besshoudini
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If you know some one that loads, ask them for to see there set up.
Please Help
- Thread starter Glenn R. McMannly
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The kit I carry in our RV is in a large Plano plastic ammo can. It contains...
1. Lee Hand Press
2. Die set
3. RCBS Little Dandy Powder measure plus a few rotors.
4. Lee Hand Prime tool with shell holders + Lee Ram Prime
5. Small digital scale (inexpensive Frankford Arsenal)
6. One plastic loading block
7. One pound of powder
8. A brick (1,000) of primers.
Options:
3. The little Dandy is not the cheapest option but it is extremely compact and is designed to operate as a hand-held device so you don't have to carry some mount for a powder measure. Dippers take up even less room. The powder measure is more convenient and more accurate than the dippers.
4. You can use a Lee Ram Prime instead which is cheaper and comes with the Hand Press kit, but the hand primer is far more convenient, faster, and you'll drop less primers. I carry both, the ram prime is a backup.
In addition, I think for .45 Colt I might carry a small can of Hornady One Shot case lube. Small reloading presses and big cases sometimes make resizing a bit more difficult than I like. Even with carbide dies. You don'r "need" it but you might want it.
Often I can fit some brass in the box too, but the bullets and brass are usually stored elsewhere. I take 200 loaded rounds with me, and reload them 100 at a time as I shoot them.
The Plano box I use has a small storage compartment in the lid. I store the extra Little Dandy rotors in there and some misc items like spare batteries for the scale, allen wrenches...
1. Lee Hand Press
2. Die set
3. RCBS Little Dandy Powder measure plus a few rotors.
4. Lee Hand Prime tool with shell holders + Lee Ram Prime
5. Small digital scale (inexpensive Frankford Arsenal)
6. One plastic loading block
7. One pound of powder
8. A brick (1,000) of primers.
Options:
3. The little Dandy is not the cheapest option but it is extremely compact and is designed to operate as a hand-held device so you don't have to carry some mount for a powder measure. Dippers take up even less room. The powder measure is more convenient and more accurate than the dippers.
4. You can use a Lee Ram Prime instead which is cheaper and comes with the Hand Press kit, but the hand primer is far more convenient, faster, and you'll drop less primers. I carry both, the ram prime is a backup.
In addition, I think for .45 Colt I might carry a small can of Hornady One Shot case lube. Small reloading presses and big cases sometimes make resizing a bit more difficult than I like. Even with carbide dies. You don'r "need" it but you might want it.
Often I can fit some brass in the box too, but the bullets and brass are usually stored elsewhere. I take 200 loaded rounds with me, and reload them 100 at a time as I shoot them.
The Plano box I use has a small storage compartment in the lid. I store the extra Little Dandy rotors in there and some misc items like spare batteries for the scale, allen wrenches...
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I like both....
I like both the idea of the Lee Hand Loader and a single-stage press. I have both (an RCBS Rockchucker). The rest of the outfit will be the same either way. I have also used Lee Hand Loaders and if you have a good mallet and an organized setup you load a round every 45 seconds or so. However, tapping on the primers SOMETIMES makes them go off. It's LOUD, but not unsafe if you have ear/eye protection.
I'm the master of cheap and small.
I have a $30 Frankford Arsenal digital scale. I have a bought loading block, but I've made a couple for the few cartridges I have that don't fit it. (Drill press, spade drill and piece of wood)
With the Lee Hand loaders, you don't even need a powder funnel, but it's essential UNLESS you load the powder through the die body on a press.
Using the Lee powder scoop is cheap and works great, but it helps to have a scale to check what each scoop (and your technique) is throwing. A little shake sideways levels powder right off. They throw a tad conservatively, so they can be used without verifying with a scale, but I like knowing what I'm doing.
I mounted my Rockchucker on a piece of 3/4" plywood. When it's not bolted to my workbench outside, a couple of C-clamps on my desk in the house works great.
