Noob Idiot at work

huang

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I have been reading this forum and I saw that every once and a while you should remove the cylinder and clean it real good! I think to myself I've never done that, and today is the day. My PC627 was shooting so well yesterday at the range I figured I'd treat her extra good.

Well, following directions I did get it apart, and even got it back together once, but found the the cylinder did not cycle so I had to disassemble it again. That was when the trouble started! I found that if I slightly pulled the trigger the bottom of the side plate would go down. I guess I went too far. I can't move the trigger more than 1/8" now and no way is the side plate going down. Is it something simple or do I have to find a gunsmith. San Diego is not know for an abundance of competent revolver smiths.

Ric
 
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How far did you take it apart?

In order to get the cylinder out you only have to remove the sideplate screw near the barrel end of the frame. The screw is different from the other sideplate screws so don't mix them up.

If you took the sideplate off, do a search on the proper way to remove and install.
 
It should be something simple, but it also sounds like you took the sideplate off, or at least loosened all of the screws enough to allow some stuff to move internally.
It sounds like you probably turned the gun over while all of the sideplate screws were loose and jarred the safety bar loose or out of it's 'groove'. It's a simple fix.
There is a picture showing the internals at that location on this site, although you will probably need to search for it. (Maybe someone else knows where it is and will chime in here.)
You will need to take the sideplate completely off in order to fix the problem. I would try to explain how to do it, but a picture is worth a thousand words.
 
Yes I misunderstood and removed the whole sideplate.
 
Did you remove the "Hand" from the trigger group?
I read the your cylinder wouldn't cycle afterwards?
It may need to be retentioned by the hand spring?

Good Luck!!
Gary
 
Yes I misunderstood and removed the whole sideplate.

make sure you don't pry on the sideplate. Take the screws out, turn the gun horizontal with the sideplate UP and tap the gun's frame (where the grips go) sharply with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. The plate should pop loose. If the safety bar is a problem, you can reposition it or drop it in a drawer. It's a redundant safety in my opinion, but some people freak out at the idea of removing it.
 
I was very careful not to pry at the plate. I know it is something stupid!!!
 
If the safety bar is a problem, you can reposition it or drop it in a drawer. It's a redundant safety in my opinion, but some people freak out at the idea of removing it.

?????? Unless you want it to go off if dropped...... Is that what you're after???? Thank you, but I prefer to have it in place and working as intended.......
 
Did you remove the "Hand" from the trigger group?
I read the your cylinder wouldn't cycle afterwards?
It may need to be retentioned by the hand spring?

Good Luck!!
Gary

Yes all the problems seem to lie in the hand (no pun intended) I had no idea what a hand was until I found this "http://gunmanuals.net/Manuals/s&w_66.pdf" There does not seem to be a spring holding it
 
?????? Unless you want it to go off if dropped...... Is that what you're after???? Thank you, but I prefer to have it in place and working as intended.......
If you know how the rebound slide worked, you would know a SW revolver can't go off when dropped unless you happen to drop it backwards so that it lands exactly on the hammer spur, against a hard surface whith enough force to break the hammer internally allowing it to strike the firing pin with enough force to ignite.

The odds of that happening are less than winning the lottery.

But, like I said, some people freak out without the rattle bar so it's owner's choice. I have one in my defense gun to lawyer proof it, all the comp guns do not.
 
Thanks to all those who helped or offered help. The gun is up an running again. I had pulled the hand out and therefore removed it from it's tensioning spring. I brought it to Discount Gun Mart here in San Diego and the gunsmith generously repaired it for me.

Ric
 
If you know how the rebound slide worked, you would know a SW revolver can't go off when dropped unless you happen to drop it backwards so that it lands exactly on the hammer spur, against a hard surface whith enough force to break the hammer internally allowing it to strike the firing pin with enough force to ignite.

The odds of that happening are less than winning the lottery.

But, like I said, some people freak out without the rattle bar so it's owner's choice. I have one in my defense gun to lawyer proof it, all the comp guns do not.

You have obviously never met my friend, Murphy. Allow me to introduce him to you. He seems to have the most awful luck and if something can go wrong, it will...

Glad you have more faith than the rest of us and I hope that faith is rewarded. However, I definetly wouldn't go around giving gunsmithing advice like that to anyone, especially someone that sounds like he/she is new to the internal parts and function of a gun.
 
I know Murphy. He's that statistician who said, "If there's a 50-50 chance of something going wrong, nine times out of 10 it will."

And I know the feeling you talked about. The first time I took my K-38 apart, it wouldn't work when I got it back together. Don't know why I thought the hand had to come out; I guess I thought it looked like you couldn't get the hammer out with the hand still in place. At any rate I found some pictures on the internet about the hand spring and after fishing around with a dental pick for 20 minutes finally got it back in place and under tension. After that the gun cycled fine.

David Wilson
 
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