New to me 5906 cleaning question

[PeteC]

I'm cleaning a just acquired stainless 5906. The s/n prefix is MJF and it was shipped early 1999. It is in pretty good shape as far as external cosmetics go. Seems to cycle and function well on first inspection. Looks fine after taking the slide off and doing a little cleaning with gun solvent.

Then I took the old grips off, and... (see attachments).

The pin that keeps the grips in place was a little rusty and took some effort. The springs I can see look fine. I wiped off the usual dirt and blew out some lint and dirt with compressed air. Now I am wondering if the gun needs some more thorough cleaning than just gun cleaner. I am sure I can clean what is visible and reachable, but that might just be a waste of time since I can't reach everything that way...

Should this gun just be sprayed with solvent, soaked, ultrasonic cleaner (I have access to a small one), taken down to component parts?? I prefer not to go the route of brake cleaner, TCE, etc, since I have no idea what that will do to this particular gun.

Opinions??

 

[SMSgt]

If the grips are off, non-chlorinated brake cleaner or other degreasing spray won't hurt a thing. I use it on my 6906. A light oiling afterwards and it's good to go. I'd recommend watching a YouTube video on how to break down the slide so the firing pin chamber can get a good cleaning.

 

[PeteC]

If the grips are off, non-chlorinated brake cleaner or other degreasing spray won't hurt a thing. I use it on my 6906. A light oiling afterwards and it's good to go. I'd recommend watching a YouTube video on how to break down the slide so the firing pin chamber can get a good cleaning.

I think I have seen it, it was referenced here somewhere. So your suggestion would be to take down the slide but not the frame?

 

[WR Moore]

Getting the trigger & trigger bar properly reassembled is a pain. Bascially, you put the trigger in, but lying sort of down in the trigger guard, then put the trigger bar in place and work them into place.

If you detail strip the frame, make sure that you save the two little springs that go under the ejector, and sear release lever/safety plunger lever. Also, the spring that holds the right side decocking/safety lever in place is not the same as the safety detent spring and they have to go back in the same place when reassembling.

An ultra sonic cleaner for the frame & parts is an outstanding idea. Be sure to lube carefully afterward. Bronze wool will remove the crud/rust.

Be very, very, very careful with the hammer/sear pin plate. There aren't any replacements available at this time. Also, be most careful when installing the grips so you don't damage the plate. Very easy to do.

 

[jbtrucker]

There is levers and springs in the frame would just clean it out as suggested ,did the same with my 5906 several years ago still works. Gun Scrubber and non chlorinated rake cleaner will evaporate, wipe down with light oil and rag. I put a small drop of oil on barrel hood , rails and light coat inside barrel bushing. Now wanting to get my 5906 out and check it over

 

[kbm6893]

I just bought a 22 year old PD trade in 5946 that was the filthiest gunI have ever bought. The grips on 3rd gens aren’t easy to take off and I am sure they had never been off this gun. I scrubbed with solvent and a toothbrush and then hosed it down with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Came out looking great but I suppose there could be some crud in the nooks and crannies. I am OCD about cleaning my guns and I have removed the firing pin and safety in the slide, but was not feeling confident enough to disassemble The frame. There’s a great series on YouTube of detail stripping the whole gun. I thought of sonic cleaning the frame while still assembled but didn’t want to leave any moisture.

I wish installing the grips was a little easier. I’ve even thought about putting rubber Hogue grips on there since they make removing the grips easy, but I like the feel of factory. You do have to watch that side plate as you put it back on.

 

[PeteC]

Reassembling the grips is easier if you spray the inside of the grip with silicone spray and wipe it out with a rag. I'm sure someone will tell me why that's wrong, but that is what I did. Learned my lesson after my experience reassembling the 6906 I posted about a few weeks ago, and that one was NOT full of crud.

The side plate on this gun is already bent out a bit in the middle, but it is doing the job it was intended for.

This gun was not overly dirty in places where you normally clean after shooting it, just in the less accessible areas. Under the grips, sear, trigger return(?) spring area. The pics in the first post tell the story.

I got some of the dirt off using gun cleaner, toothbrush, and rags. I used dental floss under the rear sight, under the side plate, and in tight places.

Then I sprayed the whole frame with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner, twice, and then with gun cleaner again. Most of the crud came out and the working parts seem clean now. The bore is nice and shiny, rails are clean, and safeties and firing pin are all moving freely.

Having said that - some of the residue on the flat parts of the frame, where the frame and the grips are in contact, is not coming off. I think can live with that because it has nothing to do with the function of the gun, but... really??

 

[1775usmarine]

I just bought a 22 year old PD trade in 5946 that was the filthiest gunI have ever bought. The grips on 3rd gens aren’t easy to take off and I am sure they had never been off this gun. I scrubbed with solvent and a toothbrush and then hosed it down with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Came out looking great but I suppose there could be some crud in the nooks and crannies. I am OCD about cleaning my guns and I have removed the firing pin and safety in the slide, but was not feeling confident enough to disassemble The frame. There’s a great series on YouTube of detail stripping the whole gun. I thought of sonic cleaning the frame while still assembled but didn’t want to leave any moisture.

