Pre model 10?

[Abflyboy]

LGS has a K-frame .38 spl that I'm looking at.

Serial number: K 295xxx, post war adjustable rear sight, no model number under yoke. LGS is trying to sell it as a model of 1905 M&P .38 but I'm pretty sure that it's a pre model 10.

Is there a difference? SCSW doesn't really lead me to a conclusion other than it is NOT a model 10 nor is it a model of 1905.

The cylinder catch is peened but the cylinder notches and frame look good. It has about .006-.008" end shake and has been reblued with a LOT of holster wear.

Is $500 too much for this? Also, any help with correct identification would be very appreciated.

It would be easy enough for me to fix the issues it has with the exception of the bluing, which I would send it to Smith and Wesson for that.

 

[jmace57]

No - it is not a pre-model 10. Chances are it is a pre Model 14 made in 1957, just before model numbers came out. Price seems a bit high based on the condition you describe.

Does it look sort of like this? Is it a 6" barrel or a 4"?

(This is a later Model 14)

 

[k22fan]

The K serial prefix was only used for post WW II adjustable sighted K frames. Model 10s are fixed sighted K frames. The term “Model of 1905” is used for both adjustable sighted and fixed sighted pre-WW II K frames. The former are called “Model of 1905 Targets.” “Pre-Model 10” is sloppily applied to all .38 special fixed sighted K frames made before S&W started stamping model numbers in 1957. Many collectors here prefer the term “pre-Model” only be used for revolvers made recently enough to be nearly identical to the earliest model number stamped version. You described a pre-Model 14 which the factory called a K 38 Masterpiece.

I don’t recall seeing a peened cylinder stop which I’m guessing is what you mean by “cylinder catch.” Cylinder stops don’t cost a lot. After their S&Ws developed end shake many owners filed off the back of the barrel so the cylinder would not drag. Then if the end shake is corrected the flash gap is excessive. That’s something to look for.

$500 is high for a holster worn reblued .38 Masterpiece that needs repairs.

 

[Abflyboy]

Thank you jmace57 and k22 fan. I forgot to add that it is a 4" barrel and the stocks appear to be original diamond targets that are very worn.

Pricewise, it seems that there are a lot of these "high mileage" older revolvers running around here lately and people are paying the asking price. Evidently not knowing that they aren't getting any sort of deal. But I suppose that compared to the price of a brand new pistol, it might not be a bad deal to some.

If I were to purchase it, repair the mechanical issues, and send it to S&W for a correct reblue, what would the value be? My intent would be to shoot it. A lot. As opposed to adding it to a collection of safe queens.

I'm not sure why this one is calling my name so much. I've walked away from many others like this without a second thought.

 

[bigwagon]

T
If it were to be purchased, repaired, and sent to S&W for a correct reblue, what would the value be?

Less than you'll have into it.

 

[arjay]

You could probably get 5 or 600 for it,but shipping and reblue from S&W will cost at least $300.