Opinions please- WW-II Walther P-38

I have my dad's Luger. We shot it when I was a kid maybe last time around 1965. It hasn't been shot since. It get's cleaned and oiled maybe twice a year. I will put 7 rounds through it my first day of retirement, or the day I win the Powerball, go home, clean and oil it, and put it back in the safe.

That's why I have quite a few other things to shoot, you know everyday shooting.

My $,02
 
Becareful with the original grips also. The material is an early plastic and is brittle from age now. It chips and cracks very easily.
Any damage greatly devalues the grips and the pistol they are on.
Just a set of original Wartime P38 grips can run around $200 and finding the correct set w/ mfg markings ect is very difficult.
The late War metal grips are even more.

Lots of repros around too. They usually sell for $50 and under. Some are very convincing. Some so much so that they are sold as originals.

Many that still use their War-time P38's replace the fragile original grips with repro grips for shooting sessions.

Plus many use Post War P1 magazines ($20 item) instead of the Wartime mags ($75/$100) for shooting.
 
I have only one, a 1943 Walther. Has seen better days, bore is pitted. Shoots fine and feels good in my hand. If I had to rely on it "In Harm's Way" I would feel confident. Got mine at a good price, the safety was "broken". Turns out it was the firing pin that was broken. A $5.00 replacement, about a half hour's work to install. Not an expert by any stretch, I think a 1944 made one would be fine, I think their quality really went down hill in 1945.
 
If it was mine I'd probably fire a a magazine through it every May 8th in memory of my dad. However I'd look for a P1 if I wanted to shoot a pistol in that configuration on a regular basis.
 
I also have my Dad's WWII P38 bringback..It is a AC44 ( Walther) All numbers match as does the magazine..
I also ran across another P38 and snatched it up, it is a BYF43 ( Mauser)..Those who have WWII P38's might like this info..
http://www.pistole38.nl/tech/P38ProductionDates.pdf

DSC00204-1_zps58eae057.jpg
 
I found a better explaination of how the war time P38's are serialized..maybe this makes better sense..

WWII coded Walther and Mauser P-38 pistols will also have a production year stamped on the slide. This is two digits. A Walther would be marked "ac 43" as example.

WWII P-38's were made in 10,000 gun "blocks". Each block was given a block letter code in addition to the serial number.
The first block made in January of the year would have the serial number and markings:
ac 43 0001.
The block would run up to 9999.
At that point the numbers would start over at 0001 but an "a" was added: 0001 a.
At 9999 a, the block would change to 0001 b, and so on.

This is important, since there will be MANY P-38 pistols with the SAME serial number.
What identifies individual guns, is the makers code, the year made, the serial number AND the block letter.
 
I found a better explaination of how the war time P38's are serialized..maybe this makes better sense..

WWII coded Walther and Mauser P-38 pistols will also have a production year stamped on the slide. This is two digits. A Walther would be marked "ac 43" as example.

WWII P-38's were made in 10,000 gun "blocks". Each block was given a block letter code in addition to the serial number.
The first block made in January of the year would have the serial number and markings:
ac 43 0001.
The block would run up to 9999.
At that point the numbers would start over at 0001 but an "a" was added: 0001 a.
At 9999 a, the block would change to 0001 b, and so on.

This is important, since there will be MANY P-38 pistols with the SAME serial number.
What identifies individual guns, is the makers code, the year made, the serial number AND the block letter.


I knew that, but thanks for posting it. Very useful info!
 
The P38 forum hosted by Orv Reichert, was such a great source of information, I wish I had paid better attention or had the ability to absorb all the knowledge he had gathered..
The forum is no longer, as Orv passed away 01-23-2013.

Man I miss that forum......RIP Orv...
 
I have a 1944 vet bring back with matching holster, but I don't shoot it. Instead, I married the thicker and stronger slide (1.5mm) from a P1 to a P.38 ac steel frame. The parts are relatively cheap. I decided to have mine refinished and added wood grips. It's fun to shot and I don't have to worry about breaking it which can occasionally happen to surplus P.38's.

 
I have a 1944 vet bring back with matching holster, but I don't shoot it. Instead, I married the thicker and stronger slide (1.5mm) from a P1 to a P.38 ac steel frame. The parts are relatively cheap. I decided to have mine refinished and added wood grips. It's fun to shot and I don't have to worry about breaking it which can occasionally happen to surplus P.38's.


Definately a hybrid..Looks cool...
 
I had a '42 BYF. You should replace recoil and FP springs. Starting in '44 shortcuts were taken in production. My gun was full of Eagle over Swastika proof marks meaning it was tested to pressures of %20 over standard. If your gun is sans proof marks you may want to be a little careful.
 
I also have my Dad's WWII P38 bringback..It is a AC44 ( Walther) All numbers match as does the magazine..
I also ran across another P38 and snatched it up, it is a BYF43 ( Mauser)..Those who have WWII P38's might like this info..
http://www.pistole38.nl/tech/P38ProductionDates.pdf

DSC00204-1_zps58eae057.jpg

Great pair. The P-38 stolen from me 14 years ago-not recovered yet) was a Nov 41 BYF--a VERY rare puppy. The chart shown in the link started them in 42 when in fact about 1,500 were made in 41 but only in Nov and Dec-most in Dec..
 
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I bought one about 1960 with the holster and both mags. I can't remember who made it. I didn't like the cartridge but I really liked the gun and I kept it for 6 or 8 yrs. Thanks for making me think of the gun again. Larry
 
The CYQ's are very well made guns and collectors are staring to give them their deserved recognition.
Yours looks like a very nice example.
God bless your father and all the other vets who gave to insure our freedom.
 
I had a '42 BYF. You should replace recoil and FP springs. Starting in '44 shortcuts were taken in production. My gun was full of Eagle over Swastika proof marks meaning it was tested to pressures of %20 over standard. If your gun is sans proof marks you may want to be a little careful.

Mine does indeed have the three stamps, JcMack, meaning it was test fired and passed three phases of tests. The first is a swastika over wings, the second is the Wehrmacht eagle, and the third marking is ornate but too tiny to make out without magnification, all on the right side of the slide.

~~

Once again, I'd like to say thanks to all for the thoughtful and reasoned replies. I've learned lots- a little on my own, and a lot as a result of this thread.

:) One of the things that pleases me is the fact that nobody has called me a dumb*** or schooled me on how foolish my question was. I smile as I write this, but it happens.

I think I have a shooter on my hands, and I'm mulling over the decision on whether to do so, or to let it rest. And I now know that if I want a similar pistol, the P-1's are readily available out there.
 
One of the things that pleases me is the fact that nobody has called me a dumb*** or schooled me on how foolish my question was. I smile as I write this, but it happens.

I don't think I've ever seen anyone called a dumb*** on this forum, or sharply criticized for an honest question.

That's why this has been my only gun forum for the last year. Saw way too much belittling and condescension on the others.

I really envy you that fine pistol!
 
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Mine does indeed have the three stamps, JcMack, meaning it was test fired and passed three phases of tests. The first is a swastika over wings, the second is the Wehrmacht eagle, and the third marking is ornate but too tiny to make out without magnification, all on the right side of the slide.

And here I go again preachin to the choir :o
 
Great pistol. Mine is a newer one (~1979ish) but shoots nice. It has the thicker barrel and pin to reinforce it. You can tell by the serrations in front of the safety also it's newer and reinforced. The older ones had serrations only behind the safety. Plus the grips are plastic and different from the WWII versions. But I still like it, shoots very well.

From what I've been able to dig up it was sent to the German military but never made it out of the warehouse. Not assigned to any soldier.



 

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