Possible Issues - 5" Model 27-2

[Moo Moo]

Late 2022, I purchased this 5" Model 27-2 purely as a shooter. At the time, it cost me approximately $480 USD here in Australia, so I assumed it may have some issues.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/691737-finally-arrived-5-model-27-2-a.html

When I took it to the range last weekend, I noticed some hesitance in the cylinder turning on two of the chambers when pulling the trigger. I happened in both double and single action. Researching similar posts, I've started with the most simplest suggestion and have dissembled this revolver and cleaned it.

I'm no expert and am just looking for thoughts about this revolver. I have yet to return to the range and test this revolver again. I did note that there was a very tight gap between the forcing cone and the chamber/cylinder. On two of the chambers, I could not see any light at all when shining a torch (what we call Flashlights) on the gap.

1. After Market Trigger and Hammer

2. Wrong Side-plate screw - These two look the same. Shouldn't there be a different one to hold the yoke in?

3. Has someone messed with the barrel? One side of the barrel pin appears to be in the "white". It appears someone has been trying to tap it out from the other side also.

4. What are these scratches on the inside of the frame?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks
Moo Moo

 

[Moo Moo]

Further photos.

Also, when I took out the Rebound Slide, there was no Trigger Stop rod inside the Rebound Spring. Is this right? I thought N Frames were meant to have these rods in.

From the previous Thread, it was identified that this 27-2 had the wrong Target Stocks on it for a 1975-76 year gun.

 

[Moo Moo]

More photos.

Also, it was acknowledge that there was issues with the Red Ramp front sight not being correct.

 

[steelslaver]

The only actual problem is the barrel to cylinder gap being to tight.
.
The scratches appear to be from a Bubba trying to replace the rebound slide, probably the same guy who polished the case hardening off the hammer and trigger.

Not all N frames came with the rod stop deal inside the rebound slide and on most of those that have them it is not the right length to to hat it was supposed to do anyway. Unless time is spend making one just long enough to allow release in single action and no more it is just a rattle in you gun IMHO

The face of the cylinder is not quite square and dragging on barrel. I have seen them off .001 to .002. Not all that uncommon. Some people think this can be caused by a bent yoke tube. While the gun may have a bent tube, that will not cause one portion of the cylinder to bind on barrel while the rest does not. The yoke is stationary once the cylinder is closed and the cylinder rotates around it and if the tube is out f line the cylinder turning on it is held out of line on all 6 chambers.

I would first make sure there is no hardened gunk or burrs under the extractor what so ever. Gunk there will cause the cylinder to be pressed forward. Then I would check end shake or play. With cylinder assembled and in place press it back hard and measure between barrel and cylinder face with a feeler gauge. As you cylinder is likely slightly out of square uses a spot that is not tight and mark it. Then press the cylinder hard forward and measure again. The difference is your end shake. Lets say you have .003 difference. You want some so cylinder turns freely .001 is perfect. You can get thin hardened shim washers that go between end of yoke tube and bottom of hole in cylinder. This will move your cylinder back .002 and MAY fix your drag problem

You could have a bent yoke tube. To check that you really need a tool that just slips in tube and has a tip that should perfectly hit the center pins lock up point in the center of recoil shield. This is used with the yoke mounted without the cylinder and will tell you if your yoke tube is aligned.

Oh, those 2 side plate screws should appear identical. But, one of them has been fitted (filed) so it does not bind in the groove in yoke pivot. The other one is often a bit long and when installed in yoke screw hole it will cause yoke to bind when opening and closing

Your yoke should not move forward to rear when closed. That is a function of the groove in its pivot and the screw tip it rides on. The very end of the pivot is called the button and it can get worn or slightly deformed. You are actually only concerned about the area right where the screw tip would be when yoke is closed. This ban be tightened up by lightly tapping that part of the button with a smooth faced hammer. A little tap can go a long ways here.

 

[BSA1]

You can measure the barrel/cylinder gap. Here we use a tool (shims) used for setting the gap on spark plugs. Measure the gap from both sides of the barrel. I once had a new revolver that new out of the box measured .003” from one side and only .001” on the other. It was a quick, easy fix for a gunsmith with the right tool.

One would not expect a old S&W to have the rear of the barrel to be uneven but you know that at least Bubba has a cousin living in your country.

