walnut grips (?), looks like a 6 or 7 inch barrel. SN is 6039**. Any body have a year or anything interesting to add about this specimen?
Nickel, Model 10 .38 special
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OP
walnut grips (?), looks like a 6 or 7 inch barrel. SN is 6039**. Any body have a year or anything interesting to add about this specimen?
Welcome to the Forum.
It is probably a 6" barrel. Measure from the fron of the cylinder to the end of the barrel.
Is that number from the butt of the revolver? Are there any letter prefixs, such as "C" or "D"? Sometimes there is a space between the prefix and the rest of the number.
When you open the cylinder, is there a "Mod 10" stamped on the frame? Other numbers found there would be an assembly number.
If there is no "Mod 10", then the revolver is considered a pre Model 10.
If you can, please post pictures. You will have to use a photo hosting service. I use photobucket, which is a free account.
It is probably a 6" barrel. Measure from the fron of the cylinder to the end of the barrel.
Is that number from the butt of the revolver? Are there any letter prefixs, such as "C" or "D"? Sometimes there is a space between the prefix and the rest of the number.
When you open the cylinder, is there a "Mod 10" stamped on the frame? Other numbers found there would be an assembly number.
If there is no "Mod 10", then the revolver is considered a pre Model 10.
If you can, please post pictures. You will have to use a photo hosting service. I use photobucket, which is a free account.
If its a pre-WW2 gun, meaning no letter prefix on the serial number, its about
1929. It should be a 6", measuring from the front face of the cylinder. As Muley
noted, make sure there is no letter prefix. Sometimes its a bit to the left of
the first digit of the serial number.
Also, check for the same number being on the rear face of the cylinder, and
on the flat under the barrel.
Later, Mike Priwer
1929. It should be a 6", measuring from the front face of the cylinder. As Muley
noted, make sure there is no letter prefix. Sometimes its a bit to the left of
the first digit of the serial number.
Also, check for the same number being on the rear face of the cylinder, and
on the flat under the barrel.
Later, Mike Priwer
OP
serial # matches with cylinder. No model 10 stamp. Top of barrel has the Springfield, Mass. reference and pat. years '06, '09, '14. There are no letters associated with the SN as mentioned before. The # is on the bottom of the grip frame. L side of barrel says Smith & Wesson, R says 38 S&W special .ctg
You would be surprised how many folks, including those who run gun shops, leave off the letter prefix when stating the SN.
Mike's date of 1929 is about as close as you can get, without requesting a factory letter from the S&W historian.
OP
Thanks for the info, very helpful.
tac803
Member
Tferg, I just picked up my first pre-model 10 last week. I have a few Smith revolvers, but these are works of art! My sn dates to 1922 or so. Let us know how yours shoots!
I do not beleive that your Smith or TAC803s are "pre 10s". I "think" they are both Mod of 1905s. The no letter prefix on the serial number makes me pretty sure. If you check the new, overpriced Blue Book(aka- Fjestad) you would think a 1905 is worth it's weight in gold. Not around here, unfortunatly. A simple photo from the Standard Catalog of S&W would tell you at a glance if it is a Mod of 1905 or a Pre 10. Also, the serial numbers on the 1905 are smaller and "upside down". Note: I have been wrong before. --Luckydog
This notion of a pre-10 is somewhat misleading. Lucky is right - what you have is a Model of 1905,
assuming its a square butt. If its a round butt, the factory called it a Model of 1902.
Pre-10 should be a post-WW2 .38 M&P 5-screw or 4-screw, that does not have the model number
stamped in the crane area.
Later, Mike Priwer
assuming its a square butt. If its a round butt, the factory called it a Model of 1902.
Pre-10 should be a post-WW2 .38 M&P 5-screw or 4-screw, that does not have the model number
stamped in the crane area.
Later, Mike Priwer
