Backlighting
Member
Are there key places on a revolver where one should place some oil on?
Oil & revolvers
- Thread starter Backlighting
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Anything that moves.
DocB
Member
Actually, some experts say no lubricant at all. The parts are made with such precision there is no space or need for oil.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Those particular experts probably need their oil changed. Those parts are not made to that level of precision. So there is plenty of space and need for oil.
Joe Hohmann
Member
Err to the "under-oiling" side. Over-oiling is a magnet for dirt and gunk.
Under oil is definitely the rule. On mine I put one drop on the yoke, then open and close it three or for times and wipe it dry. Then one drop down the ejector rod, operate it a few times, them wipe it dry. Both of these processes leave a small amount of residual oil in place, just enough to do the job without attracting crud. Then I cock it and run one drop down into the cuts down the leading edge of the hammer. Many people will tell you that even this is excessive and they could be right. That being said, it works for me.
Alk8944
US Veteran
BALONEY!!!!
Watches work with closer tolerances than any type of firearm. Ask any watchmaker how well a mechanical watch would work, and for how long, if no oil was used.
Watchdog
Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2013
- Messages
- 12,510
- Reaction score
- 32,351
ContinentalOp
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 6,315
- Reaction score
- 12,813
Everybody has their own routine. I agree that revolvers don't require a lot of lube. I lube mine every range session or every 1-2 months, whichever comes first.
My routine, in case you're interested:
One drop where the yoke meets the frame, work the yoke open and closed a few times.
One drop at the front of the cylinder between the cylinder and shaft, rotate the cylinder a few times (a needle applicator works best here).
One drop where the end of the extractor rod mates with the underlug, work the cylinder open and closed a few times.
One drop on the end of the extractor rod that mates with the cylinder bolt, then wipe off.
One drop on each side of the trigger while holding the gun upside down, let capillary action draw the lube in, then cycle the action a few times (I have an enclosed hammer Centennial, one could do the same on either side of the hammer on exposed/shrouded hammer guns).
I wipe off any excess.
This method works for me.
My routine, in case you're interested:
One drop where the yoke meets the frame, work the yoke open and closed a few times.
One drop at the front of the cylinder between the cylinder and shaft, rotate the cylinder a few times (a needle applicator works best here).
One drop where the end of the extractor rod mates with the underlug, work the cylinder open and closed a few times.
One drop on the end of the extractor rod that mates with the cylinder bolt, then wipe off.
One drop on each side of the trigger while holding the gun upside down, let capillary action draw the lube in, then cycle the action a few times (I have an enclosed hammer Centennial, one could do the same on either side of the hammer on exposed/shrouded hammer guns).
I wipe off any excess.
This method works for me.
Big Cholla
Member
Dregs of My Fading Memory
I was forced to take two each 3 credit hour courses in Metalurgy while in College. Those were the hardest courses I took. I have managed to forget most everything I was taught, BUT one little thing jumped to mind when I read DocB's report of "no lube between precision surfaces". I refreshed my memory this evening and found when all else is equal that the more precision the surface finish is on two alike material surfaces the MORE OR BETTER lubricant that is required to prevent molecular bonding and the resulting increase in friction. In fact when two such surfaces are finished to the Nth degree oil is no longer enough lubricant to prevent such bonding. What is indicated is the use of fine graphite.
If in fact our S&W revolver parts were finished to such a fine surface as alluded to, we couldn't get by with a mere oil. We would have to be using oil/graphite or even pure graphite. The problem with pure graphite is that is a dust. That dust doesn't stay around long. It leaves the surfaces that we want it to lube.
