Parts for a S&W 38 Short Safety Hammerless 4th model

[akc47]

Guys, my dad left me this old "Lemon Squeezer" and the cylinder stop is worn to the point that it won't even catch at all. Other than that the gun works fine. Any ideas on where to find a cylinder stop for that gun? In the pic it is the one on the bottom if that helps any. The gun on the top works perfectly but is a 32 S&W 3rd model I think.
Thanks

 

[gmborkovic]

First off, grips off and blast with cleaner or soak in the magic formula.
Just be gentle taking the grips off, pls. You may have alot of gunk from pocket carry.

 

[akc47]

I have had it disassembled, checked and cleaned by a qualified local gunsmith. He said everything but the cylinder stop is working properly. He said the cylinder stop wasn't broke, just worn down by age and use. That is what he said, I have no idea, lol

 

[glowe]

First, do what Mike says to make sure the cylinder stop is not just stuck or dirty. If not, give us a serial number, so anyone who might have parts can match it up with your era or production. If you are thinking of replacing the cylinder stop, you should be able to take off the sideplate to get to the stop to make sure if it is stuck. Removing the stocks and soaking it in a mixture of acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid for a couple of days might do the trick.

The image you supplied looks like the Safety is in fine nickel condition. I notice the image is from 2010, was the revolver working at that time or has it always needed parts? The revolver looks to be in much too good of condition to have a worn cylinder stop???

Lastly, the caliber is simply 38 S&W, with no Short.

 

[akc47]

Thanks for the help everyone.
Serial Number is 138184
My father died in 2000 and neither gun has been fired since then. That is why I used the old pic, they just sit in the safe. The cylinder stop hasn't worked for as long as I can remember (40-50 years). The 32 S&W is in awesome condition and perfect working order. The 38 has been refinished I think. I'm not sure but the S&W logo on the gun doesn't seem to be as deep and crisp as on the 32, that is my only reasoning for saying it has been refinished at some point. So early in its life it might have been used some or a lot? A gunsmith says the stop is worn down. I hope he knows what he is talking about. He cleaned and lubricated it and it still didn't work.

 

[JSR III]

I am not a gun smith and don't even play one on TV. In my limited experience playing around with older guns I have seen and read a lot of stories about weak or broken springs.

Is it possible that the stop is activated into the stop position by a spring that has lost its power???????

I know that as I age things do not work as they once did so just a random thought.

 

[mmaher94087]

I can only add that I believe it was refinished. Without the revolver disassembled so as to see the parts; we can only speculate: Weak or broken spring; yes. Bent cylinder stop; yes. Gunk in the cylinder stop notch; yes. Replating buildup in the slot for the cylinder stop affecting the operation; most likely. Plating on the cylinder stop; possible cause.

Pull the revolver apart and look at these areas. I feel that your headache is caused by excess plating or plating on parts that never had plating from the factory causing an interference fit that will hang-up the operation. Good luck.

 

[opoefc]

I would agree with Mike's observations & suggestions. I disagree with the gunsmith that told you the cylinder stop was worn. Very unlikely that the gun has been fired enough to wear down the cylinder stop and not show a lot of wear in other places. Ed.

 

[akc47]

Before I take it apart myself, is there anywhere I can download a parts diagram so I will know what I'm looking for and more importantly, how to get it back together?

Are there any specific questions I should ask the gunsmith that had it apart to help me move forward. I can call him tomorrow if that would help.

Also, are there gunsmiths on here that specialize in this type of old gun that I could send it too?

 

[JSR III]

Use your cell phone camera and take lots of photos as you remove each part. Besides that's why Al Gore invented cell phones in the first place.

 

[mnrivrat]

If after you do some more checking you end up needing a cylinder stop I should have one in my parts stuff. I tend to agree however that the stop should not be worn out . PM me if you need one and I will see what I have.

I can also send you a break down drawing for the gun if you need one.

Keith

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Numrich (gunpartscorp.com) has a parts layout for the safety hammerless. You can identify the parts with this but it doesn't show how they fit together.

 

[akc47]

Thanks very much for the parts diagram. That should help a lot. And if I can definitely determine the problem I will be back for needed parts. Thanks for all the help

 

[nutsforsmiths]

I purchased a 38 top break a couple of years ago (from member opoefc as a matter of fact!) and it came without a cylinder stop. I called Jack First and they actually make cylinder stops for Smith top breaks. It needed to be fitted, but it works fine.

 

[S&WsRsweet]

Thanks very much for the parts diagram. That should help a lot. And if I can definitely determine the problem I will be back for needed parts. Thanks for all the help

I would like to weigh in on something about this that I have learned the hard way before I found this forum . There are very few working gunsmiths today that truly understand the workings and intricacies involved in any DA revolver but especially the older ones .My advice is buy the proper tools and take the time to learn this firearm and how to work on it yourself ,the satisfaction of that is almost as enjoyable as the shooting and you are in the right place to start.

 

[akc47]

Thanks for the advice, but I am very much an idiot when it come to mechanical things. I can change the oil in my car but that is about it. I tried to work on two guns in my life (more than just cleaning) and had to pay someone to put both back together. That is why in one of my above posts I asked if there was a "qualified" gunsmith on here for that type of gun. I would rather pay to have it done right than pay someone to mess it up worse or me mess it up worse. My other option I guess is sell it, but I hate to do that since my dad loved this little gun. But it bugs me that it doesn't work everytime I open the vault and see it laying there. I would have to learn too much to do this myself and then buy the right tools. Then, I would be afraid to even pull the trigger to see if I did it right. LOL. Not sure what I will do. Keep the ideas rolling.

 

[JSR III]

I am sure that there is someone here on the forum that you could send it to and have it looked at. No different than sending it to a gunsmith but some folks her know S&W's better than gunsmiths.

 

[rog8732]

To your very first question; "where to" on parts.

"Jack First" in Rapid City S D.
They now have a web site that may or not show your S&W because it's just now a few months in the making, but, if there has ever been a more knowledgeable group of people to talk to about older gun parts I have yet to come across them.

I almost know they have most anything you need for that little Smith, and with a proper gun ID on your part,(( year, series, S/N )), just a word description of the wanted parts will be all you need.

 

[akc47]

Does he repair guns or just supply the needed parts?

 

[mnrivrat]

"Does he repair guns or just supply the needed parts?"

I believe they are a parts supplier only . By the way - I would not consider selling it if I were you. First of all you will be real lucky to get $100 for it as is. Then there is the family history tie which may not mean much to you now, but it may in the future. Or to your kids or other relatives.