Beside dies, you'll need the shell holders.
A pair of calipers is essential if you are working with cartridges that need to be precise on overall length, such as 9mm Luger. Cartridges like the .38 special are not critical on OAL.
If you use the Lee Hand Press, you will need a separate hand primer to prime cases. I've been using one of the Lee Auto primers for years.
You'll probably need some case prep tool or you can improvise. I have a Lee neck chamfer tool, primer pocket cleaner. Possibly a means to trim cases. I put the Lee trimmers on a my drill press, or a hand drill and it goes pretty quick. Oh, and you will need some case lube for resizing. I use Hornady One-shot or Imperial Wax for everything. A lube pad is useful, but I just use a folded up paper towel with aluminum foil underneath.
I'm sure it's been mentioned but a reloading manual with a good 'how to' section. I have a new and old Speer manual, the Lyman Relooading plus their cast manual, an old Sierra and several other older published sources. Also, the powder manufacturers websites have reloading data.
I started out cleaning cases in a bucket with Dawn dishsoap and water. Eventually you may want a tumber. I have the vibratory Lyman Turbo and it works great. (and media. Usually corncob or walnut)
Honestly, I'd compare buying most of this stuff from Lee rather than getting a 'kit' of any kinds. Their stuff is economical, works great and for the duty they pull, last a long time. Like my Lee case chamfer and primer pocket cleaner will probably last just about forever. A lot longer than I'll need them.
I like both the idea of the Lee Hand Loader and a single-stage press. I have both (an RCBS Rockchucker). The rest of the outfit will be the same either way. I have also used Lee Hand Loaders and if you have a good mallet and an organized setup you load a round every 45 seconds or so. However, tapping on the primers SOMETIMES makes them go off. It's LOUD, but not unsafe if you have ear/eye protection.
I'm the master of cheap and small.
I have a $30 Frankford Arsenal digital scale. I have a bought loading block, but I've made a couple for the few cartridges I have that don't fit it. (Drill press, spade drill and piece of wood)
With the Lee Hand loaders, you don't even need a powder funnel, but it's essential UNLESS you load the powder through the die body on a press.
Using the Lee powder scoop is cheap and works great, but it helps to have a scale to check what each scoop (and your technique) is throwing. A little shake sideways levels powder right off. They throw a tad conservatively, so they can be used without verifying with a scale, but I like knowing what I'm doing.
I mounted my Rockchucker on a piece of 3/4" plywood. When it's not bolted to my workbench outside, a couple of C-clamps on my desk in the house works great.
Beside dies, you'll need the shell holders.
A pair of calipers is essential if you are working with cartridges that need to be precise on overall length, such as 9mm Luger. Cartridges like the .38 special are not critical on OAL.
If you use the Lee Hand Press, you will need a separate hand primer to prime cases. I've been using one of the Lee Auto primers for years.
You'll probably need some case prep tool or you can improvise. I have a Lee neck chamfer tool, primer pocket cleaner. Possibly a means to trim cases. I put the Lee trimmers on a my drill press, or a hand drill and it goes pretty quick. Oh, and you will need some case lube for resizing. I use Hornady One-shot or Imperial Wax for everything. A lube pad is useful, but I just use a folded up paper towel with aluminum foil underneath.
I'm sure it's been mentioned but a reloading manual with a good 'how to' section. I have a new and old Speer manual, the Lyman Relooading plus their cast manual, an old Sierra and several other older published sources. Also, the powder manufacturers websites have reloading data.
I started out cleaning cases in a bucket with Dawn dishsoap and water. Eventually you may want a tumber. I have the vibratory Lyman Turbo and it works great. (and media. Usually corncob or walnut)
Honestly, I'd compare buying most of this stuff from Lee rather than getting a 'kit' of any kinds. Their stuff is economical, works great and for the duty they pull, last a long time. Like my Lee case chamfer and primer pocket cleaner will probably last just about forever. A lot longer than I'll need them.
