Power end shake shims

jtcarm

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I'm about to order some Power shims and was wondering if they could be stacked to get the desired gap. They come in .002 or .004 thickness. The specific gun I want to shim right now will probably need the .004, but they come in packs of 10 and it seems like the .002 would be more versatile if I need more in the future.
 
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I'm about to order some Power shims and was wondering if they could be stacked to get the desired gap. They come in .002 or .004 thickness. The specific gun I want to shim right now will probably need the .004, but they come in packs of 10 and it seems like the .002 would be more versatile if I need more in the future.

I think they are designed to be stacked if you need them. I have not talked to anyone at Power Custom in a LONG time, but they were always really friendly. I would call to make sure.

S&W did not and may not now use shims to fix end shake. I know there are folks on this forum who can chime in and correct me.

My preference is the factory fix for end shake, but that is just me. Also, don't ask me how they do it, as I am not sure I can give a good explanation. Lengthening something, I think. I just know they come back perfect, and you don't have little shims to lose if you disassemble the cylinder and its internals.
 
Well, now I'm not so sure what I need. There is clearly too much end play, but with the cylinder pulled all the way to the rear, I can barely fit a .008 gap gauge in the BC gap. I'm using a spark plug gauge & .008 is my smallest, I can't even begin to insert it with forward pressure on the cylinder. This is consistent on all 6 chambers.
 
Why are you thinking that .008 is too much BC gap? Maybe I'm not following you correctly, but I think .008 is right in the ballpark.

I think .008 is fine, but the fore/aft movement seems excessive.
 
I can barely fit a .008 gap gauge in the BC gap. I'm using a spark plug gauge & .008 is my smallest, I can't even begin to insert it with forward pressure on the cylinder.

If I understand you correctly and 0.008" is the thinnest feelers gage you have, make sure you buy the correct tool before you do anything. I have stacked the bushings successfully, but I could measure down to 0.001" resolution before I ever started.
 
jtcarm,

You need to get a set of FEELER GAGE BLADES down to .0005 or .001 as the smallest in the set, not a spark plug gage set.

You need to push the cylinder ALL THE WAY FORWARD towards the barrel and hold it while measuring with Feeler Gage.

Then HOLD THE CYLINDER all the way REARWARD and measure with a feeler between the barrel and the cylinder. WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?

You can use Shims to tighten the END SHAKE down to .001, using SHIMS will also increase the Barrel/Cylinder gap (.004/.006 is probably ideal as clearance is needed for heat expansion and carbon buildup, so the cylinder still rotates.

B/C gap gets too big and you will need the barrel SET BACK ONE THREAD. (Gun-Smith work)

B/C GAP and End Shake are not the same.

End Shake can also be adjusted BY STRETCHING THE YOKE,
that takes some tools and knowledge.

You should Get JERRY KUHLHAUSEN'S S&W Revolver Manual ($35) IT IS THE BIBLE!!!!!!
 
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