bimmerland
Member
Just picked up a 686 3" from my lgs. What parts are available to upgrade for a lighter trigger pull. I found a rebound spring for my 625jm but can't find anything yet for my new 686. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
Parts upgrade for 686 3"
- Thread starter bimmerland
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C Islander
Member
My favorite trigger "upgrade" is a few thousand rounds down range.
ridgewalker
Member
Check this out:
Springs for SMITH & WESSON Revolvers
Springs for SMITH & WESSON Revolvers
Kernel Crittenden
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
L & N-frames use the same trigger, so if you like your M625's rebound spring, you can put the same one in your M686.
bigfreakinrevolver
Member
I had Greenes gun shop in oak harbor wa. Do mine and it is sweet!
OP
bimmerland
Member
Thanks for the info. I had bought several kits from Wolff for my 625jm so now I have a bunch of rebound springs and a revised hammer spring. Will install these after and teardown and a good polish job.
OP
bimmerland
Member
Mainly range work and home defense. Did wind up polishing a lot of the internals and swapping out the stock rebound spring with an 11# also installed a wolff reduced power hammer spring that didn't work well in my 625jm but seems to have given me about a 8.5# DA pull that's very crisp and no gritty feeling. If you have some more suggestions I would greatly appreciate your input. Thanks
Based on this post, immediate top suggestion is you run a lot of different ammo at the range, the bulk of it being your chosen defense ammo, before making the 686 a house gun.
Wolff specifically states that defense guns should not use their reduced power mainspring because of the risk of failed ignition; if you insist on going against the manufacturer's suggestion, best make quite sure the primers will pop reliably and often, and recheck regularly because the low power springs can lose their tension faster than regular springs with use.
Rick_A
Member
I don't do springs unless it is a target gun only...and there's nothing like that left in my inventory.
A reduced rebound spring makes the trigger return stroke less positive and can really slow or tie up DA shooting, and the reduced mainspring can be problematic for hard primers or even a dirty gun.
On the smoothing and polishing folks like to do, I've never had one rough enough to need it.
Most of the "my old so and so revolver is so much smoother than this durn new one" is because one has decades of use.
I let them wear in naturally. Practice is the key to good DA shooting. A competition trigger is good on a competition only gun.
A reduced rebound spring makes the trigger return stroke less positive and can really slow or tie up DA shooting, and the reduced mainspring can be problematic for hard primers or even a dirty gun.
On the smoothing and polishing folks like to do, I've never had one rough enough to need it.
Most of the "my old so and so revolver is so much smoother than this durn new one" is because one has decades of use.
I let them wear in naturally. Practice is the key to good DA shooting. A competition trigger is good on a competition only gun.
OP
bimmerland
Member
Thanks for the input. I ran over 100 rounds of my reloads which use a very hard CCI primer with no light hits. I should have also mentioned that I have more than one gun in my nightstand the second one being bone stock. I plan to do more exhaustive testing of the gun before I deem it 100% reliable. My polishing job is done to reduce the range time to get the gun to my operational standards. Much more testing will follow. One other thing to mention even though to many it may be a mute point but as the firearm is a revolver if a light strike occurs one can just pull the trigger again on a new round. I forgot to mention that my home defense round is a hornady critical defense +P 38 special and has been my self defense ammo of choice for all my carry guns and through many rounds of this ammo in stock and upgraded firearms no light hits or ftf has ever occurred. I try and exercise due diligence with all my guns whether for range or for defensive purposes.
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