Primer with 2 marks, timing?

[Bill Lear]

Finally if you are doing that super slow motion carry up test or dragging a thumb while testing for carry up YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG. This methodology is all internet hogwash. The S&W revolver is a Combat Revolver and has clearances that insure that the gun will function properly after being dropped a pool of mud. As a result they will rely on Inertia to carry the cylinder into lock to small extent. Yeah they can be tuned to perfection for this but the downside of doing this will result in a cylinder stop with a tendency to jam if stop and notch aren't perfectly clean.

Thank you! Those monster X frame cylinders rely on a degree of rotational "quickness" in order to carry up reliably. Most I've checked will "slow rotation carry up" but there will be those that will stop shy. The difference is a thin as a coat of grease on the hand! I have an XVR460 which has an even heavier cylinder and from brand new it would fail to carry up unless vigorously cocked. I coated the hand with some Vaseline and the problem went away.

 

[__steve__]

Thank you! Those monster X frame cylinders rely on a degree of rotational "quickness" in order to carry up reliably. Most I've checked will "slow rotation carry up" but there will be those that will stop shy. The difference is a thin as a coat of grease on the hand! I have an XVR460 which has an even heavier cylinder and from brand new it would fail to carry up unless vigorously cocked. I coated the hand with some Vaseline and the problem went away.

This sounds like it won’t work, but I’m definitely going to try it. With inertia from a fast single or double action, the revolver does pass, but really smacks the cylinder stop harder than I would like. I do prefer DA, and on shots over 50 yards I am slowly pulling the trigger, slow enough to where inertia does not assist.
I’ll give this grease trick a try.

 

[steelslaver]

Peen the 2 ratchets that run the 2 offending chambers. With the cylinder out of yoke and laying on a rag, place a small flat faced punch on each and give the punch a rap with a small hammer. You just need to displace a bit of metal to the side the hand contacts. Doing as I instructed will swell the tooth sideways very slightly. It won't take much. Serious as a heart attach in the geriatrics ward. It will work way longer that some grease on the side of your hand. I have used this method on several older revolvers.

By the way a new ratchet should work in your cylinder. The X frames all use the odd arm method off alignment. The older pin style extractors would not interchange because the cylinder and extractor were match drilled for the pins.

 

[__steve__]

Peen the 2 ratchets that run the 2 offending chambers. With the cylinder out of yoke and laying on a rag, place a small flat faced punch on each and give the punch a rap with a small hammer. You just need to displace a bit of metal to the side the hand contacts. Doing as I instructed will swell the tooth sideways very slightly. It won't take much. Serious as a heart attach in the geriatrics ward. It will work way longer that some grease on the side of your hand. I have used this method on several older revolvers.

By the way a new ratchet should work in your cylinder. The X frames all use the odd arm method of alignment. The older pin style extractors would not interchange because the cylinder and extractor were match drilled for the pins.

Peening respective ratchet pads will probably eventually be done, once I am ready to do so. I did measure the pad with the caliper within 0.001” which is promising so I can measure changes.

Finding an extra extractor in case that fails, miserably, as backup is also on the list, but it is impossible to find one without purchasing an entire cylinder assembly, and new ones haven’t been cut yet, and doing so is beyond my skill and tool set.

Finding a used extractor for backup to peening would be my best option.

 

[steelslaver]

There are 500 cylinders are available at Midway right now. Just under $200, so not cheap. The show ratchets under $60 but out of stock

Peening will work. .001 should be enough. I have never measured them, but a good bump has been enough. I have set up a brand new unfit ratchet before. Not easy, but mostly just requires patience and keeping the filed surface 90 degrees to the face and maintaining the profile. File each tooth a couple strokes, assemble, try, file, You know when your close when trigger gets hard but does go. Only a stroke or 2 left to be good on that one. Once a tooth works mark it with a sharpie so you don't hit it anymore and keep working the others. I kept a good ratchet in front of me the whole time so I kept the profile of that portion of tooth correct

Another thing I have thought of but never tried is using say a 3/16" flat faced punch to peen near the top outside of the hand window slot. If one slightly displaced a slight inward bulge of metal there, it would cause the hand to be a bit farther in at the top of its stroke and engage the ratchet teeth a bit longer.

I would take my trigger out and check the width of hand (calipers)and window (feeler gauges) first to make sure you had a bit of room.

One of the great things about steel is its malleability.

 

[__steve__]

Thank you steelslaver