This reminds me of a story: While shooting IPSC in Denver, CO I became acquainted with a fellow competitor that was a mechanical engineer/technician supervisor in a major mechanical and chemical engineering test lab. He had access to world class testing equipment, machinists' surface grinders, optical measuring devices and so on. He tried to do his own buildup of Colt M 1911 competition guns. They never ran right. The trigger pulls would be very light and then change to noticably erratic. His guns ran dry of lube quickly. He asked me to come to his work bench and look over a couple of his "Builds". I was amazed at the precision ground rails both on the slide and the frame. His fit of trigger to sear showed near 100% contact all the way across the two mating surfaces. I ask about what I was seeing and he laughed about having a couple of million $ worth of equipment with which to work. I told him about the problem of two surfaces moving past each other and their "molecular attraction" to one another. I also told him about how hard his surface finishes were making it for those surfaces to keep lubricant between them. I told him that 'He had too good of equipment to work with for his own good." Us poor pistolsmiths that were working by hand with hard Arkansas stones and a head mounted magnifying visor could only get a so-so job, but that was exactly what was needed given the lubrications we had to work with.
I was forced to take two each 3 credit hour courses in Metalurgy while in College. Those were the hardest courses I took. I have managed to forget most everything I was taught, BUT one little thing jumped to mind when I read DocB's report of "no lube between precision surfaces". I refreshed my memory this evening and found when all else is equal that the more precision the surface finish is on two alike material surfaces the MORE OR BETTER lubricant that is required to prevent molecular bonding and the resulting increase in friction. In fact when two such surfaces are finished to the Nth degree oil is no longer enough lubricant to prevent such bonding. What is indicated is the use of fine graphite.
If in fact our S&W revolver parts were finished to such a fine surface as alluded to, we couldn't get by with a mere oil. We would have to be using oil/graphite or even pure graphite. The problem with pure graphite is that is a dust. That dust doesn't stay around long. It leaves the surfaces that we want it to lube.
This reminds me of a story: While shooting IPSC in Denver, CO I became acquainted with a fellow competitor that was a mechanical engineer/technician supervisor in a major mechanical and chemical engineering test lab. He had access to world class testing equipment, machinists' surface grinders, optical measuring devices and so on. He tried to do his own buildup of Colt M 1911 competition guns. They never ran right. The trigger pulls would be very light and then change to noticably erratic. His guns ran dry of lube quickly. He asked me to come to his work bench and look over a couple of his "Builds". I was amazed at the precision ground rails both on the slide and the frame. His fit of trigger to sear showed near 100% contact all the way across the two mating surfaces. I ask about what I was seeing and he laughed about having a couple of million $ worth of equipment with which to work. I told him about the problem of two surfaces moving past each other and their "molecular attraction" to one another. I also told him about how hard his surface finishes were making it for those surfaces to keep lubricant between them. I told him that 'He had too good of equipment to work with for his own good." Us poor pistolsmiths that were working by hand with hard Arkansas stones and a head mounted magnifying visor could only get a so-so job, but that was exactly what was needed given the lubrications we had to work with.
Last edited:
Big Cholla
Member
General Guidelines
An old rule of thumb among mechanics and engineers is; if parts rotate, oil them; and if parts slide against each other grease them. IMHO, this works wonderfully as a guide for our S&W revolvers.
Remove the grips/stocks. Remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame. Pull the yoke out of the cylinder axis. Starting with a clean handgun, using a light wt. oil of your choice put a drop of oil on the locking plunger under the barrel. Put a drop down the cylinder stop. Put a couple of drops on the outer barrel of the yoke. Extend the extractor from the cylinder and put a drop on that shaft at the grooved spot. Push the cylinder release forward to allow the cocking of the hammer. Put two small sized drops in on each side of the hammer. Use less if you do not have compressed air. Now, blow compressed air into all of those spots and wipe off the excess of oil that is forced out. Put a little dab of grease on the tip of the cylinder yoke retaining screw Put your grips back on and you are good to go.
Now IMHO, if you are proficient in removing the side plate and the internal parts I would change the lubing method only to remove the rebound slide and lube the three contact sides with a very thin wipe of a good gun grease like "Rig's Universal". I finish that by wiping the rebound spring with those greasy fingers. While you have the side plate off put a drop of the light oil on the hammer pivot, the trigger pivot and the cylinder stop pivot. If you are not comfortable in going inside your revolver you might take it to a pistolsmith every couple of years for a good cleaning and lubrication internally. ...
