"Problem Solved" dry fire with snap caps

[skeetshooter]

I recently sold and sent a gun (S&W 60-10 3" .357) to a gentleman who upon receipt ran a 100 or so snap caps in dry fire and now he tells me that the gun is eating up the edges of the caps and in one instance pushed a cap into the cyl.
Does this sound like anything any of you have seen or heard about ?
I will take back the gun and refund his money if in fact this is a serious problem.
Comments and any help please.

 

[gboling]

The only problem was when he put snap caps in it. I do not understand why it is so difficult for people to understand that S&W revolvers are perfectly capable of being dry fired with NO consequences. When I was issued a model 14 the instructor insisted that we practice dry firing between range sessions. I have had it for 42 years now, and other than the finish, it is as good as new.

 

[skeetshooter]

Added pix

Yes, I understand the wisdom of foregoing the caps but none the less a problem exists.
Please note the pix I have added,,,what could cause this to happen.
Any answers from anyone ?

Here is a description of the occurence.

"It seems to be shaving the rim right where it sits on the cylinder and after you dry fire it shaves more and more until there is no rim left. It is more pronounced on some of the cylinder holes than others. I have never ever seen this before on any revolver that I own. I am sending a picture so you can see what i mean. Left to right, there is a little shaving on the 1st, more on the second, by the third there is no rim left."

 

[adwjc]

The problem is the soft aluminum snap caps.

Have the new owner replicate the action using spent (brass) shells. I'm betting you'll see no damage whatsoever.

 

[158Grain]

I agree they are most likely from the aluminum on the caps. They look like A-Zooms..I think. I tried A-Zooms in my 642 and had to replace them after about 2-300 pulls

 

[ogilvyspecial]

If you go to many of the sites that sell the aluminum A-Zoom Snap Caps you should
find reviews about the rims breaking off. From all of the reviews I've read about
this happening it would be no surprise, to me, if I heard of the A-Zoom's doing this.

With that said, I have yet to have any of my A-Zooms do this, but, on the rare
times I use them, I do check to see if the rims might not be "letting go."

 

[tomcatt51]

none the less a problem exists.

I guess you can say that but the problem is the snap caps not the gun. The A-Zoom snap caps wear out. Pure and simple. In revolvers they wear out fastest in the guns with the heaviest hammer falls. If you have done a "trigger job" and lightened the hammer and reduced the mainspring tension they last longer but still wear out.

 

[rodell]

It is one of the reasons that aluminum cases aren't considered "reloadable".

 

[skeetshooter]

Many thanks to all of you. Using spent cases proved that the problem was the caps. The Forum's collective knowledge is unbeatable.

 

[TACC1]

The shooter might consider TIPTON snap caps. They were
what the LGS had in stock, maybe 10 years ago, and I'm
still using the same set. Good thing I switched to j-frames,
as I lost one somewhere. Different construction than A-ZOOM.
TACC1

 

[GLV]

The alloy used by AZoom is way too soft. I had problems with their 44 snap caps.

Say what you want--but the frame mounted firing pins do not like extensive dry fire, at least in my 44s and 45s.

 

[gboling]

Has there been any problem with the firing pin penetrating primers? If not there is not, I repeat, "is not" a problem with the gun.

 

[shawn mccarver]

The only problem was when he put snap caps in it. I do not understand why it is so difficult for people to understand that S&W revolvers are perfectly capable of being dry fired with NO consequences. When I was issued a model 14 the instructor insisted that we practice dry firing between range sessions. I have had it for 42 years now, and other than the finish, it is as good as new.

Why won't people trust S&W? The old pamphlet style owner's manual recommended dry firing. S&W's web site, at least the last time I checked, said dry firing was ok.

There ought to be threads on dry firing, +P, use of steel wool, burn rings on the end of the cylinder, mainspring strain screws, etc., so that we can move beyond these topics that have been beaten to death. I will give the benefit of the doubt and assume that the search feature on this Forum is down.

No, that's not it. I just checked and it works just fine. Hmmm.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Yes, I understand the wisdom of foregoing the caps but none the less a problem exists.
Please note the pix I have added,,,what could cause this to happen.
Any answers from anyone ?

Here is a description of the occurence.

"It seems to be shaving the rim right where it sits on the cylinder and after you dry fire it shaves more and more until there is no rim left. It is more pronounced on some of the cylinder holes than others. I have never ever seen this before on any revolver that I own. I am sending a picture so you can see what i mean. Left to right, there is a little shaving on the 1st, more on the second, by the third there is no rim left."

The problem, pure and simple, is a cheap "snap cap" not a defect in the revolver. I have not used snap caps in 44 years of shooting and dry firing S&W revolvers, and I have never had a single firing pin break. Ever.

I would ask the buyer if the owner's manual authorizes the use of these silly devices.

By the way, a snap cap for a revolver serves the same purpose as a full length guide rod in a 1911. Nothing. They are both solutions for non-existent problems.

 

[crofoot629]

Why won't people trust S&W? The old pamphlet style owner's manual recommended dry firing. S&W's web site, at least the last time I checked, said dry firing was ok.

There ought to be threads on dry firing, +P, use of steel wool, burn rings on the end of the cylinder, mainspring strain screws, etc., so that we can move beyond these topics that have been beaten to death. I will give the benefit of the doubt and assume that the search feature on this Forum is down.

No, that's not it. I just checked and it works just fine. Hmmm.

It's also one more variable to causing an ND.

Emory

 

[M2MikeGolf]

I think all modern firearms, S&W revolvers in particular should be fine with dry firing. However, I once had an original M1917 and it seemed to me that the hammer impacted some on the frame, it could have just been an old age thing, but I got a little nervous about dry firing without snap caps. I used the A-zooms and you can see tha the polymer get used up pretty quick, but is good for awhile at least. Perhaps if it gets hardened, it makes the impact on the rims more pronounced, not sure. I have a fifty year old Drilling, and a German gunsmith said it is imperative that you do not dry fire it on empty chambers as the firing pins are very difficult to replace. They are similar to frame mounted firing pins, however, the fit in a threaded sleeve so you can adjust the depth they strike, but are usually staked to keep from moving. I've opened a Drilling before, and it's art, but scary. So, I only use snap caps, A-zooms actually, and they aren't that cheap (16 gauge, .22 hornet and 7x57R). Can anyone suggest really good snap caps? For my old Drilling, I would be willing to get expensive. For my S&Ws, those A-zooms are fine and if they wear out, oh well.

 

[tomcatt51]

Say what you want--but the frame mounted firing pins do not like extensive dry fire

What are you basing this on? Are you experiencing a problem resulting from dry firing your revolver? Please enlighten us.

 

[GLV]

Based on

What are you basing this on? Are you experiencing a problem resulting from dry firing your revolver? Please enlighten us.

Broken firing pins on guns with frame mounted firing pins. One was a friends 629-5, and I think on my 25-14. Also on another one of my N frame guns, don't remember which one.

Look, I am just a dumb old guy, so I do not know why, but I do use snap caps on guns with frame mounted firing pins.

Others can do as they wish. I don't post to get into arguments.

 

[tomcatt51]

Most FMFP problems are from installing C&S extended firing pins. Breakage with the factory titanium firing pin happens but is fairly rare.

 

[fredg19]

Your buyer is nuts.... I have been through several sets of AZoom snap caps. And in every case and in at least 4 different guns they all ended up EXACTLY like the caps in the picture. Can't be avoided... I don't really know how many hits I could get before they broke off the rim, but I am thinking 800-1000, which can be done in just a few days sitting in the recliner watching TV.

I no longer bother with snap caps...