger when approaching reloading, you and those you shoot with will appreciate it.
 
you will enjoy your model 36...they are great guns...however,like skip mentioned use great caution with your reloading and stick to the recipe....doing otherwise is a disaster waiting to happen
 
I was just trying to find a use for the unopened bottle of W-296 I have. I did 10 rounds today at 9.9 grains with no ill effects. Power pistol was like a flamethrower at 6 grains, but Universal was dead -nuts accurate, both with cast lead and Gold Dots. 10 yards, I could place the shots with the Universal exactly where I wanted them! I hate the way this powder meters, and didn't like it in my 1911's, but I think it will be my first choice with the snubby. I am going to load up my Gold Dots with Universal for my carry round.I need to get a tri-pod still, as I have had a chronograph for almost a year. I'd like to see the velocities on some of these loads.I tried to barter my 586 6" inch back but he wouldn't budge. I'll just have to find another. What is the most accurate S&W in .357/.38 for target? I'll leave the W-296 alone, even know I didn't blow anything up today. I wonder if there is a recipe for my Garand with W-296?
 
There is no "recipe" for using WW 296 in M1 .30-06 loads. Don't even think about it! It burns much to fast to get usable velocity in the .30-06, and using it in that big case is just asking for a gun blowup incident. You won't find any "reduced loads for it either, as the powders burn well only withing very limited pressure ranges and that dictates the cartridge and case size used.

The WW296 and H110 are designed for use in small capacity pistol/magnum cartridges like the .357 Magnum and M1 .30 Carbine. It is also suitable for .41 and .44 Magnum full loads.
 
Bob,
I am going to try to make this sound as nice as I can.

You are taking a completely wrong and dangerous approach to reloading.

What you say about W-296 and your approach to reloading is like a guy that fell out of a 100 story window in a building. About the 50th floor someone yelled out at him and asked: "How are things going?" He replied: "So far, so good!" The problem was there is that pesky bottom floor still coming up!

That is what your approach to reloading seems to be.

As for the W-296, find someone with a 357Mag or 44Mag and sell or give the powder to them. Get a powder that is designed for the caliber you are going to shoot and go from there, not the other way 'round.

I am not trying to make you mad, you may get that way anyway, I'm sorry if you do. The things I said aren't designed to do that, they are just a simple warning, a caution.

Wise men are turned from error by words of caution.

Be safe.
 
Bob,

I have to agree with SmithCrazy.

Most ammunition mishaps occur when mistakes are made in using either the wrong powder, or the wrong amount of powder, and you are doing/thinking of doing BOTH!

Please pay attention to the advice we give you on this board. It is worth exactly what you paid, but nobody wants to see a fellow gun enthusiast headed for disaster without trying to do something to prevent it.
 
Although not a manufacturers site, here is where I got the idea it could be done safely. Don't worry, I'm still disposing of it.
 
Interesting website but I'm not willing to trust my safety to someone who has based his loads on:

"1) A "gut feeling";
2) Almost 50 years of experience;
3) They worked just fine in the firearm I was testing."

Just my two cents worth.
 
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