Newest addition to my small collection

[daveboy]

I've been collecting guns for about forty years, but only recently got the S&W revolver bug. I enjoy finding guns that have not been given a lot of love, but have been well-used. Part of that stems from the fact that I'm cheap, but more so because of the fact that I enjoy cleaning, polishing, restoring, slicking-up, and replacing incorrect or worn parts.

I picked up this 1953-vintage (I think) M&P .38 Special a couple of months back. It had light rust and freckling, hadn't been cleaned in forever, and was wearing some incorrect target stocks. After some boiling and carding, a Wilson spring kit, and the correct (almost?) stocks, she is once again a nice, little wheelgun.

She shot pretty well before I did all the work. Now that I'm thru, she has a sweet 2.5 lb. SA pull and I haven't measured the DA pull, but it's smooth as butter. She locks up tighter and has less end shake than new models. She is worn just enough so that I won't be afraid to shoot her.

Now, I'm on to find my next victim.

 

[quinn]

I think I'm going to hide this post from certain members residing in my gun safe!

 

[SS336]

Wow, very nice! Explain your boiling carding technique, it looks terrific.

 

[Gunhohulk]

I’ll make a second request for more info on your boiling/carding technique. What do you use to get into all the tight spaces on the inside of the frame?

 

[daveboy]

I’ll make a second request for more info on your boiling/carding technique. What do you use to get into all the tight spaces on the inside of the frame?

After thoroughly cleaning everything with brake cleaner and acetone, I boiled for forty minutes in distilled water. I removed and let it cool. Then, carded (using a carding wheel) until all the yuck was gone and the finish was left deep black. As for the tiny places, I used 00 steel wool that I had degreased with acetone. Once I had it looking good, I let it bathe in diesel fuel overnight (I have also used used motor oil, but it's a lot messier). Dried and oiled.

If you've never carded before, it is essential to use a real carding wheel and not a wire wheel. I have actually done entire guns (even rifles) with steel wool instead of a carding wheel. The carding wheel just makes it much, much easier and quicker.

I didn't mention it, but I also stripped, steamed, stained, and refinished the stocks. I've touched up a few, but never did a complete strip and refinish.

My forty years of gun restoration has been exclusively on old military rifles, until recently. I've learned a lot of things the hard way.

 

[Mikebiker]

The carding wheel needs to turn quite slow compared to bench top grinders, even those that are variable speed. I put it in a drill press which can easily slow it down. Kind of odd using it sideways but the results are great. Boiling red oxide / rust converts it black oxide / rust. This also for lack of a better term sticks it to the metal pretty good. It is how rust bluing was done.

 

[boykinlp]

After thoroughly cleaning everything with brake cleaner and acetone, I boiled for forty minutes in distilled water. I removed and let it cool. Then, carded (using a carding wheel) until all the yuck was gone and the finish was left deep black. As for the tiny places, I used 00 steel wool that I had degreased with acetone. Once I had it looking good, I let it bathe in diesel fuel overnight (I have also used used motor oil, but it's a lot messier). Dried and oiled.

If you've never carded before, it is essential to use a real carding wheel and not a wire wheel. I have actually done entire guns (even rifles) with steel wool instead of a carding wheel. The carding wheel just makes it much, much easier and quicker.

I didn't mention it, but I also stripped, steamed, stained, and refinished the stocks. I've touched up a few, but never did a complete strip and refinish.

My forty years of gun restoration has been exclusively on old military rifles, until recently. I've learned a lot of things the hard way.

Again, I learn something new today. I had never even heard of the carding technique.
Larry

 

[MSD2343]

Impressive! Wish someone could do a similar clean-up on my appearance.

 

[daveboy]

The carding wheel needs to turn quite slow compared to bench top grinders, even those that are variable speed. I put it in a drill press which can easily slow it down. Kind of odd using it sideways but the results are great. Boiling red oxide / rust converts it black oxide / rust. This also for lack of a better term sticks it to the metal pretty good. It is how rust bluing was done.

I do the same. Carding wheel in a drill press on the lowest speed.

 

[daveboy]

Again, I learn something new today. I had never even heard of the carding technique.
Larry

It's too easy, but it works. It converts red rust into black rust. Black rust is the very definition of bluing. When doing a touch-up, like this, it is not the equivelant of a rust-bluing job, but it is a quick way to greatly improve the appearance of a neglected gun.

 

[Ray]

Hi can the specified carding be made without a machine , by hand I mean? And if so, which sand paper should be used?
Thanks, regards, Ray

 

[Mikebiker]

Never use sandpaper. I have used 0000 steel wool but it just does not work as well as the wheel. The wheel in a drill in a vise would work for mall parts but may be a problem with rifle or shotgun barrels.

 

[daveboy]

The carding wheel needs to turn quite slow compared to bench top grinders, even those that are variable speed. I put it in a drill press which can easily slow it down. Kind of odd using it sideways but the results are great. Boiling red oxide / rust converts it black oxide / rust. This also for lack of a better term sticks it to the metal pretty good. It is how rust bluing was done.

A drill press is what I used also.

 

[daveboy]

Hi can the specified carding be made without a machine , by hand I mean? And if so, which sand paper should be used?
Thanks, regards, Ray

Never use sandpaper or a wire wheel. You can get just as good a result as a carding wheel with steel wool. The difference is that you will have to rub and rub and rub.... The wheel simply makes the job a lot faster. I've used '00' wool but '0000' will give you the nicest finish, but takes longer.

If you're not aware, steel wool is packaged with a light oil in it to prevent its rusting. You will want that oil out of it for this process. Pour a bowl of acetone and soak your wool pad in it. Turn the pad over, squeeze it, repeat a few times. Take it out, squeeze the excess acetone out and let it the pad dry thoroughly (acetone evaporates quickly) before scrubbing.