I too started with a Lee Loader, about 1970-72. Simple and one of the best/easiest methods to learn reloading (straight sided handgun caerteidges are full length sized, bottle necked rifle cases are neck sized). I would suggest a beam scale to check dipped powder charges, but everything else is i]n the kit. I'm a K.I.S.S.type reloader and the first kit pictured has 6 items not necessary for early reloading and I definately do not recommend a progressive press as a first press. Lots of not too knowledgable "opinions" on Lee Loaders, but excelent, accurate and safe ammo can be produced with one. I still have 6 kits, and when I feel "retro" I'll get one out and reload a box or two of good ammo... Some say Lee Loaders are slow. But [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc[/ame]
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The only complaint I have with the Lee Loaders is it's just about impossible to get a uniform crimp. It's hard to tap it with the mallet the same every time.
I found a big washer that I could place over the case. With the case in the decapping chamber and the powder charged and bullet seated, I placed the washer down on the decapping chamber with the round placed through the hole in the washer. This acts as a "stop" for the crimp die as it comes down. I got a bit more crimp than I wanted but it worked much better. At least it was uniform. This was with the .38 Special Lee Loader. Other calibers may require more washers.
The other thing many of us have done for a compact bench is to mount it to a Black & Decker Workmate.
I found a big washer that I could place over the case. With the case in the decapping chamber and the powder charged and bullet seated, I placed the washer down on the decapping chamber with the round placed through the hole in the washer. This acts as a "stop" for the crimp die as it comes down. I got a bit more crimp than I wanted but it worked much better. At least it was uniform. This was with the .38 Special Lee Loader. Other calibers may require more washers.
The other thing many of us have done for a compact bench is to mount it to a Black & Decker Workmate.
Many bullet casting shops will sell you unlubed bullets if you ask.
DWalt
Member
You can use the LL several different ways. The video shows performing all operations on the same case sequentially, which is fine. I used more of a batch approach by depriming all cases first, then resizing all, then neck expanding all, etc. No right or wrong way, just whichever you are most comfortable with. I loaded thousands of 12 gauge trap and skeet shells with a LL and got very fast at it. But that was back in the paper case shotshell days. They were more easily loaded than plastic cases, but had a shorter life.
gwpercle
Member
To me ... the main objection of the Classic Lee Loader aka
"Whack-A-Mole" Loader is the Noise ... the hammering gets old quick and the wife tends to give me " The Look" when I use it inside ...
The Lee Hand Press is THE Answer ... trust me .
I would take the Hand Press and reload at work while sitting at my office desk ... no noise whatsoever and the wife approves of it .
I liked the Hand Press so much and used it in so many places , I bought another . One stays at home the other is in my portable reloading kit that goes with me .
I reload nine handgun cartridges - 32 auto to 45 colt and 30-30 with them ...and it does so easily ...I'm 75 and not that strong !
I'm telling you the Lee Hand Press has the Classic loader beat Seven Ways to Sunday and then some !
Gary
"Whack-A-Mole" Loader is the Noise ... the hammering gets old quick and the wife tends to give me " The Look" when I use it inside ...
The Lee Hand Press is THE Answer ... trust me .
I would take the Hand Press and reload at work while sitting at my office desk ... no noise whatsoever and the wife approves of it .
I liked the Hand Press so much and used it in so many places , I bought another . One stays at home the other is in my portable reloading kit that goes with me .
I reload nine handgun cartridges - 32 auto to 45 colt and 30-30 with them ...and it does so easily ...I'm 75 and not that strong !
I'm telling you the Lee Hand Press has the Classic loader beat Seven Ways to Sunday and then some !
Gary
venomballistics
Member
The Lee hand press is a neat piece of kit. I have one and it does have it's party tricks.
However, I much prefer some flavor of bench mounted press for the complete loading process.
