my thoughts exactly. that looks like some nasty ammo.
reminds me of some filthy 8mm mil-surp stuff we used to shoot back in the day when it was pennys per round. Stuff stunk to high hell but went bang every time
Not my favorite aspect of stainless.
- Thread starter Skunkhome
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my thoughts exactly. that looks like some nasty ammo.
reminds me of some filthy 8mm mil-surp stuff we used to shoot back in the day when it was pennys per round. Stuff stunk to high hell but went bang every time
litenlarry
Member
my thoughts exactly. that looks like some nasty ammo.
reminds me of some filthy 8mm mil-surp stuff we used to shoot back in the day when it was pennys per round. Stuff stunk to high hell but went bang every time
My 686's and 629 have never looked that nasty from a range visit..Maybe the head space is off, seems like a lot of flashing around the forcing cone...
mike from st pete
Member
What powder are you loading with? I'd change out from whatever it is you are using. I'd have to shoot 100 rounds of lead with Unique to get that filthy.
Well, it's gonna happen. I shoot several stainless revolvers and I keep a rag with me to wipe it down every few cylinders. To clean it, I just use some Hoppe's #9 on a rag. As one gentleman suggested; "...there's this ole' fashioned thing called 'elbow grease' that works wonders..."
Where can I buy a bottle of elbow grease? Does it work as well as Tetra Lube?
Invictus357
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Stainless allows me to make sure I can get every speck of dirt off.
It's almost not a chore cleaning them.
I used to use Mpro-7 but went back to Hoppes no.9.
Just not the same cleaning guns without that smell.
It's almost not a chore cleaning them.
I used to use Mpro-7 but went back to Hoppes no.9.
Just not the same cleaning guns without that smell.
DonD
Member
Hate to say it but I sprayed my SP101, GP100 and two S&W .500 Mags with WD40, let them sit for 140 minutes and scrubbed them. Didn't do much at all, nearly as stained as before.
I'll stick with lead away cloths when I want to make them pretty. Don
Many years ago I used toothpaste on my stainless revolvers, with a soft tooth brush. It sounds dumb dumb but it took the burn marks off. It is a mild abrasive when it comes down to it. I had a model 64 & a model 66 that cleaned up well, sorry to say those revolvers are long gone, wish I kept them!
Well, isn't 100 a few. Btw: it's 700x and yes it is smutty powder but nowadays you shoot whatever you have rather than what you wish you had.
Chairman Kaga
Member
If you reload, try some Vihtavouri N320 over a Berrys plated.
A few hundred rounds of that doesn't get the gun anywhere near as dirty as your picture.
Now ,when I load lead wadcutters over Bullseye, it is a different story. Then, a few cylinders make my gun and hand look like I was digging in a coal mine.
A few hundred rounds of that doesn't get the gun anywhere near as dirty as your picture.
Now ,when I load lead wadcutters over Bullseye, it is a different story. Then, a few cylinders make my gun and hand look like I was digging in a coal mine.
oberon
Member
It's just dirt.
A little mung & crud sorta lends 'em character, doncha think?
A little mung & crud sorta lends 'em character, doncha think?
My first and so far only stainless gun my 629. I like to keep it looking clean too. So far, the stuff outside the cyl just wipes off or takes a little alcohol on a patch. The tougher stuff, like the black on the face of the cyl comes off with a little rubbing from a Midway lead remover cloth.
I tried the foaming bore cleaner and brass brush that gets my AK gas pistons clean as a whistle, but it didn't make a dent in the stuff on the front, but the lead remover cloth did wonders. YMMV
Scott
I tried the foaming bore cleaner and brass brush that gets my AK gas pistons clean as a whistle, but it didn't make a dent in the stuff on the front, but the lead remover cloth did wonders. YMMV
Scott
BoulderTroll
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You lost me on this one. I've had many carbon guns, and no rust issues with any. On the other hand, I've had rust problems on all three stainless revolvers I've had (two bead blasted/ satin, one polished). If the guns get rust on them, does it really matter how the carbon originally came to be on the gun? That seems like splitting hairs. Besides, my understanding was that all "stainless" steels have varying levels of carbon in them, so not all of it would be from tool residue? I'm not a metallurgist, but I'm not following what you're saying.
Carbon has nothing to do with rust. Rust is one of several forms of iron oxide. Carbon steels are steels where carbon is the major alloying element for the iron. Tool steels and stainless steels have other elements, like vanadium, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, chromium and the list goes on. Stainless steels are steels that have at least 11% chromium. Different alloys have other things in it as well. Carbon steels rust so easy because the oxide that forms flakes off because of its larger volume, where the stainless steels will be harder to rust because the oxide that forms on the chromium doesn't flake off, much like aluminum's oxides.
Stainless can be passivated to remove as much reactable iron from the surface as possible, the same way a properly a blued gun will react as much surface iron as possible, preventing rust. If a buffing wheel thats been used with carbon steel, or a plain steel wire wheel, is used to buff a stainless part, some of that iron can be deposited on top of the stainless, and cause problems with rust, even disrupting the surface of the stainless because of the rust's intrusion into the stainless' grain structure.
Scott
Stainless can be passivated to remove as much reactable iron from the surface as possible, the same way a properly a blued gun will react as much surface iron as possible, preventing rust. If a buffing wheel thats been used with carbon steel, or a plain steel wire wheel, is used to buff a stainless part, some of that iron can be deposited on top of the stainless, and cause problems with rust, even disrupting the surface of the stainless because of the rust's intrusion into the stainless' grain structure.
Scott
BoulderTroll
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Thanks for the explanation of carbon vs. iron, Scott. For your second paragraph you explained it pretty much the same as Engineer1911 did. I got the general idea of what he was explaining. I guess my point was more that "stainless steel" absolutely does rust, and in my own personal experience, it has rusted worse than my firearms made of carbon steels, with various surface treatments and finishes. I think in pretty simple terms, and if the stainless gun is rusting because of residual iron on the surface, or the stainless alloy itself is rusting, the bottom line is my stainless guns still rust. The explanations are interesting to learn, but they don't change the end result.
papajohn428
Member
My pet 38 load is about 4 grains of WST with a plated 158-HP. Velocity is 800-850 fps depending on the gun, but the best part is that I can shoot upwards of 800 rounds before the gun is gunky enough to "need" cleaning. Since I typically shoot 200 rounds a week, that's a month between cleanings.
Yes, I'm lazy......and proud. My cleaning routine involves wiping solvent all over the frame with a Q-tip, dropping the cylinder and crane in a pickle jar full of Hoppe's and letting it soak for a day. Everything just wipes off after that.
Yes, I'm lazy......and proud. My cleaning routine involves wiping solvent all over the frame with a Q-tip, dropping the cylinder and crane in a pickle jar full of Hoppe's and letting it soak for a day. Everything just wipes off after that.
Haven't seen much of any sort of pistol powder in months. I did find some BE last month which is my old standby. Havent converted back to it yet.
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