I wish installing the grips was a little easier. I’ve even thought about putting rubber Hogue grips on there since they make removing the grips easy, but I like the feel of factory. You do have to watch that side plate as you put it back on.

Once you follow the videos and disassemble and reassemble a few times it becomes almost 2nd nature.

 

[stansdds]

A bath in an ultrasonic cleaner might remove the remaining gunk and likely remove gunk in the really hidden areas.


By the way, dental floss has lots of uses and can even be used to floss your teeth.

 

[PeteC]

By the way, dental floss has lots of uses and can even be used to floss your teeth.

I know right? People keep telling me that when they see it in my toolbox... amazing stuff! I even used it to fix my glasses once when I ran out of gaffer's tape!

 

[kbm6893]

A bath in an ultrasonic cleaner might remove the remaining gunk and likely remove gunk in the really hidden areas.


By the way, dental floss has lots of uses and can even be used to floss your teeth.

A sonic bath without fully taking the frame apart? You’re not worried about some moisture being trapped? I know to blow it out with compressed air but figured some could still be trapped.

 

[PeteC]

After Cleaning

These pics are after cleaning with gun cleaner and a can of brake cleaner ($3.50 at O'Reilly's Auto Parts)

The working parts came out ok, see remaining dirt under the old grip in the last pic. I'm puzzled it did not come off with the rest, but it is not in an area where it matters much.

I think the person above who said that people most likely NEVER remove the grips is right. If you don't want to know, don't look, LOL.

 

[rosewood]

You can pretty much get the frame clean without tearing it down other than removing grips. The firing pin in the slide can be difficult to clean without disassembling and it isn't too difficult.

Rosewood

 

[PeteC]

You can pretty much get the frame clean without tearing it down other than removing grips. The firing pin in the slide can be difficult to clean without disassembling and it isn't too difficult.

Rosewood

I did that before I made the first post, but thanks, I can always use more advice and info.

I should have been more clear. I cleaned the slide first, including taking the safety lever and the firing pin out, and cleaning the firing pin, channel, and spring. I used the video by blubelly2. That was all routine cleaning, by hand, using gun cleaner, rags, pipe cleaners etc. No surprises on the slide, all good on the firing pin and spring, nothing corroded or bad there, or any of the tiny springs and plungers. (Btw, why can't we just give them numbers, who's supposed to remember all those names?)

When I took the grips off I freaked a little... the dirt was NOT what I expected, and was not coming off. I stopped and decided to ask for help... and I swear something was looking back at me from there!

 

[Steve912]

You can pretty much get the frame clean without tearing it down other than removing grips. The firing pin in the slide can be difficult to clean without disassembling and it isn't too difficult.

Rosewood

Try drifting the rear sight off sometime, and see if
ya still think that.

 

[rosewood]

Try drifting the rear sight off sometime, and see if
ya still think that.

Good point, had to beat the site off my 4013. The others came off quite easy with my site pusher.

Rosewood

 

[PeteC]

That is a very good point about the rear sight. I have NOT taken that off so far.

I took out the safety levers and the two associated pins and springs, and the firing pin and spring. That all had a normal amount of dirt, no springs were rusted, and the firing pin channel was only mildly dirty. I did not remove the extractor.

My rear sight won't budge. The set screw came out with the help of a torx bit. Wiha T6, part of Wiha Tools #759 kit (now Wiha #79585).

The sight will not come off with moderate hammering, not even when the slide is supported, and I did not take it further because I do not have a replacement on hand if it gets damaged. I did soak it in Croil, and a dental floss will move under the sight freely.

I also took all the fancy safety, decocking, and ejecto-matic levers out, along with the hammer and sear and the little hooked thingy (disconnect?). I did that so I could straighten the side plate spring bar. It was bowed out for some reason, which pushes out the top edge of the grip on the left side, allowing dirt to get in. It's still not perfect but better.

On the other hand the spring at the magazine release nut looks worse for wear and rusty. Still functional though.

 

[PeteC]

Questions:

About the Disconnector (hooked thingy), #6 in the Brownell's 5906 parts drawing, SMITH & WESSON p/n 104210000: The one on this gun is black, and looks to be made from plastic . Is that something to do with my pistol being a late production model (1999 according to S&W), or is this some aftermarket part I should be thinking of replacing with my next Brownells order?

About the rear sight which seems welded in place: Should I plan on buying a sight pusher like the one advertised in this forum by JMT? Has anyone used it on 3rd gen S&W sights? Or something similar?? The cost would probably be shared with a couple other locals who bought 3rd gen guns in the last year, so not a big deal. On the other hand, I' don't need more gadgets that will just sit on the shelf next to my collection of labor saving devices from the State Fair,

 

[JohnHL]

Yes, S&W went to a black plastic disconnector in the later models.

I've never used a sight pusher, and I've run into some stubborn sights.

Penetrating oil, a solidly mounted vice with padded jaws, a BIG hammer, a brass or aluminum drift, and lots of finesse!

John

 

[rosewood]

My sight pusher wouldn't budge it, so I beat with hammer and punch. I did file it down before putting it back in so it would come out easier next time. I did use the sight pusher to reinstall. It doesn't have to be too tight on the rear, you do have a set screw to hold it in place.

Rosewood