However, I much prefer some flavor of bench mounted press for the complete loading process.
taz666
Member
Have to agree w/venom. Search for a inexpensive (good) single stage.
That's fine but....
The tools are ingeniously designed for the operations to be done without wasting any motions. It's mostly flipping the tools around with the case in it. Getting the case in to do one operation at a time, then putting it away (after powder charging it would be in a reloading block) and getting another case into the tool, is a lot of steps.
This guy takes really takes his time and gets a finished round in 45 seconds.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc[/ame]
The tools/process for pistol cartridges is slightly different. There is a case mouth belling tool and step.
The tools are ingeniously designed for the operations to be done without wasting any motions. It's mostly flipping the tools around with the case in it. Getting the case in to do one operation at a time, then putting it away (after powder charging it would be in a reloading block) and getting another case into the tool, is a lot of steps.
This guy takes really takes his time and gets a finished round in 45 seconds.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc[/ame]
The tools/process for pistol cartridges is slightly different. There is a case mouth belling tool and step.
If one cannot get consistent mallet strikes, Lee Loaders are often used with an arbor press too. BTDT for my Lee Loader batchloading...
K.I.S.S. Go to Ebay and look for everything you need. The biggest part of your reloading adventure will be the press. You can get a good Rock Chucker on Ebay for around $100. You can get everything else there except for powder, primers, brass, and bullets. Sounds like you have that covered. Dies are around $40 depending on what you want. I would stay away from Lee dies, soft aluminum. Scales and calipers you can get at Harbor Freight. You can also get cheap ones on Ebay.
DWalt
Member
I quit going to gun shows several years ago, but when I did, there were usually several vendors with tables full of used reloading tools and equipment at reasonable prices. I bought most of my die sets at gun shows, usually $10 or less per set. I was a sucker for buying die sets in calibers for which I had no guns just because they were cheap, thinking I might buy a gun some day in that caliber. I still have some of those orphan die sets. Like .280 Remington and 7.7 Jap.
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First, buy the current Lyman reloading manual. The front half is worth reading for instructions. Lyman also has a pistol (only) manual that may be more useful to you if you only reload pistol.
Second, though it costs more than the cheapest option, I recommend that you start with a single stage press — it will last you a lifetime — you will end up there anyway. This might be the RCBS Rockchucker or Lyman Victory press (brick outhouses), or Lyman Ideal press (a little cheaper) or Harrell’s Mag portable press (more expensive). There are others. You will have a quality tool that your grandchildren could use. Reloading will still be slow, but less stress with a bench mounted press. It’s worth it to get a quality single stage press. Even if it’s not the cheapest. I know it’s not what you asked. But buy good tools if you can afford them — even if they are used.
Third, I would recommend starting with RCBS carbide dies. They are not the cheapest but are worth it.
You can go cheap on other small tools, but the press and dies are the heart of reloading. Your revolver is good. It deserves them.
Second, though it costs more than the cheapest option, I recommend that you start with a single stage press — it will last you a lifetime — you will end up there anyway. This might be the RCBS Rockchucker or Lyman Victory press (brick outhouses), or Lyman Ideal press (a little cheaper) or Harrell’s Mag portable press (more expensive). There are others. You will have a quality tool that your grandchildren could use. Reloading will still be slow, but less stress with a bench mounted press. It’s worth it to get a quality single stage press. Even if it’s not the cheapest. I know it’s not what you asked. But buy good tools if you can afford them — even if they are used.
Third, I would recommend starting with RCBS carbide dies. They are not the cheapest but are worth it.
You can go cheap on other small tools, but the press and dies are the heart of reloading. Your revolver is good. It deserves them.
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Been using Lee dies since the early 80s. They are most definitely NOT made from aluminum but rather from steel. The locking rings are, but they are easily replaced for little cash.
DWalt
Member
Correct. Lee dies are made of steel like every other die manufacturer uses. I have never had cause to criticize their quality.
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