Preventing Rust in Storage

Sittinduck21

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I'm a fairly new gun owner. I bought my first gun in 2013 and until June/July of this year everything I've purchased has been a factory new firearm. So there are a still a lot of care/maintenance problems that I haven't encountered, yet. One of them is Pits/rust formation on guns that are stored in boxes.

A first gen M&P Compact has been sitting in the original blue plastic Smith & Wesson box with foam that it came in for about 8 or 9 months now. I've had it out briefly a few times in those months but it went back into the box straight away. Well, I took it out recently to look at it, and I've got tiny dark red dots appearing all over the rear sight. I've oiled it up and instead of putting it back in the foam I've put it in a cheap plastic ammo can from Walmart.

The reason I bring this up on this forum is that back in June I bought a blued 1975 S&W Model 19-3 off of gun broker and I've been storing it in another blue plastic S&W box (just like the M&P) that I got off of Amazon.

Was the spots of rust/pits that formed on the M&P because of the environment in the plastic box surrounded by foam? How should I store the 19-3 so that the same fate doesn't happen?
 
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If storing long term, those plastic boxes and foam are a death trap. Guns need to breath. The boxes trap in moisture and humidity that eventually lead to speckling and then rust (especially on blued guns).

I recommend using a product called Renaissance Wax on your model 19. You can coat and polish with the wax and then store it outside the box.
 
I am not an expert and others will come along to offer more advice, that hopefully I will learn from as well, but don't store in the foam lined boxes.

The foam absorbs moisture and the gun just lays there inside of that plastic box exposed to it.

I now have a safe and use desiccant to hold down on the moisture.

I also store my guns in the Bore Store products that reportedly help to hold down on the moisture.

Prior to having the safe I was storing my small collection at work and kept them in Bore Stores inside of an airtight seal container (like the plastic ammo boxes) with desiccant inside. Stored them in my locker.

Hope this helps some.
 
Back in 1968 a guy introduced me to a way to prevent rust. I use Kellogg's pure silicone #110. The Product comes in a red/gold/white can. Spray some on a piece of real lambswool, maybe 8" sq, work it into the wool, and then wipe the clean gun down. Why lambswool?? Because the fibers get into every nook and cranny of the gun. Some hardware stores carry the product in a 10 oz can labeled #110 or #105. Either is fine. Some stores carry it in a 4oz can that just says pure silicone. I have confirmed with the factory the 4oz can is #110. Kellogg's is made in Sandusky, Ohio. The can will say Kel-Tec on it

Retreat piece of wool on a regular basis. No need to soak wool.

Additionally, wipe your guns down every couple months.

I have done this for 50 years, and no rust, pitting, or freckles
 
All of my guns get covered in Remington oil then placed in Haliburton aluminum cases before going into the gun safe.As long as the cases are dry and moisture free you won't have any problem with long term storage.I once had me weapons stored for almost Six years without a problem.
 
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Back in 1968 a guy introduced me to a way to prevent rust. I use Kellogg's pure silicone #110. The Product comes in a red/gold/white can. Spray some on a piece of real lambswool, maybe 8" sq, work it into the wool, and then wipe the clean gun down. Why lambswool?? Because the fibers get into every nook and cranny of the gun. Some hardware stores carry the product in a 10 oz can labeled #110 or #105. Either is fine. Some stores carry it in a 4oz can that just says pure silicone. I have confirmed with the factory the 4oz can is #110. Kellogg's is made in Sandusky, Ohio. The can will say Kel-Tec on it

Retreat piece of wool on a regular basis. No need to soak wool.

Additionally, wipe your guns down every couple months.

I have done this for 50 years, and no rust, pitting, or freckles

Just looked it available on Amazon 10oz spray $11.40
 
I have used the foam-lined plastic boxes, BUT, instead of placing the gun in contact with the foam, I just wrap the gun in a piece of t-shirt material that's been liberally sprayed with silicone spray. Never had an issue.
'Course this requires a good wipe down, and I use whatever's handy nearby the safes - BreakFree/Ballistol/Lucas Gun Oil, etc.
Safes each have at least two silica desiccant devices inside.
And - I live in a place surrounded by saltwater and salt air.
So far, so good.
 
FWIW....

I clean and lube my guns and, for those going back into the safe, apply a coating of RenWax.

Then each goes into a silicone-treated sock.

