Markcuda
Member
Is the turm bullet shaving when you fire your 686 and you get lead in your face?
Please fill me in.
What could be the cause?
Please fill me in.
What could be the cause?
Please school me on bullet shaving.
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500 Magnum Nut
Member
All revolvers spit to a degree, it's the nature of the beast. To keep it to a minimum the air gap must be set to the lower spec of .004 inch.
Check the timing. (Use range rods to check)
The forcing cone could be leaded up and needs to be cleaned. (Use Lewis lead remover kit)
Check the timing. (Use range rods to check)
The forcing cone could be leaded up and needs to be cleaned. (Use Lewis lead remover kit)
valkyriekl
Member
Yes--Bullet Shaving or Lead Shaving or simply Shaving. Mis-alignment between the barrel and chamber would be the most likely culprit, though the forcing cone is supposed to account for that a bit.
Or the forcing cone could be leaded up enough that it isn't a "cone" anymore, so that ANY misalignment (no matter how small) between the bore and chamber would cause the bullet to hit the lead deposits in the forcing cone, causing bits of lead to fly off, bounce around the various surfaces on the gun, and fly back at the shooter (this is why I wear safety glasses at the range, even when shooting revolvers). I think this is what is happening to one of my 617s: it locks up tight enough that I think the FC should take care of any slight misalignments, but I've felt bits and pieces hit my face, and when I looked, the forcing cone seems to have a lot of lead built-up in it (I hardly ever clean the barrels of my revolvers), which could explain it.
Or the forcing cone could be leaded up enough that it isn't a "cone" anymore, so that ANY misalignment (no matter how small) between the bore and chamber would cause the bullet to hit the lead deposits in the forcing cone, causing bits of lead to fly off, bounce around the various surfaces on the gun, and fly back at the shooter (this is why I wear safety glasses at the range, even when shooting revolvers). I think this is what is happening to one of my 617s: it locks up tight enough that I think the FC should take care of any slight misalignments, but I've felt bits and pieces hit my face, and when I looked, the forcing cone seems to have a lot of lead built-up in it (I hardly ever clean the barrels of my revolvers), which could explain it.
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Markcuda
Member
Thank you.
When I open the cylinder and look at the barrel opening, on the right of the forcing cone/barrel, the metal is mushrooming into the opening. I hope I described it right.
What could this be?
Edit=we posted at the same time.
Maybe it is lead and not metal.
When I open the cylinder and look at the barrel opening, on the right of the forcing cone/barrel, the metal is mushrooming into the opening. I hope I described it right.
What could this be?
Edit=we posted at the same time.
Maybe it is lead and not metal.
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valkyriekl
Member
Markcuda said:
Probably lead or carbon build-up. The Lewis Lead Remover kit that 500 Magnum Nut mentioned should take care of that.
I should probably pick up one of these kits--I was looking at one pretty seriously when I was getting really bad leading with my 625, and then I realized that the load I was shooting through it was the cause: 3.1gr W231 behind a 185gr LSWC bullet was too soft, which meant that the bullet didn't obturate enough to seal the chamber on its way out, allowing gas to blow-by the bullet and vaporize some lead, which would deposit on the forcing cone and first half-inch of the rifling. Bumping up my load to a heavier charge (4.3gr AA#2) fixed that problem and I haven't seen much leading since.
OP
Markcuda
Member
Mine sure does not look like lead, it looks like the metal is being mushroomed/rolled over into the opening.
Using a paper clip, I can catch it on the edge.
Using a paper clip, I can catch it on the edge.
valkyriekl
Member
Using that paperclip and a bit of force, can you pop that metal off? Or etch into it? If so then it's probably lead (lead is a pretty soft metal).
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Markcuda
Member
I can not pop the metal off, it just does not look like lead build up.
valkyriekl
Member
Well, I'd see what a local gunsmith has to say about it, or if you have a chance to try a Lewis Lead Remover, see if it doesn't come out, before wondering whether the steel is starting to deform into the forcing cone.
The Lewis thing uses a soft(er) brass mesh to scrub out any lead/carbon deposits. The brass mesh is soft enough that it won't damage the forcing cone, but it's stiff enough to scrub out the softer lead. There's a well-known trick using a "Chore Boy" brass pad to do the same thing. A good solvent and maybe an over-night soak (I'm not sure how this is done) might help to break it up.
Another, usually NOT RECOMMENDED, way of dealing with leading is to shoot jacketted rounds after the lead rounds in an attempt to knock the lead out with the copper jacket. I don't recommend this, although I will say that I've tried it a few times and it's worked without any ill effects. Depending on the nature of the leading, however, I won't say that the idea will never cause any problems. Once I adjusted my loads, I didn't have any problems with leading and never felt the urge to try the jacketted-bullet-cleaning idea again.
What model are you experiencing this in, by the way?
You might have a roughly-cut forcing cone, although if the forcing cone is out-of-round as you say, then the problem probably isn't a roughtly-cut forcing cone.
The Lewis thing uses a soft(er) brass mesh to scrub out any lead/carbon deposits. The brass mesh is soft enough that it won't damage the forcing cone, but it's stiff enough to scrub out the softer lead. There's a well-known trick using a "Chore Boy" brass pad to do the same thing. A good solvent and maybe an over-night soak (I'm not sure how this is done) might help to break it up.
Another, usually NOT RECOMMENDED, way of dealing with leading is to shoot jacketted rounds after the lead rounds in an attempt to knock the lead out with the copper jacket. I don't recommend this, although I will say that I've tried it a few times and it's worked without any ill effects. Depending on the nature of the leading, however, I won't say that the idea will never cause any problems. Once I adjusted my loads, I didn't have any problems with leading and never felt the urge to try the jacketted-bullet-cleaning idea again.
What model are you experiencing this in, by the way?
You might have a roughly-cut forcing cone, although if the forcing cone is out-of-round as you say, then the problem probably isn't a roughtly-cut forcing cone.
500 Magnum Nut
Member
Sounds like you shoot lots of lead and not jacketed bullets. It's baked on crusty lead deposits. Order the Lewis kit.
OP
Markcuda
Member
The gun is a 686-4, 2.1/2 inch.
I never use lead bullets, only jacketed ones.
I never use lead bullets, only jacketed ones.
500 Magnum Nut
Member
I think it's dirty.
Ok, I cleaned a gun. This is a 66, but a 357 anyway.
You should see rifleing and the forcing cone should show machining marks (circular marks) incircling the bore. It's hard to show and I'm not much of a camera guy, try as I might....
Hope this helps
Ok, I cleaned a gun. This is a 66, but a 357 anyway.
You should see rifleing and the forcing cone should show machining marks (circular marks) incircling the bore. It's hard to show and I'm not much of a camera guy, try as I might....
Hope this helps
Last edited:
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Markcuda
Member
On your top picture, mine would show the metal curled over into the opening.
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