 

[steelslaver]

I suspect a bit of a Bubba, the hammer and trigger being polished and the light marks inside the frame near the rear of rebound slide pin.

 

[Moo Moo]

Thanks a bunch of the advice.

So do you think that trigger and hammer are S&W factory parts with the Case-Colour hardening removed? I sort of assumed that they were non-factory.

 

[minconrevo]

Yes that's the case with the hammer & trigger. Ditto reshaping the trigger. I'll admit to reshaping a trigger myself, as it was done before the .312 smooth triggers and such became available. Some folks even jewel said parts; if it's theirs I guess they can.

 

[chief38]

Steelslaver has pretty much covered the bases. Just wanted to add that it appears the barrel pin has been removed an replaced (dents around it from what looks like a punch) - possible barrel swap?

The "Bubba" who put all those scratches on the inside of the frame has removed, played with and replaced the Rebound Slide and Spring quite a few times from what I can surmise as the inside of the Frame is pretty scratched up - never really seen anything quite like that before, sorry to say.

At least you bough the gun for what is now considered a very reasonable price ($480) and hopefully you should be able to get it back in fighting shape without too much additional expense.

I hope it shoot swell and you can enjoy it!

 

[steelslaver]

Chief 38 may well be right on the barrel replacement which would also explain the tight barrel to cylinder gap. That is a easy fix if you actual know how to use a file correctly which believe it or not most people do not.

 

[chief38]

Chief 38 may well be right on the barrel replacement which would also explain the tight barrel to cylinder gap. That is a easy fix if you actual know how to use a file correctly which believe it or not most people do not.

Perfectly stated Steelslaver! Gotta keep the file flat during the process. Go slow and measure with a feeler gauge often.

 

[stansdds]

We here at Bubba's Skool of Kitchun Table Gunsmithin is proud of the works our gradjiates does. We always use a hammer n nail to drive out tha pins and screw in the barrel reel tite. Ar trigger job technique calls for polishin everythin then put bak together using lots of greese. We also use screw drivers ta pry out and remove parts, but look like this gradjiate fergot ta use tha Dremel to polish out tha scratch marks.


Wonder how long the admins are going to let me continue to this Bubba school thing?

 

[chief38]

We here at Bubba's Skool of Kitchun Table Gunsmithin is proud of the works our gradjiates does. We always use a hammer n nail to drive out tha pins and screw in the barrel reel tite. Ar trigger job technique calls for polishin everythin then put bak together using lots of greese. We also use screw drivers ta pry out and remove parts, but look like this gradjiate fergot ta use tha Dremel to polish out tha scratch marks.


Wonder how long the admins are going to let me continue to this Bubba school thing?

Funny - all too true sometimes.

 

[Pine_Worker]

Chief 38 may well be right on the barrel replacement which would also explain the tight barrel to cylinder gap. That is a easy fix if you actual know how to use a file correctly which believe it or not most people do not.

My thoughts exactly!

 

[PeteC]

@Moo_Moo, take a look at the barrel pin and trigger (post#7) in my last thread, Bubba may have been a well-traveled fella!

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...ob-transplanted-rear-sight.html#post141675404

 

[pantannojack]

We here at Bubba's Skool of Kitchun Table Gunsmithin is proud of the works our gradjiates does. We always use a hammer n nail to drive out tha pins and screw in the barrel reel tite. Ar trigger job technique calls for polishin everythin then put bak together using lots of greese. We also use screw drivers ta pry out and remove parts, but look like this gradjiate fergot ta use tha Dremel to polish out tha scratch marks.


Wonder how long the admins are going to let me continue to this Bubba school thing?

Just don't talk "pole cat tickle"; They don't like that.

 

[PeteC]

...
Wonder how long the admins are going to let me continue to this Bubba school thing?

Oh no please, don't "cancel" Bubba School!
And now the question we have all wanted to ask, but were afraid to... Is Bubba a first name, or is the school family run?

 

[Retired W4]

One thing struck me in post #1, picture 1 and 2. The hand in picture 1 is in the proper position (under spring tension) while the hand in picture 2 is not.

Sumpin aint right wit dat puppy. From the kitchen table of Retired W4

 

[stansdds]

Oh no please, don't "cancel" Bubba School!
And now the question we have all wanted to ask, but were afraid to... Is Bubba a first name, or is the school family run?

Yes.