New to me 325 Thunder Ranch

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I bought a Thunder Ranch 325 at a show this past weekend. Probably over paid seeing as how the gun only came with the pouch, and the gun with the rail attached. I didn't even get the key for the lock or a single moonclip. However I don't feel too bad since S&W has stopped making 45 revolvers for the time being. I already have moonclips, a BMT loader, and VZ grips coming my way. I do wonder if there is a place I could get the plugs to install under the barrel if I get the rail off? Would S&W provide them perhaps?
The rail screws are in so tight that it started to twist my bit as I tried to loosen them. Any advice? Liquid wrench and heat maybe? Who knows how long the rail has been attached. Not even sure how old this one is. Serial is CZR3692 if anyone would like to tell me.
Hoping it's a fun gun for me with maybe some camping use with a mounted light and some 250gr 45s. Anything any one with experience on this gun want to provide? I have read a lot but this is my first moonclip revolver.
 
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I would hate to tear screws up trying to get them out. Might want to take it to a gun smith. As far as plugs go a small allen, or torx head screw would work. Take an original screw to a hardware store for the right thread. Of course you would a shorter 1 to fit flush. I don't blame you for not wanting the rail. Hang on to it though. I had looked at Thunder Ranches some time back. No luck at a reasonable price. Ended up buying a 625 JM. Good luck! You should enjoy shooting a .45 ACP revolver. Bob
 
Dawned on me. Heat could be your friend but controlled hear so you don’t damage the finish.

What we do with switchblade screws to get the body apart that have been locktited in may work.

Use a soldering iron directly on the head of the fastener. That makes the loc tite soften up like putty. Then unscrew the fastener while it’s still warm and the bonding agent is pliable
 
I would try heat as well. The Allen screws which came with mine had some type of pliable material on the threads to prevent them from backing out. I haven't tried to remove them after removing the rail.
As far as hints, I suggest a fiber optic front sight. It slips in and out without any effort. I also purchased a Safariland holster for 4" 629 (N-frame) because they don't list one for the 325TR. I use Wilson or TK moon lips and the chamfered cylinders make reloads very fast. Enjoy yours.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to leave the rail on for the time being. I don't have a holster to carry it yet so no big rush to get it off. I'll try to take a driver to the range when I shoot it and see if the heat from shooting it makes them easy to come out. If not then I'll resort to something more direct. So far seems like it's going to be a good gun for me though.
 
Just wanted to say, Smith and Wesson is sending me a new set of plugs for under the barrel. New Lanyard loop pin for a j frame fits so im going to get one of those so it's complete.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm going to leave the rail on for the time being. I don't have a holster to carry it yet so no big rush to get it off. I'll try to take a driver to the range when I shoot it and see if the heat from shooting it makes them easy to come out. If not then I'll resort to something more direct. So far seems like it's going to be a good gun for me though.

Groo here
I have an M-325 TR [shot it in a personal defence class , all were impressed]
Contact Lobo leather for a holster.
Mark and I worked together to get the right pattern for the 325TR
WITH the rail on........
Holster is a work of art, gun shoots like it's part of you.!!!
 
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