Picking a nickle S&W , pitfalls ?

I always said that I was not partial to nickel and then I picked this one up. With the right gun, nickel is not so bad. May even get another if the right one shows up.

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OP, speaking of corrosion, look under the grips if you can before you buy. Sometimes there are unpleasant surprises there -- not always.

Dang, I no sooner bail on a nickel 29-2 for a 629 because I'm too fussy over finish, and you guys start this thread.

What nickel has that stainless never will is an ethereal warm glow -- almost yellowish in tint. It's delicious. Nickel as an option always added to price in the books, but the guy from Denver is right about nickel being cheaper than blue in some areas, for reasons I don't get. A 4" blue 29-2 seems to beat nickel in auction prices.
 
I remember being fascinated with nickeled S&W revolvers when I was just a small kid. My grandmother showed me her house gun, an early nickeled M&P that had belonged to my deceased paternal grandfather. Also I remember going into a downtown Phoenix bank with my mother, and the bank guard (yes!) had a nickeled S&W in his holster. It just looked so...cool.

Today I have a number of nickeled Smiths; this Model 19 is one example. The first thing I look for is that the trigger and hammer will not be nickeled like the rest of the gun, and if you open it up, the ejector star will be blued rather than nickeled. Closer inspection will reveal the "N" mark as was previously posted.

Only one thing about the nickeled guns I hate. They are a rhymes-with-witch to photograph, particularly against a white background. The exposure and contrast level must be spot on. And then there is the reflection problem. The nickeled guns are small mirrors, and more than once I've caught my own reflection or the reflection of the camera and tripod in a photo. It takes practice and a lot of experimentation to do it right.

John

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Are the stocks ebony? They perfectly match the hammer & trigger in the pic!
 
I have only one Nickeled revolver - a 29-3. That was mainly because I got it at an extremely good price. I don't particularly like Nickel as a finish, but it has held up very well for me over the last 20+ years. I keep it waxed with Johnson's paste wax after every use, and that may have something to do with it.
 
Only one thing about the nickeled guns I hate. They are a rhymes-with-witch to photograph, particularly against a white background. The exposure and contrast level must be spot on. And then there is the reflection problem. It takes practice and a lot of experimentation to do it right.

You got that right. The one thing it REALLY takes is trust in the seller, and a good written description. I was almost standing on my head earlier to get a shot of my 29 that didn't 'lie' -- the recessed ceiling light that looks like a black speck on the cylinder ("No really, it's track lighting!"), the guns that look blued because they pick up something dark in the area. I'm convinced there's a skill to it, and I don't have it. A special angle, a natural light source -- whatever the right combination of photographic factors is, it's elusive.
 
I started out with stainless S&W revolvers, and eventually went the cycle, going nickel and then the blued ones I initially hated.

Now I absolutely love the blued specimens best, with nickel a close #2. Of course, in time who knows! Heck, I guess I love 'em all . . . and especially my nickel revolvers. They are the "show offs" of the bunch I guess!

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Right after getting the following revolver I took it to a match . . . and shot the fastest times of the day of any revolver or auto with it!!!
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All of 'em shoot well. Here's a M19 .357 from around '82, the 1950 M&P .38 Spl., and a Model 1903 in .32 S&W long from 1916 . . . all in original finishes.
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