I do this for both long and short guns and have not had any corrosion issues on blued or stainless pieces.

I also remove the stocks, apply RenWax to the grip frame and the inside of the stocks (the side that mates with the grip frame). I do this for both wood and rubber/synthetics. I DO NOT wipe off the RenWax from either surface and then re-attach the stocks. Then into the gun socks.
 
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I use VCI bags, (vapor corrosion inhibitor).....google is your friend. I also remove the grips, and store them separately.

This is long term storage for safe queens, and firearms that don't get used often.
 
With an air conditioned home the indoor humidity seems not a problem. I firmly believe that if you give the gun a careful & not too wet coating of an oil or wax (your choice) & place into a silicone gun sock, you are good for a while. (You do have a gun safe)? if not get one, Choose larger than you think you need DAMHIK. Gun shops also sell desiccant products, if you choose this be sure to get the color changing crystal type. Purple for dry & working, light blue, heat it up in the microwave to dry it out till purple again.
 
I have also had good luck with Renaissance Wax, mostly on edged weapons. I have had very good luck with the silicone impregnated sleeves (gun e sacks and similar). Of course a safe heater is a good way to go, or two or three large silica cannisters. Even an old wool sock is not too bad as it tends to wick moisture away and protect from minor scratching.
 
I use Ren Wax on the blued guns, then rub with a silicone cloth, then wrap the gun in S&W rust inhibitor paper, then into the safe on a rack. I use one of those dehumidifiers you plug into the wall from time to time to refresh the desiccant. Never had a problem.
 
Sittinduck21,

I have stored all my guns in those blue, foam-lined plastic boxes for 6-15 years and have never had a speck of rust form on any of them, blued or otherwise, with one exception which I'll explain in a moment. All of my guns are taken out and used periodically.

Here is what I've learned: before placing them in the box, both initially and after each use, they must be coated/wiped down with a product formulated as a protectant. Several such products have been mentioned already, and I've no doubt that they prevent rust just as the posters have said. I would just add the one I've used all this time, a product called Corrosion X, made by a company called Corrosion Technologies, out of Texas. This company's entire business is anti-corrosion products for various applications. Corrosion X has completely eliminated any worries about rust for me.

Here is the exception I mentioned earlier: Before learning about Corrosion X, as I recall, I had an incident similar to yours in which a blued rear sight showed a little rust after being in the box a short time. After wiping it with Corrosion X and leaving it set overnight, the rust completely disappeared. However I then recalled what I had done to foster the problem: I had left the box open with the foam liners exposed to the open air for awhile, and, as some posters have mentioned here, the foam absorbed the moisture in the air. Since that time I always keep the boxes closed whenever the guns are being used, whether it's at the range or at home. This has prevented the absorption mentioned.

Note: Corrosion X is touted as a complete gun care product, or "CLP"(clean, lubricate, protect), but that isn't accurate. I've found that whatever lubrication properties it might exhibit don't last; if used in the moving parts of the gun, it tends to get gummy after the gun is stored for awhile. Find a different oil/product to lubricate your guns. Also Corrosion X may have some cleaning capability, but it's not really a powder or copper solvent. But for rust prevention it's outstanding, in my experience.

Best wishes in finding a solution which works for you,
Andy
 
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I put RIG in the bore (and cylinder for revolvers), then just leave them on a shelf in the safe after wiping down all the outside surfaces. I also have a dehumidifier in the safe, specifically the Eva-dry E-500. I've had no issues with my blued guns.
 
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I have two S&W six shooters manufactured in the 1930 from my Dad that developed rust. I paid several hundred dollars for my gunsmith to a fantastic restoration job. I am storing them in a plastic case with the foam as previously mentioned. I will order some of the Kellogg's Pure Silicone spray from Amazon. If I start using an individual zippered pistol case instead of the foam case will that be a good solution against rust issues?
 
I have two S&W six shooters manufactured in the 1930 from my Dad that developed rust. I paid several hundred dollars for my gunsmith to a fantastic restoration job. I am storing them in a plastic case with the foam as previously mentioned. I will order some of the Kellogg's Pure Silicone spray from Amazon. If I start using an individual zippered pistol case instead of the foam case will that be a good solution against rust issues?

I believe so. I spray some in pistol rugs then wipe the gun down.

You could also treat the foam with some spray. Not too heavy
 
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