Nickle brass, a situation I don't understand!

[jcelect]

I have a custom 38 super built on a 629 frame! It came to me from the second owner! It had many problems! Basically it was built too tight! BC gap too small, headspace too small, cylinders need polishing, etc.! I bought it to shoot pins and wanted to shoot heavy bullets! The last problem has been solved but I DO NOT understand the solution! If I shoot brass cases(eight shot), every cylinder full will stick in the chambers! Even if I clean the chambers every round, the brass needs to be knocked out by a tap on the ejector road with a dead blow hammer! I have reduce the loads, changed bullet weights, and changed powders! The problem persists! The solution; NICKLE BRASS with 165 Extreme copper bullets at max loads will not stick! The moon clips literally fall out! WHY! ! ! ? ?
jcelect

 

[max]

I am not totally sure of my terminology, but I believe nickel has a lower coefficient of friction.

 

[cracker57]

nothing like answering a question with a question... the nickeled cases are smoother, therefore slickers less friction?

 

[robertrwalsh]

Sounds to me like it would benefit from having the chambers polished. Yes, nickel plated brass is much "slicker" than normal brass and will slide out of the firing chamber easier. That is normal.

 

[boatbum101]

More than one reason premium LE ammo is loaded in nickel plated brass .

 

[CA Escapee]

The nickel plating is harder than brass, too. So the nickel may be preventing the cases from expanding as much as plain brass.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

The gunsmith who did the modifications didn't ream the cylinders correctly or properly set the BC. I suggest you find a good gunsmith and have your gun properly repaired. You will be much happier when it's done correctly.

Good luck.

 

[stansdds]

Yes, it sounds like the gunsmith who put together this revolver might not have done it quite right. I would second the motion to find a good gunsmith and have it fixed correctly.


As to nickel plated brass, the plating does provide a harder and lower friction surface than plain brass. Nickel plated brass is often more brittle than plain brass due to hydrogen embrittlement that occurs during the plating process, so nickel plated cases often do not give as many reloads as plain brass.

 

[rwsmith]

Also, if there is any roughness in the chamber.....

The harder nickel doesn't form around imperfections and grab the case.

 

[jcelect]

I have the tooling and experience to cut the BC & headspace gap so I corrected those problems and "lightly" polished the cylinders. I didn't get too aggressive on the polishing as I was afraid of deforming the cylinders! I plan on getting a ceramic burnishing tool this winter for proper polishing! I have other "pin guns" and have gained the knowledge to tune a gun for light & smooth DA action(MY GUNS ONLY) but I have never run into sticky chambers before, that a good cleaning won't cure! Thanks to all for your replies!
jcelect

 

[tdan]

Sounds to me that your original gunsmith built you a nice tight gun that functions fine with nickel cases. Keep in mind that the 38 Super is a straight walled case that does not have the taper of a 9mm Luger case. I would have been real happy that the gun has perfect extraction with the nickel brass. You might try reducing your powder charge and see if that helps extraction with yellow brass cases. The last thing I would do is attempt an amateur "honing" job on your chambers.

 

[colt_saa]

I have the tooling and experience to cut the BC & headspace gap so I corrected those problems and "lightly" polished the cylinders. I didn't get too aggressive on the polishing as I was afraid of deforming the cylinders! I plan on getting a ceramic burnishing tool this winter for proper polishing! I have other "pin guns" and have gained the knowledge to tune a gun for light & smooth DA action(MY GUNS ONLY) but I have never run into sticky chambers before, that a good cleaning won't cure! Thanks to all for your replies!
jcelect

Joe,
A flex-hone is what you need. Brownells has them for about $30.

That was the solution to all the 940s that stuck

I shoot 9x23 Winchester in my converted 627s all the time with no issues.

I just added the 9x23 extra cylinder to this one thinking about pins

I have no idea where mine is in this new house or I would just loan it to you. My hobby room boxes are not yet unpacked

 

[Engineer1911]

Nickel case life & rough cylinder walls

In this 'sticking brass' condition, there are 3 components involved. The cylinder is the hardest piece with the 'rough' walls, nickeled cases that have a smooth, less hard, surface finish, and the brass cases that are the softest that deform into the cylinder walls roughness.

In 1975, I bought a Ruger Security Six (my first 357 magnum), 200 pieces of once fired 38 Spl brass, and 50 pieces (1 box) of new 357 Magnum brass. After 10 reloadings of max charges in the 357 mag brass, without any failures, I stopped tracking the number of reloads. During the early 1990's , the last of that brass finally failed -- the nickel plating had worn off from tumbling and the cases split.

The sticking is caused by rough cylinder walls. I have three .22 LR S&W revolvers that would not fire more than 24 rounds. After 'finish reaming' the cylinders following the directions posted on this Forum, all the problems were gone.

 

[SWOOP01]

I would also look to starline for the brass. They have different options for 38 super. I also believe that the brass is expanding too much. The nickel does not expand as much.

 

[Nevada Ed]

If you do use the flex-hone.........

just make sure you don't do the front part of the cylinder and just the area where the case resides........

a little can go a long ways, so check each chamber hole, often.
Fill the finished chamber with paper, so it is not lapped any more.

Being taught by a pro on what to do and why is everything.
The old "Monkey see, monkey do" is ok if you know why you are doing things, plus the little tricks that are taught in working with weapons.

Good luck if you take this job on.

 

[jcelect]

Joe,
A flex-hone is what you need. Brownells has them for about $30.

That was the solution to all the 940s that stuck ​

Thanks for the advice! Went looking for a ceramic tool and found the hones! Just got an email from Brownells, mine is on its way! I will insure I stay away from the free bore
Thanks to all, jcelect​

 

[jjfitch]

Footnote: Nickel plated brass has a reputation for being brittle! It will not stand the same number of reloadings as brass. Nickel cases will split. Some will split after reloading just waiting to be shot!

Smiles,

 

[lrrifleman]

My suspicion would be a combination of the cartridge case dimensions and the chambers. What is the likelihood that the nickled brass is a thousandth or two wider than the brass cases? Opening up the chamber to accommodate the nickled brass may have opened the chamber enough to allow the brass case mouth to expand a little too much and grab at the chamber walls! Remember, plating adds some degree of thickness to a cartridge!

 

[dazlin]

I am not totally sure of my terminology, but I believe nickel has a lower coefficient of friction.

That's 'coefficient of expansion.' The nickle cases do not expand as much as brass cases, so they do not grip the cylinder walls as much. Thus they are easier to extract.

Sounds like a little gunsmithing is in order...