I recently picked up this 2nd model American revolver and it needs some work. Specifically, the V-spring for the top latch is missing. Does anyone know of a source for a replacement, or if this spring is interchangeable with any later models?
No. 3 2nd Model American parts source?
- Thread starter bigwagon
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mmaher94087
Member
I believe one would have to make the spring. If the broken spring is present, then use it as a template. Otherwise, it becomes a big trial and failure adventure. The spring is a simple 'V' type spring and only common to the 1st and 2nd model American and Russian.
opoefc
US Veteran
Most gunsmith's supply outlets carry inexpensive assortment kits of small V springs that can be fitted to work when older V springs have failed. You can also make small V springs out of old alarm clock main springs from the end of the coil where there's a bend. Ed
Ivan the Butcher
Member
If the spring is the same in the Russian models, Uberti made several thousand No.3 Russians and should still have parts.
Ivan
mmaher94087
Member
I hate Microsoft! I'll try again as the original went into cyber space and I didn't do it. Aargh.
Ok, here goes again: bigwagon o, penetrating oil and patience are your friends. Soak the screw from both ends for a week. When the relationship goes south, then apply heat from a heat gun (No open flames). Use a hollow ground (gunsmith) screwdriver that fits the screw slot snugly. Apply pressure to the right (tighten) and then left. If no movement, then apply more heat and penetrating oil. There is a shock value between hot metal and cold penetrating oil. As I've said a few times before: Wash, Rinse, Repeat. The parts probably have not moved in close to 150 years. What's another week or so?
The good is that the broken spring exists and can be duplicated.
Ok, here goes again: bigwagon o, penetrating oil and patience are your friends. Soak the screw from both ends for a week. When the relationship goes south, then apply heat from a heat gun (No open flames). Use a hollow ground (gunsmith) screwdriver that fits the screw slot snugly. Apply pressure to the right (tighten) and then left. If no movement, then apply more heat and penetrating oil. There is a shock value between hot metal and cold penetrating oil. As I've said a few times before: Wash, Rinse, Repeat. The parts probably have not moved in close to 150 years. What's another week or so?
The good is that the broken spring exists and can be duplicated.
You are in a good position here, since you can access both ends of the screw and try these various ways to free the stuck screw. You may know them all ways to remove a stuck screw, but in case you do not, try these in order.
Very first thing to try is to spray down the area inside and out with an aerosol penetrating oil. You can even turn the barrel assembly over and set the top strap in the oil overnight. Reapply several times then try to loosen the screw.
Very important that you find a screwdriver that fits the slot perfectly spanning the entire width of slot and a tight fit to the bottom of the slot. I have often reshaped old screwdrivers to perform this type of a task.
One can also put the barrel assembly in the oven at 300 degrees to help the oil penetrate better.
Next option is to heat the screw with a soldering iron. Do this a few times, letting the screw cool between sessions. It can often force the rust to break up around the screw. I have even put the part in a freezer and take it out after it has reached zero. Apply the heat to the screw until the oil smokes. Immediately try to turn the screw.
Next option is to try and upset the threads. Place the frame in a padded vise and take a screwdriver, placing it in the slot. Using a hammer give the screw a few blows and try turning it out.
Last resort for me is to make a hardwood jig that will hold a screwdriver in a position that allows you to tighten the screwdriver against the top-strap. This allow for the most leverage available on the screw by preventing the screwdriver from slipping out of the groove. With the frame tightly secured, try to turn the screwdriver that is forced into the slot. One can also use vice grips on the screwdriver to get more leverage. This will only break the screw free, but you will have to take everything out of the vise to fully remove the screw.
With these options, I have only had to drill out one screw in the last many years, so good luck with your adventure.
Very first thing to try is to spray down the area inside and out with an aerosol penetrating oil. You can even turn the barrel assembly over and set the top strap in the oil overnight. Reapply several times then try to loosen the screw.
Very important that you find a screwdriver that fits the slot perfectly spanning the entire width of slot and a tight fit to the bottom of the slot. I have often reshaped old screwdrivers to perform this type of a task.
One can also put the barrel assembly in the oven at 300 degrees to help the oil penetrate better.
Next option is to heat the screw with a soldering iron. Do this a few times, letting the screw cool between sessions. It can often force the rust to break up around the screw. I have even put the part in a freezer and take it out after it has reached zero. Apply the heat to the screw until the oil smokes. Immediately try to turn the screw.
Next option is to try and upset the threads. Place the frame in a padded vise and take a screwdriver, placing it in the slot. Using a hammer give the screw a few blows and try turning it out.
Last resort for me is to make a hardwood jig that will hold a screwdriver in a position that allows you to tighten the screwdriver against the top-strap. This allow for the most leverage available on the screw by preventing the screwdriver from slipping out of the groove. With the frame tightly secured, try to turn the screwdriver that is forced into the slot. One can also use vice grips on the screwdriver to get more leverage. This will only break the screw free, but you will have to take everything out of the vise to fully remove the screw.
With these options, I have only had to drill out one screw in the last many years, so good luck with your adventure.
mmaher94087
Member
bigwagon, you might contact Chris Hirsch @ [email protected] to see if he can help.
What he said ^^^^^^^!!!
Chris Hirsch works ONLY on antiques, knows S&W's inside out, upside down, and backwards----and is a WIZARD!!!
Ralph Tremaine
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Here's a long-overdue update. I just got this back from Chris today. He made a new hand spring, replaced the broken V-spring in the latch and cleaned up a few screw heads. I also had him rebuild the full cock hammer notch, so it now functions properly and has good timing. It looks great and was worth the wait. I'm actually thinking about taking it to Tulsa in April to put on our table. I am on the hunt for a decent Schofield, so I may need to move this one along to generate the necessary funds!
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mmaher94087
Member
Excellent! It's nice to know that Chris H. could help. Especially recutting the hammer sears. I know it wasn't cheap, but his work is spot on. Thank you for the update.
Now that I've had this pistol back in hand for the first time in nearly 2 years, I've been reacquainting myself with it and discovered something interesting. I had previously noticed this small mark stamped into the bottom of the grip that looks like either a proof or property mark. It appears to be a U-shaped character followed by the letters R and E. Last night I was leafing through my copy of Pate's American Models book and noticed a photo of a pistol on page 263 with serial number 28347 and the same mark. Turns out this is probably one of the 500 American models purchased by Argentina in 1873. Mystery solved, perhaps. I should probably letter it to confirm.
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