New to Revolvers | Cleaning Questions\Recommendations

[cisco0072]

All,

New to revolvers but excited about this new endeavor. I choose the Model 19 as my first revolver. I really admire the history behind the Model 19 and really enjoyed shooting them. I am sure this question has been asked but I couldn't find any great answers to my questions. I understand you need to be careful when choosing gun cleaning supplies as some can harm certain gun finishes if not used correctly. Hoping you all experienced revolver owners can offer some good feedback about my queries listed below. Also, I don't plan to store these revolvers for a long period of time, they will see the gun range regularly.

Model 19-4 (Nickel Plated)
• Gun Oil Recommendation?
• Gun Bore Cleaner Recommendation?
• 100% Cotton Cloth or Microfiber Cloth to store it in? (Not to completely enclose it but just to keep it from getting surface wear\dings. It will be stored in a moisture free environment.)

Model 19-4 (Blued)
• Gun Oil Recommendation?
• Gun Bore Cleaner Recommendation?
• 100% Cotton Cloth or Microfiber Cloth to store it in? (Not to completely enclose it but just to keep it from getting surface wear\dings. It will be stored in a moisture free environment.)

Thanks in advance!

 

[JP@AK]

I have been using Hoppe's #9 to clean my guns (especially the bore and charge holes) since I was a kid (I'm now 65). My dad got me started with it about 55 years ago or so. Never had any problems.
I also use gun oil made by the same company. I don't know if they still do, but they used to sell it in a little plastic squeeze bottle with a needle point tip, which makes it easy to apply in small doses, even to get it into tight spots. I still have a supply of these that I bought some years back.
Rem-Oil also works fine.
Some say don't use Hoppe's #9 with nickel. But if there is no flaking of the nickel, I think it is okay to use, but wipe off any excess. What you should never do is soak a nickel plated gun in any solvent that contains ammonia derivatives (Hoppe's does). Even the Hoppe's bottle label warns against this.
As for the storage you described, I think either cloth option should be okay. I store mine on a painted metal shelf in the safe with nothing covering them. But keeping the guns dry is the key. Some of my overflow storage is in a safe drawer with each gun covered by clean, dry cotton cloths. And, of course, some are stored in their original boxes, wrapped in the vapor paper that came with them. They are checked regularly and oiled as needed.
I hope this helps.

 

[bananaman]

I would stay away from Hoppe's with Nickel guns. (why take the chance?) I use CLP now. There are different makers of this type of product. Now am using Gunzilla. When I was into shotgun, bought Hoppe's by the qt.
I have no gun that developed rust or condition issues since I owned it. Bob
BUY THE WAY...... Welcome to the FORUM!

 

[Double-O-Dave]

Cisco0072: Howdy from Austin, and welcome to the Forum. I'm almost 60 yrs. old and grew up using Hoppes bore cleaner, and whatever gun oil I could scrounge up. I confess there were times I stole my Mom's Singer Sewing Machine Oil and used that on my firearms with good results. I was introduced to Break Free CLP while in the Army and have used that product with excellent results for many years. Break Free won't harm your nickeled, nor blued steel firearms. It has no real odor (Hoppe's gives my daughter headaches), and is a great product that Cleans, Lubricates and Protects as advertised.

Regards,

Dave

 

[hobby-gunsmith]

cleaning questions

I would recommend MPro-7 for all your needs in stainless and blue guns. I have been using the product for years and I recommend the product to my students. A majority of the law enforcement agencies and military use the product. Visit their website and browse their entire line of cleaning products. The new product they introduced is a grease for applicable areas requiring a a heavier solvent for greater protection on metal to metal wear.

Nick

 

[JP@AK]

Break Free won't harm your nickeled, nor blued steel firearms. It has no real odor (Hoppe's gives my daughter headaches)

Sad. I love the smell of Hoppe's #9. I keep telling the lady that lets me live with her that I wish someone made aftershave that smelled like Hoppe's. It's a joke since I've had a full beard for years and haven't touched a razor in a very long time. But whenever I say this, Deb just rolls her eyes and walks away.

CLP is a great product and a bottle of it lives on my solvent shelf. It gets used once in a while, mainly on nickel and stainless guns. The same with M-Pro 7. But Hoppe's is still the standard cleaning solvent for me. Nickel guns in high condition won't be harmed by it, but I have no argument with guys who would rather not take a chance with the ammonia.

 

[DWalt]

Hoppe's will not harm nickel under any normal usage. I do not have any preferences in bore cleaners, but I have been using Shooter's Choice for quite a while, as I got a pint of it free some years ago and am still working on it. As a lubricant, Shooter's Choice MP-10 is OK. I also got quite a bit of it free at the same time. But any household oil is probably just as good. I recommend waxing the exterior whenever cleaned, I use Johnson's Paste Wax. I store my guns mostly in zippered fleece-lined gun rugs.

 

[ma deuce]

I use Hoppe's on my blued S&Ws, and most of my other guns, as well. However, I just got some Ballistol, on the advice of my gunsmith and other friends, and am going to give that a try.

 

[Tom_R]

I will second what ma deuce has said about Ballistol.

It is excellent, and it is non-toxic.

But don't just take my word for it, HICKOCK45 fully endorses it too:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiWNZgtu2uw[/ame]

 

[CajunBass]

I just use whatever I happen to have. Usually Hoppes and some kind of gun/reel oil. I've used oil, silicone, furniture polish, and car wax on the exterior and have never seen a problem.

 

[silentflyer]

I use Hoppes #9 on my nickle guns, flush it with lighter fluid after the #9 and then oil it with Rem-Oil or the Hoppes gun oil. No problems.

 

[3S16]

I store all my handguns in "Bore Stores" soft gun cases. they are silicone impregnated fleece that inhibits rust. Plus, they offer protection that allows me to just stack the guns in the safe without damaging them. For about $10 on Ebay they are a bargain.

 

[Louchia]

I use Breakfree CLP. It's a good all around clean and lube for all my guns. Other good products as mentioned are M PRO 7, and Balistall , which are non toxic.
Read the owners manual as some state to not use ammonia based cleaners. They would have negative effect on certain finishes.
Hoppes for example is ammonia based. Hoppes Elite is not.. If I have a stubborn area inside the bore or chamber, I will use the original Hoppes #9 for that area only.

 

[M27-2]

I only use Balistol for almost 20 years on Blackpowder guns and modern guns. It also is good for wood and contains nothing harmful for people and animals or the environment.
uwe from germany

 

[Tom_R]

IMPORTANT NOTE:

If you have a Blued "Classic" Smith and Wesson, i.e a 586, 57 or Model 10 and the like in a Blued Finish, you CANNOT use Ammonia based cleaner on it, as it takes the blueing right off, seriously.

There have been a few threads on it.

Here is one:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/381718-huge-mistake-new-57-a.html

 

[S42N8]

+ 1 on the MPro-7 and BoreStores. I changed to the MPro about 3 years ago... No issues with blued, nickel, stainless. I do, however, get all the solvents off as soon as possible. The BoreStores are excellent. The rust resistance is better than the cotton or microfiber, and cushions nicely for storage. The new BoreStores have a tag for make/model/caliber, so you can tell what's in it without opening the bag. Very useful.

 

[shouldazagged]

I no longer own any autoloaders with rails to lube, but for my revolvers I use small amounts of Rem-Oil. I clean with Hoppe's #9 and have for a great many years, but may try CLP. After cleaning I wipe guns down with a silicone-impregnated cloth. I've never had one rust.