Second Now IMHO, Most S&W revolvers have great mating surfaces of such design that they will run 'dry' for many a round down range. For less than competition use most of them will run for their entire life with just a little good oil blown down thru the hammer opening. Have a revolver with an enclosed hammer? Just blow in that oil thru any opening you can see that leads to the internals. Also, blow out the excess and wipe it off. That is the primary reason that I advise taking off the grips because most grips don't suffer excess oil or grease well over the long run.
An old rule of thumb among mechanics and engineers is; if parts rotate, oil them; and if parts slide against each other grease them. IMHO, this works wonderfully as a guide for our S&W revolvers.
Remove the grips/stocks. Remove the cylinder and yoke from the frame. Pull the yoke out of the cylinder axis. Starting with a clean handgun, using a light wt. oil of your choice put a drop of oil on the locking plunger under the barrel. Put a drop down the cylinder stop. Put a couple of drops on the outer barrel of the yoke. Extend the extractor from the cylinder and put a drop on that shaft at the grooved spot. Push the cylinder release forward to allow the cocking of the hammer. Put two small sized drops in on each side of the hammer. Use less if you do not have compressed air. Now, blow compressed air into all of those spots and wipe off the excess of oil that is forced out. Put a little dab of grease on the tip of the cylinder yoke retaining screw Put your grips back on and you are good to go.
Now IMHO, if you are proficient in removing the side plate and the internal parts I would change the lubing method only to remove the rebound slide and lube the three contact sides with a very thin wipe of a good gun grease like "Rig's Universal". I finish that by wiping the rebound spring with those greasy fingers. While you have the side plate off put a drop of the light oil on the hammer pivot, the trigger pivot and the cylinder stop pivot. If you are not comfortable in going inside your revolver you might take it to a pistolsmith every couple of years for a good cleaning and lubrication internally. ...
Second Now IMHO, Most S&W revolvers have great mating surfaces of such design that they will run 'dry' for many a round down range. For less than competition use most of them will run for their entire life with just a little good oil blown down thru the hammer opening. Have a revolver with an enclosed hammer? Just blow in that oil thru any opening you can see that leads to the internals. Also, blow out the excess and wipe it off. That is the primary reason that I advise taking off the grips because most grips don't suffer excess oil or grease well over the long run.
ContinentalOp
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 6,315
- Reaction score
- 12,813
I didn't mention this, but I also remove the grips from my revolvers when cleaning/lubing them.
ContinentalOp
Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2009
- Messages
- 6,315
- Reaction score
- 12,813
The only time I've ever heard the recommendation to not use lube is in extremely cold weather environments as it could affect the lube in the gun, causing it to gum up and seize, IIRC. I don't know how valid that is nowadays with the modern lubes available.
nicky4968
Member
Not an expert, but I understand some moving parts on satellites and such are gold plated, because there are no lubricants that stand up to such a harsh environment as exists out there between planets.
Pocchr
US Veteran
My motto is: "Just a Dab will do It" for revolvers. Pistols is a dab or two more. Long guns such as the AR platform is different.
oldiesradio1560
Member
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2015
- Messages
- 299
- Reaction score
- 272
I just spray my Model 640 in all the mentioned areas with Rem Oil about every 10 days.
ridgewalker
Member
After cleaning my revolvers, I wipe a light coat of oil on every thing. Incidentally I use M Pro 7. I start with a clean patch with some oil on it but not dripping. I place this patch down into the area in front of the cocked hammer and move it around to lightly coat this area with oil. Then I take the same patch and swab the area behind and in front of the trigger. Then the same patch wipes the main spring and the area around it. Then I wipe every exterior surface with the oily patch. Now I use a clean rag to remove as much oil as I can. This has seemed to work well for me. I believe a little oil works its way into the action with this method. It also leaves the gun clean .
Last edited:
Don't forget to put a SMALL drop on the hand after you clean it.
Post #7 (above) is how we were trained to maintain our issued revolvers back in the late '60s and I've followed that ever since. I clean after every range trip and use lube very lightly. My 1968 Colt Cobra, Model 38 flat latch and nickle Model 37 (early '80s) are all still running fine so I guess it works.
